spudulike

The differences between the MS200T and 020T are: - 1) Fuel and oil caps - the tanks and crankcase have different cap connectors - the 020T threaded and the MS200t the flippy cap mechanism. 2) Carb on the 020 has the H&L screw closer together and no accelerator pump 3) The cylinder on the 020T has a single transfer each side of the cylinder, on the MS200T, it is split in two to avoid pressure stacking of fuel/air vapour. 4)Air box has an 020T logo and recoil cover has a oblong and not round decal. 5) The fuel tank breathers varied from a fibre insert, to a plug in one and then to a dual fuel line type on MS200Ts I think that is about it, all parts are interchangeable including the cylinder as stroke and piston are the same on both machines. The split transfer gives the MS200T a bit more zip on pickup!

Funny that, I got 6 months of tennis elbow from a McCulloch strimmer once - get better soon:thumbup:

I was pleased with them, the 357XPs are tried and tested, the 254Xp were first time but a fair bit on the table and it shows in the way the saw now picks up, kind of caught me out when it picked up so fast when I first fired it up - wasn't quite expecting that:thumbup: Will box them up and settle up over the weekend Tom. Cheers

Here we go, the big shoot out, in the red corner, a Husqvarna 357XP - ported using the normal methods listed earlier in this thread, in the blue corner, a Husqvarna 254XP giving up 5cc and a lot of age. Standard 357XP - 4.4HP, Standard 254XP - 3.9HP....just remember, my ported 357XPs keep up with the much later 560XPs:thumbup:............................... First vid cutting old seasoned oak, the second cutting dry poplar - the 254XP is just slower than the 357XP...by a half second! And yes, I know,,,they are PPE shorts:lol: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixP6tmwp5lY]Ported Husqvarna 357XP and 254XP cutting Oak - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPEPuEftDiM]Ported Husqvarna 357XP and 254XP cutting Poplar - YouTube[/ame]

Well, I am now there with the ported 357XP and 254 XP....anyone want to see how they compare for cutting speed?

Sounds like you are already there, either the metal part that fits to the spark plug is now exposed or the metal connector has been pulled out of the HT wire and if you get close to it, you get HT leakage giving a ZAP:thumbdown: Easy enough to fit a new one, go the other way through the HT cable with the spur on the connector and a little oil helps pulling the metal connector through the rubber cap.

Ahhh - nice one dad - does he want it ported, reckon I could get those batteries lasting longer:001_rolleyes:

Well, you can tell by the way I use my walk, I'm a Ryobi man, no time to talk. Oiler knackered and bar warm. Its been kicked around since it was bought. or Comin' to ya on a dusty road Good logs I got a truck load And when you service it you got something So don't worry cause I'm coming I'm a Ryobi man I'm a Ryobi man

Yup, thats the MS260 that was badly seized, gave the cylinder a good clean and a decent quality piston and was amazed to get 190psi out of it. Seemed to run pretty well and sounds like it has bedded in well, always good to get good feedback on saws I have done this sort of work on. Your old man (Tim) did work on my parents place back in the 80s:thumbup: Got to know Matty pretty well now - nice bloke!

No Rich, I thought you were a Husqvarna man:lol:

The drop of compression when warm is normal and 150psi cold is also pretty normal for a used saw. 150psi cold and fuelled is a pretty standard reading. The symptoms on not revving out sound like an air leak that is leaning down the saw too much so it can't rev out - possible manifold or even a scored piston - it is possible to get good compression on a lightly seized piston. The symptoms of holding on to revs when the throttle is closed sound like a crank seal letting air when the crank case is under vacuum - increased when the throttle is closed! the extra air tends to make the saw hold on to the revs when it should snap down to idle. Don't change anything - you have three toppers - swap a good carb and try again, prove it is either the carb or something else on the saw before spending out further on it.

Agree Barrie, had one in that was stalling on idle and generally playing up....broken clutch spring:001_rolleyes:

The ported 357XP is up and running, new clutch needle bearing, tank vent, clutch springs and rim drive. All sounds good, just needs a tach tune and a run through some wood. The ported 254XP also lives, fitted two new crank seals and finally got it airtight after also sealling a very slightly leaking decomp valve thread. The saw now has......a very interesting pickup, it was a little like an underground train before porting but now revs like a two stroke motorcross bike, need to get this tached and then a few cuts as well, early signs look good:thumbup:

No Worries, the time serts are pretty solid if put in correctly with a decent cut thread, should last well now!

Its gotta be done hasn't it, I havent fired my own saws up for months yet the log stores are pretty full now:blushing::lol:

I guess you are talking aftermarket parts here Rich or have you left a zero off for Stihl parts:001_rolleyes: You would be lucky to get a Stihl piston for 50 notes:lol:

Not seen moving carb screws before, the issue may be an air leak so do the vac and then the pressure check, you could try moving the handle and imulse about with the saw on the deck and see if the revs change as if the problem is with these components, doing this will change the revs. You could try swaping carbs with a good carb and see if the problem goes away. I have had similar issues and it is possibly a leaking welch plug or the accelerator pump if the vac and pressure tests come up fine.

From memory, one guy asked Brad what half a key width would give on advance and he quoted 10 degrees which one guy on here then took as a reasonable amount to advance the timing on his saw. The point I was making was that IMO, ten degrees may well cause some serious running issues - I think Brads reply may have been a bit "matter of fact" rather than giving a valid opinion on what degree advance would make a positive gain with this saw. Not wishing to cause issue with what you have said but that was where I was coming from in my post and not picking fault with Brads work:thumbup:

Sounds like you need to try a customers trimmer or long reach out ...to make sure it is working fine after a service of course:blushing: Stuff the loppers:lol:

Think it needs a muffler mod and a bit of distortion:lol:

Just shows why I get so busy, anyone who has their kit fixed by me gets the fault done free of charge if not sorted first time round, there are one or two exceptions to this but is generally the case if a full refurb doesn't work fully 100%! All dealers aren't the same and it is worth telling the dealer what you have found, it is sometimes damn difficult to sort intermittent issues without having a load of wood to cut or a field of undergrowth to strim down and if you don't tell them and give them the chance to redeem themselves, they can't sort your issues out!

Oh and don't get too hung up on security locks and latches - if someone wants to get in, they aint gonna lever out the door frame - knocking the glass in would be much easier:001_rolleyes:

You push them through the apperture from the inside accross the diagonal and then pull them back in to place. Don't see the issue, I tied a rope around some of my upstairs ones and the wife then carried them up the ladder on her back with me taking the weight.........and you may think I am joking:blushing::lol: It isn't too difficult, cut through the old frames, cut around the plaster and bang them out, make sure the frame goes in square, use the plastic spacers, don't use the rawl plug screws, use the self cutting torx ones and pre drill the hole with a long SDS masonary drill. Fill the gaps with foam - don't over do it and then when the glass goes in, understand "Heel and toe" the method the fitters use that makes the glass retain the frames squareness by using spacers in the correct corners. Simples.....well not too difficult if you are good at DIY - a cordless drill is good and make sure you measure up accurately - I took photos of the existing frames when I specified mine - no issues at all really! If the frame comes in a few mm too big - a wood plane takes the size down nicely:thumbup:

Problem points are generally gloop and/or chip in the tank stopping the oil pickup drawing oil through to the oil pump, a plugged oil pump or just wear in the pump itself. Other than that, worn or damaged worm drive pinion can also cause issues!

Thats a good call - it does work, usually I use carb cleaner or GT85, work on the fins with a craft knife and the rest with a screw driver, nothing is magical - some powerful oven cleaners work but nothing is an easy option!