spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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My my Eddy, that's a long one....ding dong:lol:
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I thought it may be yours Martin!
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Just try the L screw on one turn out before you tear it down. Personally I would just replace the seals if they prove to be bad unless the bearings are shot!
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Big powerful older Husky, need to be beefy to pull them over as the starter pulley is a tad small. Spares can be an issue but they are decent saws
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Looking at your post again, you DON'T adjust the L screw for highest speed, this is running lean, you bring the L screw in till the revs race and then back off circa 1/4 turn and then adjust idle. Give it one turn out and see if that settles it
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This is sounding like an air leak to me - reason for this is that if you undo the idle adjuster to the point it doesn't do anything, the throttle valve is either stuck open or the engine is getting air in from elswhere. I had a 630 Jonsered once and that was exactly the same - I found the crank seal had actually dissintegrated completely! Try setting the L screw one turn out from fully in and then undo the idle screw - if this still gives a faster than normal idle then take the side rubber grommet of the side of the airbox, start the saw and physically push the carb throttle arb close with your thumb and see if the revs drop - it is possible the throttle mechanism is catching or a bit sticky and if the revs continue being too high - it has an air leak. Continuing to run the saw like this may cause damage - a good engineer should be able to pressure/vac check the saw to ascertain where the leak is.
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Looks like it can be one or the other. Mine is the electronic Quickstop so has the module fitted. It is worth the OP checking the breaker if it is a saw with a contact breaker as these can get dirty and cause spark issues!
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Should I be able to smell Smoke from next doors fire in my lounge
spudulike replied to Jonny Burch's topic in General chat
Is it an older house or a newer one - as others have said, maybe just leaks between flues! -
At least it is on normal Freeview now not Murdochs money machine!
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They have a coil and electronic trigger module, at least mine does!
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Should I buy Husky or Stihl? Wait, I've got an idea!
spudulike replied to doobin's topic in General chat
We did a saw fest a year ago, four men, 20 saws, lots of cookies, chips and a decimated log pile:lol: TBH, it was good for all concerned as the other three arborists work with each other now - I just made lost of noise and chip:thumbup: -
I would estimate 65 - 70% off bore, the piston has a big front skirt and the ring ends are both on the back of the bore:thumbup:
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Found this but not sure if it includes the pinion etc - Adjustable Oil Pump Conversion Kit for Stihl 024, MS260 - 1121 007 1043 | Stihl MS260/026 Chainsaw Spares
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The muffler drilling, from what I can see, allows the exhaust a direct path out of the can, same as the MS200T, I think the initial 5mm hole probably gave a 15% increase so my mod afterwards of 7% would have been around 22 - 25% overall. Degrees - 5% and not really happy to take it much further! I could make the outlet 10mm but TBH, I the gains to be had are pretty much done and don't want to charge the owner a big lump of dosh for a few percent - makes sense IMO. The MS362 is a different case - loads on the exhaust, almost nothing on the inlet apart from a big old bevel on the casting that can be significantly reduced. The back end of the piston with the Strato cut outs, reduces the chance of widening it by much more! Should go a fair bit better once done!
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Nope, that one has a tank, my one is an electric motor attached to a small cylinder like the one found on an engine with a pressure release valve. Simply turn it on and two seconds later, you have enough air for a second or two of full pressure air and you just give the part a puff and then give it two seconds and then you have enough for another blast - pretty simple and works just fine with an air gun and line! It is a bit old but does the job:thumbup: Something like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-DA0-1850-1-1KW-OIL-FREE-AIR-COMPRESSOR-/200965873822#ht_368wt_958
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Its a Ferm and think it is 1.5hp but not 100%. It makes noise but if you are cleaning saw parts, you are only using it for a few seconds at a time so no need to have it going for long. If you think about stripping a saw, the covers come off one by one and each one gets a few seconds each as it comes off, the main body gets a good going over but TBH, mine runs for 5-15 secs at the most normally - thats all I need! Between cleaning each part, you turn it off!
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The brake shouldn't stop the saw firing but can stop it starting and idling if it is binding - looks like you have a bearing/binding issue:thumbdown:
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I have a small direct drive no tank compressor for cleaning saws, the good thing is there is no wait for air and it runs for only a few seconds at a time, the bad thing is, you don't get a constant stream of air as you would with a tank but unless you are spraying paint or sand blasting, it will do what you want for a very low price. If you just want a bit of compressed air to clean saws, why pay a fortune - mine was £30 secondhand and has been useful.
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Been working on an MS150, it had a 5mm muffler mod so I did a few test cuts in this tune and then opened up the muffler to 8mm and advanced the ignition timing. The mod is worth 7% gains across an average of three cuts, not as much as I was hoping but thats life! Would have been more interesting comparing with a standard saw. Also got a MS362 in for a full porting, this looks like it has a bit left on the table, the exhaust can be significantly widened unlike the MS361. The uppers can be rolled back but almost nothing on the inlet as it is a strato engine and the piston hinders much widening of the port - possibly 0.75mm either side. The lowers can be matched to the gasket and may open up the crankcase to get a bit more flow - a muffler mod should get this saw running with a bit more gusto:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k279fFMBmts]Stihl MS150 Muffler Mod 5mm - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k279fFMBmts]Stihl MS150 Muffler Mod 5mm - YouTube[/ame]
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You can fit a longer bar - say 16" but you will find that your saw will bog in the cut and make a reasonable saw in to something that will frustrate you. You will notice that the chain on your saw is a 1.1mm gauge where most pro saws use 1.5/1.6mm, there is a reason for this, if you put a larger gauge chain on your saw and it will again bog in the cut. So, IMO - leave it as is, if you need to cut larger wood - buy a larger saw!
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Yeah Rich but will they be upside down as usual:lol: Bigger workshop.....that would be nice:thumbup:
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There should be a flange around the outside of that arm, it is so the arm has a friction fit around the gearing pinion so it wont tear itself apart if the oil pump locks up - it should be able to turn the arm around the plastic bit but with a fair bit of force - if it is too easy, the oiler won't work and is a common fault.....sorry - £12 postage sounds a bit heavy, try L&S engineers - they will be around £3.00 I would imagine!
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Pretty busy but that is always the case, got an MS150 and MS362 in for porting and this big FS360. Hopefully may clear the decks the following weekend - I work on the "if you can't se the workshop floor, you can't send more kit in" theory! Just had an old customer wanting a MS660 sorted and a couple of MS200T refurbs...it never stops:lol:
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Got a FS360 in this week, a Behemoth of brushcutters, lacking compression so pulled the muffler and it revealed a seized engine. Took the cylinder off to reveal a huge slab of aluminium transfer on the exhaust side. Yes, the last image is the same cylinder after cleaning:thumbup: Just shows what you can do if you know what you are doing:lol:
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Sounds like the pump shaft could be tight as it sounds like the clutch is driving the pinion but the gear isn't turning as it should - strip it down to check it.
