spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Who's restricted to saws:001_rolleyes:I have fixed everything from saws to 200 year old longcase clocks, biggest thing I have fixed was probably a 60' long industrial printer I worked on and repaired....many times! You know what I mean you reach an age where you have had thumbs in many pies - I do a few mowers and TBH, if you can understand and fix one mechanical item, it is pretty certain you will be able to fix another - whatever it is!
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Ah, lawnmowers, don't do many of them, guess you could build the worlds slowest chainsaw with a B&S engine:lol:
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Can you tell someones age group from the way they Post
spudulike replied to gensetsteve's topic in The Lounge
No - Constipation:lol: -
You have just made some old tool to piss us off because we can't work out what they are for!
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About the same as having the clutch come off when firing a saw up without the clutch cover being on I should think:blushing:
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Can you tell someones age group from the way they Post
spudulike replied to gensetsteve's topic in The Lounge
Semi COLON -
Ah, making sense now, you aren't slagging of Stihl are you Rich- reckon you have been cloned or something:lol:
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Give us a clue to which saw Rich or is this a general request:confused1: From experience, the needle bearing is usually the same but TBH usually use rim drives on anything 50cc + and pro in design. I am guessing also that you do mean spur and rim drive clutch drum.......you been on the sauce again or been sniffing the carb cleaner - should avoid that:001_rolleyes:
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The Greek fella "Leo" and MAx from Latvia off ebay are both good traders, had loads of pistons off Leo, best delivery 4 days from Greece, no complaints. You will need to make sure the bore is clean before getting the piston. The Chinese kits may give you a cheap option but rings can be fragile, circlips that can pop out and a piston to bore size that can be at best, iffy. The choice is yours but I always try to salvage the original cylinder. They don't cost 8 times the price of the Chinese ones for no reason:001_rolleyes:
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Can you tell someones age group from the way they Post
spudulike replied to gensetsteve's topic in The Lounge
Think you are spot on with that one! I think the only time some use a colon is to do a smiley:-) As for capital letters for names, the use of too & to, their & there and paragraphs - what do they teach in schools today:001_rolleyes: From an old fart:thumbup: -
Sounds a bit extreme - I would try resetting the flywheel to coil gap, metering out the HT lead to plug connector, taking off the kill wire and trying a new plug before splurging on a new coil:thumbup:
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My personal method would to be to clean the bore and if it isn't bad, would fit a new piston, preferably a Meteor one! The Chinese quality can be hit or miss
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Personally I would get a view on the piston before clutching at straws on a new carb kit! If you do buy a carb kit, get it from Rowena Motors, crap website but email Hugo the saw details and ask him to send a paypal request, the kit will arrive in one or two days and cost under half of the Stihl kit plus it will be genuine Zama or Walbro. I have had troublee with these carbs before and have had success in ultrasonically cleaning the carbs but look at the piston first - just what I would do:thumbup:
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I have a seized Stihl 026C in, took the muffler off and thought "what the F" it weighed a ton - took the front off and WOW - I found the Flux Capacitor that Doc was looking for in Back to the Future. In reality, I knew it was a "KAT" model but now know why the Yanks tear them out - The thing is not very free breathing and damn heavy:001_rolleyes: so it is currently being ground out and to hell with the few grammes of CO2 the saw will make when cutting firewood five times a year:lol:
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Lets take the muffler off and take a picture of this scoring so we can see its extent. It sounds like the saw has enough compression when cold but when it gets warm, the compression drops a bit and power is lost - the hot metal thins the oil in the fuel and generally causes around 15psi drop in compression. This isn't a problem on a saw running decent compression but on a scored cylinder, it will cause issues. If you can measure the compression - anything 150psi or over is good. If the saw has scores, the cylinder probably has aluminium transfer on the bore and scored piston and rings, the saw may well be able to be fixed but these saws are a bit of a mare to strip and repair:thumbdown: Post a pickie please:thumbup:
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Note that the bearings go in with the plastic race retainer on the outside! If you fit them with the bearings the wrong way round, the crank will be clamped!
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Just a bit of a blast with a compressor on this one, the bore was fine:thumbup:
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I did my local churchyard last year - similar operation. Bloody strimmer union failed and had to use a hand scythe on the nettles - bloody McCulloch. Got a Zenoah powered one now and the McCulloch........ebay in the spring:001_rolleyes:
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Now awaiting three pistons to come in, the latest project is a 350 Husqvarna - it is being ported and has a nice muffler mod, should go nicely once done:thumbup:
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Project Porting MS362 - The inlet port is damn small due to the strato cut-outs in the piston, opened it out a little but too much and you would get leakage back in to the carb:thumbdown: Upper transfers lengthened, exhaust port is widened but didn't go mad due to the lack of inlet size. The lower transfers were left as is, I have seen some have modified them but the crankcase matches them so this will give zero benefit - a custom gasket was fitted to up compression. I did a muffler mod by drilling out the internal baffle which was a pig and extending the outer deflection plate - it now makes your ears ring:blushing:
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OK, one screw is the idle - this has a conical end and DOES'NT go in to the carb body. You will have two other screws, the one nearest the cylinder is the low speed screw "L" screw - try turning it out one turn after screwing it fully in... to start with. The other is the H screw, give it two full turns out from fully in, start the saw. When revved flat out, it will probably smoke like hell and be pretty flubby on the top end - turn the screw in bit by bit until it sounds a little flubby on the top end but doesn't scream. Most saws run both screws 1 turn out on the H and L screw but it isn't a definite as there are one or two exceptions. If the H screw is wound too far in, the saw will lean seize due to lack of fuel/oil mix so it is also worth checking the colour of the spark plug after cutting a couple of rings. Light tan colour is good - see below, far left is good, the other two came from seized engines:thumbdown: I did fix them though:thumbup:
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As the Sex Pistols said - "Oh you silly thing, you've really gone and done it now":lol: The bearings on the MS200T are like needle bearings but with much larger rollers that roll on the crank itself. This type of bearing has a little play in it as part of its design and is different from roller bearings on larger saws where you have close to zero play and the ball bearings roll on an inner and outer race of the bearing. Long and short....the clutch side usually knocks out first and is generally caused by over-tightening the chain. I would only change the bearings (needs to split the crankcase) if they knock on idle but don't bother unless they are knocking. Best way to see if they are knocking is to fire up the saw without the clutch fitted, let it idle and wearing a pair of thick gloves, push the crank in one direction and if the knocking goes....... The in and out movement is "end float" and is normal for this type of construction.
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<p>All good here, got a fair bit on, 026 seized, fs360 seized, two 372XPs for porting and a 350 for the same....and you?</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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At least my advice was correct unlike some:001_rolleyes:
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The end is probably in the exhaust, it won't be in the carb as the port is never open to the top of the piston. It may have got stuck in the transfer but less likely. Just pull the exhaust off and take a look.
