spudulike

If you take it off with the fuel tank in place, the hardest part is getting the new one in with the gasket in place - best held in place with a little glue/sealent/grease! Not that difficult to do!

The carb does have an accelerator pump:001_rolleyes: found that out recently:thumbdown:

Pretty much same as my opinion - I have fitted new pistons in 021s before and only got 130psi so it isn't bad IMO. Some saws just don't make top compression even when 100% condition. One tip is to give one hard pull on the first pull of the compression check - it should be 1/2 of the maximum compression achievable or more. This is a good indicator as to whether the piston is shot. Just be careful on some high comp saws as it does have a tendency to bugger the Schrader valve!

Just start at one turn out on each. I usually take the carb off, remove the screws and then slot them:thumbup: I did see a "poor mans adjuster" made from some coat hanger wire and a cable connector crimp - like a spade terminal crimp but with a wire crimp both ends - not tried it yet!

Sorry Rich, I won't phone you again:lol: Sounds like a Muppet - you just crank the clinder down going diagonally on the bolts and then use normal engineers feel to get the point that is tight enough but not too tight so something breaks:thumbup:

Good to hear the MS230 is running and that one of my three tips was right, not that you probably needed it. I have seen these saws run fine on low compression so it may last longer than you think! Think you have retarded that 880 ignition, probably get the owner complaining about lack of power now:001_rolleyes:

Don't know for sure but try one turn out on the H & L screw - it is what most saws are set to bar a couple.

leaking needle valve not holding back impulse pressure?? Got to be something like that.

That 230 Rich, may be worn piston skirt causing blowback on crank pressure cycle or just the L screw a bit rich, seen this on 024/026 before!

I am impressed by the technology and the performance it gives but not so happy at having adjustments now being out of reach where before a "quick tweak" would have resolved an issue!

I have a video on "what's on my bench" of the two I ported, the 395 out pulled the 390 on exactly the same bar - Stubbys 390XP and MattyFs 395XP both went pretty well:thumbup:

Spot on, we are guests at Stevie Bs place and if you get leery, consider yourself chucked out:thumbup: What about a three strike system - three warnings and you are out, it may sort out some of our wayward friends that like to ridicule - think we are pretty much OK on the Chainsaw Tech side of things now!

Had an MS460 in over the weekend - not starting when hot so first thoughts were carb related. Took the carb off but inspection through the exhaust port showed signs of seizure - the compression was good but took it apart and cleaned the piston up a little. Pics below before and after. The cylinder was honed very lightly to aid it bedding in, the carb was cleaned and reset to factory. The cylinder had had the plug hole inserted as the thread had gone - this insert duely came out - bugger:blushing: Put it back in with loctite 270 - high temp thread loc and left it overnight after heatig the cylinder a little - this morning, a good belt with a mallet and bingo - the insert was in solid:thumbup: Did a number of other things including cleaning the clutch drum and greasing the needle bearing. Tried to tach it and the saw cut out, re-started it and bang - cut out again:confused1: Tested the spark and it was gone - took the side cover off and bingo:thumbup: the coil to flywheel gap was 3-4 times what it should be - route cause of failure found! Re tached the saw - was running at 14,500 so backed it off to 13,300 and all is good, the low speed was lean and is fine now - should help starting - 48 hour turn around, owner very happy:thumbup:

1/2 a horsepower is a lot in saw terms:thumbup:

It doesn't fill the workshop with smoke when you fire up a saw in it either:thumbup:

The fact that you are controlling combustion by minimising the air going in to the stove means that the heat that normally rushes up the chimney with an open fire gets retained in the chimney and will warm it considerably. Is the chimney lined or unlined?

Sounds like tha guy from Aspen is doing a fine job and has made a very positive gesture on this one. For the record, if any customer want his machine changed over to Aspen I generally change the fuel line and fit a new carb kit. The reason - £20 of parts is nothing compared to the machine forming a fuel leak or playing up after being sent back, especially if it fails on a large job with possibly no back up saw. Most of my work is done at a distance for guys with limited knowledge of carbs etc so my personal opinion is that it may not be 100% needed but is a way of ensuring the saw continues to run as it should and isn't just a way to charge more - I am guessing that your shop may have charged much more than £40 for 2-3 hours work and my fitting of these parts is generally part of a major refurb. On the starting issue - how about this one, the cutter is emptied of fuel, Aspen goes in....damn, filled it up a bit too much fuel cap is refitted, the compression of the cap on the fuel forces it in to the carb and passed the needle valve flooding the engine. Operator totally unaware - damn Aspen, it won't start:cursing: I had a saw in on Friday - exactly that, refuel and not starting - took the plug out, turned it upside down, pulled it over hard a few times. Plug heated with a gas torch, straight back in the saw, pulled over with no choke and bingo - lots of smoke and a running saw:thumbup: How about that:thumbup:

Have you got any large roundabouts near you Barrie, we could hold the National Arbtalk Grand Prix:thumbup:

Sounds about right - means I will have to slum it and leave Hertfordshire though:001_tt2:

You do know you need to earth the base of the plug to test it?? It is a simple job to change it - recoil cover off, take off the plug cap, undo the two retaining bolts, take off the kill wire, refit with the new coil and use a business card between the magnets and coil to set the gap. Reclip the kill wire:thumbup:

Not st all, just trying to give you options

I'm pretty much with Gardenkit on this, probably fuel/carb related. Personally I would strip the carb, boil it in the ultrasonic cleaner at 50 degrees for an hour, check the welch plug is sealed, check the needle valve is holding pressure, check the gauze filter is clear and then reassemble and try again. The symptoms in your case (Barrie has already done these checks) could also be caused by a lightly scored piston or an airleak from a split impulse or manifold causing an air leak. My usual path is pressure/vac test, check compression and then work on the carb if OK - I would check the carb internal gauze filter as one of the first checks - a common part to get blocked and cause the saw to have lack of power in the cut but not free running.

Get a photo up of the exhaust side of the original Stihl cylinder - I have cleaned up cylinders by post before .....if it helps!