spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sounds like the first firing has been missed and subsequent pulls have flooded the saw. Personally I use a mixture of ideas of what others have said. Firstly take the plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast for 10 times until fuel stops dripping out of the plug hole and heavy vapour stops blasting out. At this point, get the plug nice and hot on a gas hob (make sure er indoors is out) or use a gas torch, pull the choke out and push it all the way back in, put the plug back in and pull it over fast and all being well, it will start. It is possible the carb needle has stuck open and is flooding the engine and stopping it working but give the above method a go - the hot plug helps vapourise the fuel and aids ignition - holding the throttle open can aid the starting as well. Oh - DON'T USE THE DECOMP WHEN DOING THE ABOVE - it will help starting to have full compression. Good luck, it will be a good saw....trust me:thumbup:
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I would try to keep the barrel unless it is: - 1) Badly Scored 2) Port edges are chipped/damaged 3) Plating is worn through to the aluminium I would fit a quality Meteor or Episan piston - Piston Kit fit HUSQVARNA 181, 281 XP (52mm) [#503502702] | eBay I would also very lightly hone the bore to allow the piston to bed down - this should get the saw back to decent performance. If the cyinder is worn then you have to either fit a CHinese kit with OEM rings and circlips or source the Husqvarna one.....unless there is a Meteor one available - they are pretty good!
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You need part 503 89 96-71 and the Jonsered 2149 and the Husqvarna both share the same piston. I would try to purchase a Meteor piston from the Greek or Latvian guy off ebay, they are both reliable sellers and the pistons they sell are better than the Chinese ones and worth the money. Look at my thread (Whats on your bench) for further details on this sort of repair - the transfered aluminium MUST be 100% removed from the cylinder before rebuilding the saw. If the scores in the plating are light then salvage the OEM part - it will be well worth it.
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I have become a fuel tank sniffer:blushing: Only way to tell what the owner has been using:thumbup:
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Hi Barrie - I wouldn't mind a few of these stickers, I do a number of conversions and retunes - one recently came back from a dealer with conventional fuel/oil in it with the owner being ticked off for using neat fuel:blushing: I guess around 15 if you have them. You are a decent fella:thumbup:
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Can you grind/file a suitable socket - last time I used a scwrench on one, the screwdriver bit came off - drilled a hole through it, pushed it through and brazed it back:lol: Those old clutches can be pretty hard to shift, could try a little heat and oil!
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Funny, I was wondering what happened to them - that 254XP was a bit shocking when I started it up after modding compared to before, it picked up so damn fast and sounded pretty urgent:thumbup: The 357XP was one of my tried and tested mods - quite a few out there and still going strong:thumbup: Thanks for the feedback - always good to know how well any work I do ends up:thumbup1:
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Couple of trees down near me in North Herts, nothing like 1987 though thankfully, that was savage!
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A bit of both, lots of very worn parts everywhere you look, you repair one and find another Grrrrr. No Martin, not my saw!
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Back to the MS650 I had in for a service and had a dodgy oiler, I found this saw to be one of those ex British Alcan saws used for cutting ally billets:thumbdown: The oiler has been replaced as has the pinion, clutch springs and the clutch side crank seal - got to run it up and tached it. Afterwards it wouldn't start and compression was iffy, it had measured 150 and in 10 minutes of running had dropped to 120psi:thumbdown: Pulled the cylinder and the reason is pretty clear - very bad wear on the plating - right through to the aluminium on both ports. A new OEM P&C kit is out of the question so will fit a new aftermarket with OEM rings and circlips and check out the cylinder thoroughly before fitting it to make sure it has a good chance of lasting. This has been a bitch of a saw to fix:001_rolleyes:
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If you like the 345, as I do as it was my first proper saw, the ones to look for are 345 & 350 in the home owner/semi pro range or the 346XP from the pro range. The 346XP feels just like the 345 but is more solid having alloy crankcases and a typical Husqvarna pro build plus it will pull harder in the cut. Earlier models were 45cc and can be seen by their orange clutch cover, later models were nicknamed "Silverside" and had a 50cc engine with a silver clutch cover. They are pretty reliable saws but make sure that the piston and pot are original when you buy one.
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Yes......but that pickup - brings a smile to my face every time - open up the exhaust hole by X2 for more fun:thumbup:
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This advice is damn spot on, only thing to add is look at the bottom of the saw for a judge of how harsh it has been used and check the oiler works.
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Latest one in, a big box containing a MS200T...............in bits:001_rolleyes: It has two stripped threads on the exhaust and an oil leak on the crankcase. The threads are now helicoiled and the leak.....it was caused by wood chip in the recoil cover screw hole nearest the lower AV mount punching a hole through to the oil tank. I have degreased the area and put JB Weld around the area to seal it.
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I just cut my own firewood but use the brake when walking or moving with the saw and when other people are around me when I have finished cutting.
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I would go with Rich on this one. If the ring is worn then the skirts on your piston wil have probably worn as well. Although the ring makes a large percentage of the compression, the piston fit also makes a significant difference on compression and the corresponding torque of the machine. The piston should be 44.3mm in diameter - I would measure it and also look to see if any of the machining marks are still visible - you can also take it off and run it up the bore (no ring on it) with your thumb on the plug hole and feel if there is compression or not. The other thing I do is get the piston near the bottom of it's stroke and move it forward and back (not up and down) to check for signs of piston slap. Up to you and guess it depends if it is a customer repair, budget or your own machine!
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I guess it depends on what sort of work you have in mind for the saw. Ringing up 1' - 2' trunks and the 365 is in its element. If it is for a bit of domestic firewood then a 346XP or its replacement 550XP would be a good choice if you are not on a tight budget.
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Ur a hard man Dave, that was below the belt:blushing:
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Needed: intake manifold gasket for stihl 075?
spudulike replied to landroverfanatic's topic in Chainsaws
Done this many times, keep a number of thicknesses of gasket paper in the workshop - punch the smaller holes with a hand punch and cut the shape with a scalpel. -
If you do import from the US, factor in the extra 20% VAT and around £10 handling that the import will attract!
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Garden Hire Spares Green Stripe are two outfits I have used, 537 01 71-01 537 01 72-01. Are the ones for the crank case 503 92 27-01 503 71 97-01. Are for the clutch cover Look for 372xp IPL on Google to look at the parts type
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Given up on the McCulloch Titan 50 for now, it runs and oils but is leaking fluids a bit - needs more work:001_rolleyes: Got the seal back in the MS660, fiddly little bugger - would have been easier with a chamfer on the crank shaft where the seal slides on but thats life. Found a method that works and now got a decent seal and it passes checks:thumbup:
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A saw and pole cutter have gone walkies that I had serviced/ported in the past. I regularly look out for them on ebay but they haven't turned up to date. Both had some distinctive mods I had done hence me looking! I think the stolen kit gets pushed around under the radar as far as I can tell!
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Got an old McCulloch Titan 50 that I purchased ages ago, surprisingly it did start so thought I would give it a quick going over ready for sale:001_rolleyes: The clutch spring had snapped and had to grind out two lots of rivits to get the spring retaining plates off so I could get a new spring on. Then...the bloody thing wouldn't start - fuel line had fallen apart as had the breather pipes, the oil pickup and the spaghetti junction of pipes around the manual oil pump:thumbdown: Got them all replaced and just need to reassemble it and clean the carb - hopefully it will all be OK once fuelled up and pulled over.
