spudulike

Just got the MS200T back together - one I am doing for resale. The carb has had a full going over and the accelerator pump and a few other fixes applied. A light tuning has seen the compression rise dramatically - how does 200psi on a warm engine grab you?? Normally they pull 150 and possibly 170psi on a good one - looks like it may pull well on a 12":thumbup:

Generally it depends if you can do the work yourself, what the spare parts cost and if you can't do the work - what someone will charge you to do the work. Generally if the crank bearings or crank are shot on an older saw, it can make economical repair touch and go. You need to really check the bearings out and if OK, check the cylinder bore out, if the bore is OK and the plating isn't worn through, a full refurb and new piston will breath new life in to an older saw. Using non OEM parts can save a few bucks but you need to take care it isn't a false economy on important parts that are not easy to access. Hope that helps a little

I reckon using a metal plate screwed to the crack with some sealant between the tank and plate Just bear in mind that any leaking fuel is a fire hazzard!

always a pleasure:001_rolleyes:

I don't reckon Petro Patch will work, plastic welding is probably the best bet, screwing and gluing on a thin metal patch may be an option. Of the sealents I have used, "Seal All" came up best for petrol leaks.

Take the clutch off - spin it clockwise to do this, remove the clutch drum and bearing, three screws and remove the dual side cover, remove the worm drive, remove the two retaining bolts on the pump and pull it off the oil channel connector block and remove the pipe. Make sure the same oil pump retaining screws are used to fit the pump back on as if you use longer ones, you will punch a hole in to the inner crank case:thumbdown:

Yes Rich.....you did didn't you - think I will run a phone service help line as well! The worm drives rarely wear and the pickup pipe filter or plugged pump are the usual suspects:thumbup: If these parts are fine then the pumps do wear to the point they stop working:thumbdown:

Not a bad idea, the carb may need a little tweak after fitting but if you are doing a fair bit of dead dusty wood or have concerns then it is a good option. Most that come in have either the two stage like you have or this filter - just keep it clean

The secondary filter is a good idea and so is regularly cleaning the filter out - seen many saws come in for porting with caked up filters - Stubbys wasn't one of them:thumbup: The inner filter can be cleaned with carb cleaner - a compressor is an excellent tool to do it well. The saw will be OK with a light ingress of dust but if it gets heavier, it will take the plating off the cylinder.

It has probably worn down but L&S engineers are pretty good on Stihl parts or try one of the sponsors on this site if you want to pick up the phone!

A running enqine needs compression, spark and fuel. Sounds like compression is OK so pull it over a bit and see if the plug is wet and also check the spark but keep it away from the plug hole as you can get some great flames out of the plug hole if it is blowing vapour. Once you know which bit isn't there then it could be a multitude of things but you have to start somewhere.

Well, in a Close of five houses, three have had saws of me:thumbup: I do keep the ported kit for weekdays or Saturdays - no Sundays. They do get used out and about, just pulled a load of Ash out of a ditch from the last storm for firewood - nice haul and the 357XP was as good as ever - blindingly fast:thumbup: Glad the MS460 is going well, not sure why the 350 should be boggy, they are quite peaky saws by nature so will be better on a narrow kerf 15" than a longer bar. The 372XPs are a tried and tested formulae - always good to do!

Well I like that idea...nice one:thumbup: It will generate a bit more heat when running in but may be worth dialing it down to 13,500 whilst it is being run in. It may just be the quality of the new kit, time will tell. My ported one pulls 15,000 rpm and gets a tad hot:blushing:

Nah, think I am part of the institution now:thumbup: Being reasonable helps as well:lol:

Yeah, a sticky.........sticky what:confused1: needs a bit of WD40 IMO:lol:

Well thats saved one Christmas card:001_tt2:

Too bloody right:lol: a large percentage of kit I get in is the arbs doorstop that he eventually decides is better working that falling over:001_rolleyes: Anyway - for those who are always asking, I AM REBUILDING ONE OF MY MS200Ts Yup, it is on its way, the crank bearings have zero play and 155psi dry so am expecting it to be pretty good. It will have a full pressure/vac check, I will up the compression to make it have more grunt in the cut and will have all worn parts replaced so anyone interested - PM me.....sorry Mods - think I have earnt it:thumbup:

Thats your age Rich or what your mother said about playing with yourself is true:lol: Think we better put it down to old age:blushing: No worries - I have a selection of magnifying glasses in the workshop and am sure I am not the only one:001_rolleyes:

Generally when I get these saws in, I strongly recommend one of my FULL refurbs and part of this is a pressure/vac/compression check which will throw up even a slight leak in the seals. I would only do this on a full refurb and not a general service or fixing a specific issue unless that issue was holding on to revs on throttle release. A service entails a clean out with an airline, inspection, a run up and if the saw has been playing up, a carb inspect, clean and rebuild which 95% of the time will resolve the main issues. I rarely do this and have fixed specific faults before only to have the saw back in a week for a broken recoil cord and clutch spring.....typical, the fault I fixed was still fine! Personally I believe that toppers should be as close to 100% as is possible, no one wants a foul behaving MS200T up the top of a tree half way through the day after fatigue has set in - this is why I recommend the full rebuild on older faulty saws and do what I do in such detail. So - a full rebuild gets a pressure/vac check, bogging/bad idle and hanging on to revs gets the same, a minor service gets none of this!

That Rich worries me:001_rolleyes:

Right - back home now and from the IPL, I can see that part 1122 400 1203 is the correct part, the part 1122 400 1207 is the part for heaated handles and will have a circular magnet on the back of it. You are correct about the winding being for the heated handles. There are quite a number of coils listed: - 1122 400 1300 (must be used with 1122 400 1201/1206 flywheel) 1122 400 1303 - From Part number X 18 761 250 1122 400 1311 - From Part Number X 31 067 164 0000 400 1300 - From part Number X 31 067 164 The latter three part numbers are to be used with 1122 400 1203/1207 flywheels) I think your coil may be aftermarket and has no retardation on low revs at start up - this is what gives many old saws a real kick on starting as the engine fires on the upward stroke ripping the starter out of your hand - the ignition was set at around 19 degrees advance with no electronic retard! Try to get hold of the 0000 400 1300 ignition module and try that. One simple thing to try is to increase the distance of the coil to flywheel to say "double business card", check the saw still sparks and try that, it will have the same effect as retarding the ignition but may cause lack of spark issues!

My assumption was the issues with the crank/clutch had been sorted on the OPs saw. I believe that the early ones had issues with the cranks not bring machined correctly and this would knock the sprocket bearing out but using the spur sprocket sorted the issue. I don't believe it was caused by the saw being made too powerful for the drive gear. It is of course, worth taking in to consideration but in reality, once the power is on, the sprocket, clutch and crank are locked together so the needle bearing is under no or minimal load and is only spinning at idle speed. All good comment though

Nice one Ed, hope it goes well for you.

I might take you up on that one day:blushing: Think I am owed a brewery or two by a few:lol:

Typically a muffler mod will get the power up in the easiest manner with porting being the next step. These Strato saws usually have little to give on the inlet port but more on the exhaust port.