spudulike

Stops the oil coming out of the feed pipe:thumbup:

Nice view in the workshop this weekend, three ported Huskys - two 372s and 350, now boxed and ready to go after a taching and run up:thumbup: Been pulling seals also - got to show these pics just to piss off the techs without this tool:001_rolleyes:

Ask Agg221 about Allen Scythes - he has one he resurected and runs:thumbup:

550 & 560 if new or 357 & 346 if secondhand - they will bring a smile to your face and tend to rip a little:thumbup:

It generally works well with small saws with roller crank bearings, for the larger saws I generally use pullers or the Stihl tool. You do need to go easy to avoid any damage but it is a method that is used by many with success. Spinning the crank wheel round 180 degrees and trying again can help tricky ones. I have made puller extensions before out of steel to pull off flywheels. These small Dolmar/Makitas often use needle rollers - the Dolmar 309 I had was very similar.

Wedge a screwdriver between the crankcase and flywheel and belt the end of the crankshaft with a mallet:thumbup:

The chain should not hang off the bar(no drive links visible), you should be able to spin it by hand around the bar and it should carry on moving for a second or so after your hand has stopped pulling it round. when done at speed. When tightening the chain, make sure you either chock under the bar to force it upwards as it will loosen if you don't do it - you can, alternatively, pull the chain of the top part of the bar on tightening that has the same effect. I appologize if you already know this but it does ensure parts don't get worn and the saw is used safely.

no worries, I also forgot to mention the clutch, if you look at the image, you can see one spring gleaming.....just look at the coils on the other two and compare. It looks like one spring has failed and the previous owner......has replaced one spring:001_rolleyes: these things are about one and a half quid each, if one fails.....it means the others, that have had the same life, will fail soon - CHANGE THEM IN SETS, you know it makes sense:001_rolleyes::lol:

Yes, I know, wouldn't be so bad if the owner had got good use out of it or had paid a fair price for it:thumbdown: Not a good one by far but will be much improved when he gets it back!

Had a MS650 in for a service, bit of a catalogue of disasters...looks nice in the first picture doesn't it:001_rolleyes: Well it isn't, this is one of the British Alcan saws that has been used for cutting Aluminium billets and has been repainted, the metal behind the clutch is bare and battered aluminium alloy. Various things are wrong with it, the oiler is knackered, pinion worm drive stripped, the pump was full of metal swarf and the gear badly worn, the crank bearigs have play in them, the crank seals are leaking, the chain brake handle had bad wear around the pivot, the bore looks a bit worn but compression wasn't too bad at 150psi. The carb did look clean though:thumbup: I am sorting out the real bad stuff - have sleeved the brake handle and it is now tight, the oil pump and pinion will be sorted and new crank seals to get rid of the minor vacuum leak. The saw is really too worn to take the cost of new crank bearings but the owner has had a few bad issues as of late so am doing this as a bit of an act of charity - not that he asked but am a very reasonable fella:blushing: Am keeping the costs right down and am not going to charge labour against the owners wishes!

That's the one, nice adaptation:thumbup:

If you take it off with the fuel tank in place, the hardest part is getting the new one in with the gasket in place - best held in place with a little glue/sealent/grease! Not that difficult to do!

The carb does have an accelerator pump:001_rolleyes: found that out recently:thumbdown:

Pretty much same as my opinion - I have fitted new pistons in 021s before and only got 130psi so it isn't bad IMO. Some saws just don't make top compression even when 100% condition. One tip is to give one hard pull on the first pull of the compression check - it should be 1/2 of the maximum compression achievable or more. This is a good indicator as to whether the piston is shot. Just be careful on some high comp saws as it does have a tendency to bugger the Schrader valve!

Just start at one turn out on each. I usually take the carb off, remove the screws and then slot them:thumbup: I did see a "poor mans adjuster" made from some coat hanger wire and a cable connector crimp - like a spade terminal crimp but with a wire crimp both ends - not tried it yet!

Sorry Rich, I won't phone you again:lol: Sounds like a Muppet - you just crank the clinder down going diagonally on the bolts and then use normal engineers feel to get the point that is tight enough but not too tight so something breaks:thumbup:

Good to hear the MS230 is running and that one of my three tips was right, not that you probably needed it. I have seen these saws run fine on low compression so it may last longer than you think! Think you have retarded that 880 ignition, probably get the owner complaining about lack of power now:001_rolleyes:

Don't know for sure but try one turn out on the H & L screw - it is what most saws are set to bar a couple.

leaking needle valve not holding back impulse pressure?? Got to be something like that.

That 230 Rich, may be worn piston skirt causing blowback on crank pressure cycle or just the L screw a bit rich, seen this on 024/026 before!

I am impressed by the technology and the performance it gives but not so happy at having adjustments now being out of reach where before a "quick tweak" would have resolved an issue!

I have a video on "what's on my bench" of the two I ported, the 395 out pulled the 390 on exactly the same bar - Stubbys 390XP and MattyFs 395XP both went pretty well:thumbup:

Spot on, we are guests at Stevie Bs place and if you get leery, consider yourself chucked out:thumbup: What about a three strike system - three warnings and you are out, it may sort out some of our wayward friends that like to ridicule - think we are pretty much OK on the Chainsaw Tech side of things now!

Had an MS460 in over the weekend - not starting when hot so first thoughts were carb related. Took the carb off but inspection through the exhaust port showed signs of seizure - the compression was good but took it apart and cleaned the piston up a little. Pics below before and after. The cylinder was honed very lightly to aid it bedding in, the carb was cleaned and reset to factory. The cylinder had had the plug hole inserted as the thread had gone - this insert duely came out - bugger:blushing: Put it back in with loctite 270 - high temp thread loc and left it overnight after heatig the cylinder a little - this morning, a good belt with a mallet and bingo - the insert was in solid:thumbup: Did a number of other things including cleaning the clutch drum and greasing the needle bearing. Tried to tach it and the saw cut out, re-started it and bang - cut out again:confused1: Tested the spark and it was gone - took the side cover off and bingo:thumbup: the coil to flywheel gap was 3-4 times what it should be - route cause of failure found! Re tached the saw - was running at 14,500 so backed it off to 13,300 and all is good, the low speed was lean and is fine now - should help starting - 48 hour turn around, owner very happy:thumbup: