spudulike

Ah, don't worry, we all go through bad patches, keep your head down and keep moving forward - the crap will clear, it always does! Thought you were having another pop - don't give up your day job to become a comic - you will go hungry:lol: Just listen to The Smiths greatest hits, that will make you feel better:lol:

As Barrie says, you need to get a sick saw running well first before doing any tuning work - makes a lot of sense:thumbup:

Sorry, don't know of any at the moment - I am sure someone will have one somewhere soon:thumbup:

I didn't knock Stihl Rich, I recommended saws from each brand that the guys I know use for this type of work. I have never said Stihl are rubbish either so no need to get all huffy on us dude - bad day at work?

Are you OK Rich, the OP wants to cross cut 18 - 20" butts and then mill them with the grain to cut some sort of blanks for lathe work. I think a MS181 would be a little stressed in doing this type of work....not being silly but wouldn't you:confused1: The saw is OK for light logging or hedgework/coppicing IMO

Circa £350 - 450! Think Rich has been on the beer 18" ringing with a MS181 - thats one ring per day:lol:

I had a call from a guy today who had the nerve to ask me to fix his chainsaw - bloody cheek:001_huh::lol: You can try the telephone preference system and going ex directory to stop the ijuts getting your number on the marketing phone list - unfortunately you still need to advertise:thumbdown:

120psi - thats poop:thumbdown: I did warn you those aftermarket cylinders are iffy:thumbdown: If you have the original cylinder, clean it and fit a Meteor piston - it will make 150psi+ if done well, think I sald this earlier:001_rolleyes: A saw recomendation - a 372XP is a good weapon or perhaps a Stihl MS460 if you are looking secondhand! 365 if your budget is limited.

This operation can go 100% fine or you can get issues with leaks and poor running. Try a retune of the carb and go from there, if still bad, then the carb may need new rubber parts including diaphragm and fuel line. One thing I find strange is the time interval of pulling out the fuel and replacing with Aspen, I would expect any poor running to happen after the Aspen had time to have an effect. You may have other issues but retune and go from there and you may need to replace parts if necessary. Just done a MS260 - no issues at all but it had been dry standing for a while!

I had one in and once I had it running thought something was wrong with it compared to my ported 346XP - they are OK but they don't go like the 346XP - the transfer ports are not as wide so it is like a lethargic 346XP.

I know who that was as well! Always appreciated

No, it is held in place by the bezel, it doesn't need to be airtight, it is the parts behind the dial that do that!

Well that means it is a blocked gauze filter, a stuck needle valve or more likely, the metering arm needs lifting a tad. It is possible the diaphragm is damaged but the gauze filter or metering arm height are the most likely causes. Note that the metering arm will still need adjusting when fitting a new one.

What cylinder and piston did you use? If it is OEM you can discount lack of compression. On compression - if you pull the piston up to top dead centre and pull it over slowly, you should feel a good amount of sponginess on the pull start - it should be almost like pulling it over with soft rubber in the cylinder - the sort of feelinng you get when pushing on a cycle tyre pump with your thumb on the end of it. If you don't get this then it is likely something is wrong with the fit. Try to measure the compression with a Gunson Hi Gauge, that is what I use as some can read low if made for larger engines!

Sounds like a complete lack of power to me. I would do a compression test. I once had an 024 Stihl that could barely turn the chain round - bad compression and wear on the cylinder due to pulling crap through the air filter. It won't be the clutch, reckon you have very low compression and the saw is just not making enough power to cut wood or the carb is just not working correctly. A worn clutch would make the engine revs soar in the cut and the chain stop. It sounds like the saw revs are just dropping off.

Have you got a compression reading yet, if you havent got a gauge, get the saw with bar, hold it by the starter and then allow it to drop and measure the time the cord goes to full extansion - perhaps someone else with the same model will do likewise but very generally - over 10 secs is good. Take another look at the piston through the exhaust port - you often get a little marking but the ring should have no visible lines on it and the piston skirt only light scratches or clean. It may still be the carb, these seem to be a bit of a bugger on these saws and possibly a longer boil in the US cleaner. You could pre treat the carb by removing the H&L screws and put some carb cleaner down the holes. Make sure you strip the carb before doing this. Remove the gauze filter - quite often these can get blocked up by old fuel - recently had the same MS200T in for this type of symptom - even my cleaner and carb cleaner hadn't shifted a haze of resin from the gause filter - try it - sounds very similar! The kill switch - just check the leaf spring is earthed with a multi meter and then take the recoil cover off and check the kill wire is on the coil and meter between the coil connection and the black wire. If OK, check the resistance of the switch when made, if it is over an Ohm then clean the contacts and re-check. Simple:001_rolleyes:

And don't I know THAT feeling:lol:

My thoughts are either: - 1) Quick strip down and pressure/vac test or 2) Give the carb a GOOD seing to and check two components that often play up! Probably both as it will pull up the vast majority of issues that can cause these faults. Cost wise - I don't usually do this but reckon £50 as a favour and to get the saw back in service. And.........I don't need the work - £600 is a stupid amount of money and hope the repair shops are suitably embarrased:blushing: Throwing spares at machines is damn expensive and shows lack of abillity, identifying the faulty component is what a good tech will do!

Think you better ask your Grand-children Barrie - you feeling old

Joking aside, they are quite correct. Facebok, twitter, forums and Youtube are all potentially free ways of marketing in a day where a mainstream magazine advert can cost £1500 and get totally ignored. I just don't go on Twitter or Facebook as I have no need to see what my friends are having for dinner or what their view on Corrie is:001_rolleyes: Good luck with the exercise, hope it works out for you!

"Yout" is what modern man call "Youth" innit:lol:

If I was on Facebook, I would like it...whatever that is, but have no inclination to do so......hope it brings in some work/free marketing for you Barrie - down with the yout now:thumbup:

I did offer but no joy:001_huh:

Just trying to help - it is a simple circuit that just connects the coil to earth to halt the spark - hope you get the thing sorted......before it ends up in the bin:001_rolleyes:

No worries bud, life is too short, hope you get sorted - customers....the job would be nice without em:lol: