spudulike

TBH I am bloody amazed, £600 and the thing doesn't work.....I have repaired many of these machines and one or two have gone wobbly after a bit of work - all I can do is run them for a limited time so it is a PITA but is understandable. If the saw is returned and has had a FULL refurb, the extra work is done free of charge and think that is what it should be - sure any new parts are charged for but £600 - The most expensive MS200T rebuild I have ever done was a little over £200 and it needed a new side case and a load of other parts:thumbdown: Gardenkit is right and is one of the good guys - fair and reasonable I think the term is:thumbup: The saw should be taken back, the agent reminded that he has had £600 of your hard earn't money and that you wish to have the saw working at his expense! If the saw isn't revving up, it is likely to be either an air leak teaning the saw down or lack of fuel. Does the saw idle OK, If you can, fit a known good carb off another machine and see if it makes the saw run well and immediately, the carb either needs to meet a very good tech or fit a new one. The most likely issue is a carb problem but other issues can be leaking crank seals, leaking or disconnected impulse line and split manifold. Check under the air box on the recoil side, make sure the rubber pipe is connected up to the bottom of it OK. Where are you - you may find one of us is close enough to give some support!

FYI - I have trouble with certain carbs, the ones on the MS390 and MS290 are one of them. The issues I had with a couple of them recently were that they would start the machine but then it would die. I could get a few high speed revs and then nothing. I put these carbs in the ultrasonic cleaner, mine is a decent high power heated one, and bingo, they ran just fine. Not sure if it was build up af crud in the carb or what, my usual suspect is a blocked High speed check valve but it did the trick. Carb cleaner may do it for you but this is what I have found with this saw model......and it drove me mad and cost me a lot of time as I pulled a faulty carb of one machine and put a carb of another machine on it and it still had the same fault - e few hours of checking later, I found both carbs were bad:001_rolleyes: Other than that, fuel lines, fuel filters, tank breather, inlet manifold and impulse line may all be at fault. Good luck....it will make a man of you:lol:

Where are you located, possibly one of us techs can sort it. The part should fall out or tweezers should work, Mattys idea may work but if not, take the exhaust off and if this fails, take the pot off!

Set it a little rich on the top end - not really stupidly so but around 1K rpm off the top revs and then use it flat out - avoid doing loads of really big long cuts straight away one after the other where heat can build up but do use it flat out on some smaller ringing up and let it cool for a minute or two after a long cut. The theory is that you want the bore and piston to bed in whilst there is no glaze on the bore and the rougher piston and cylinder surfaces can wear themselves in together before glaze stops this happening. Try the H screw on 1 1/8 turn and set the L screw to one turn but be prepared to adjust for an even idle. The idle will need adjusting as it all beds in but hopefully not too much. Hope it all works out - the MS290/390 are right pigs to work on at the best of times - if you can strip one of these - other saws will be a lot easier:thumbup: Good luck

Good luck with it, hope it sorts your issues out and starts making you money:thumbup:

I usually change the carb parts and fuel line if the machine has run on conventional fuel for a couple of years when converting to Aspen. It is common to get the fuel seeping around where the fuel line enters the tank and seals when converting over without doing this. You may be lucky but this is what I do if I get a request for conversion.

For £50 you will get a non running old Husky and expect to spend out on a piston, carb kit, sprocket and bar/chain. £100 may get you a running 136/141 Husky or 018/017 Stihl - thats about it. I could sell you a saw for this money but it won't work as it is and that is pretty much what you will get - why not spend £150 and get a working saw - 345, MS210, 026 , 350 sort of thing?

The 130MPBK095 is 13" and uses a 56 link chain 1.3mm gauge 0.325" pitch - not sure how the current bar and chain come in to the equation - just depends on the bar mount which we have already gone through:confused1:

Which part of the carb has no fuel in it, the pumping part or the diaphragm part or both? If it is both - impulse, tank vent holed or kinked fuel line If it is the diaphragm cavity- stuck needle valve, plugged gauze filter or dodgy diaphragm Good luck

Generally from where the dogs are mounted - thats the front of the oil tank and not from the clutch cover!

There is no 12" available, just 13": - 1.3mm Gauge Pro AM - 130MLBK095 Micro Lite Pro- 130MPBK095 1.5mm Gauge Pro Am - 138PXBK095 Power Match Plus - 138RNBK095 Pro Lite - 138SLBK095 1.3mm will suit a lower power saw, all are 56 link 0.325 bars - The Microlite Pro with a 95VPX chain is a fast cutting low kerf solution. Please don't blame me if this doesn't work out, just trying to give help with the info to hand!

From the dims, it looks to be damn close to the Husqvarna small mount used on the 345,350,346,357 and many more models, same slot size, same adjuster holes and oiler hole position!

Well, did you pull:lol:

Yes, she will if she drops a big one and gets acid up her crack:blushing:

My thinking is the original owner seized it and fitted a new piston without cleaning the transfer off the bore!

Alkali can be caustic soda otherwise known as Sodium Hydroxide, Acid is typically Hydrochloric Acid or Muriatic Acid to give it its traditional name. You need to lay the cylinder flat to the bench and apply the chemical with a cotton bud - the aluminium should fizz when the mix is applied - I usually pre treat it by degreasing and abrading it lightly first. Wear gloves and eye protection and clean the cylinder well after using it. If the aluminium doesn't fizz, you need a more concentrated solution. The cleaned area will need the residue abraded off and make sure that you can't feel any marking with your finger otherwise the ring will be damaged very fast. There are lots of examples of me doing this on "Whats on my bench", the success rate is over 90% and have even had some good success with some borderline cylinders. Just don't get hung up on rubbing small scores out - the abrasive paper should be used in swiping motions around the bore and not up and down, especially in the compression area above the exhaust port!

The decomp will unscrew using a long reach socket, just give the bar wrench a tap with a mallet. The clutch nut is part of the clutch - in and out movement is OK as long as the thing hasn't got excessive wobble on it indicating a worn bearing. Go by the serial number, the side cover has probably been taken out at some stage and damaged then replaced with the same part off a different saw. It may be the leaking decomp that has taken the piston out!

Yes and no, waiting on pistons for two saws and a brush cutter and doing a couple of modded mufflers for two 372XPs that need porting. Got a MS660 and two MS200Ts threatening, a Piaggio scooter that won't start, a load of other kit promised. What about you - getting in to the logging season now:thumbup:

Probably not on this Chinese poop, all other mainstream manufacturers - yes!

No, but is that a tang adjuster on your bench:blushing::lol: Sorry Barrie - still mates I hope, here's me thinking "tang" was something to do with Chefs knives but what do I know! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WvC6xqzZc0]AHA Touchy - YouTube[/ame]

MMmm Nice:lol: I saw a Chinese saw once where the bar slot had opened up to around twice its normal width and the chain sat at a 45 degree angle! Made out of silver cheese:thumbdown: You will really need to compare the bar mount to established mounts from Husqvarna and Stihl to see if either will fit and explore others if it doesn't. The usual limiting factors are the diameter of the bar studs, the tensioner adjuster position and the oil hole position. Logic tells me that they probably copied Ryobi, McCulloch or one of the other low cost saw manufacturers design. You could put an image of the bar mount up and all the relevant dims so we can see what might work - and we would also need the pitch of chain - 3/8 LP, 3/8 full profile or 0.325"being the most common.

Well you did well getting it apart without any help - taking the bar stud out usually separates the men from the boys! The piston looks like it may have been changed already and the aluminium transfer left on the cylinder....anyway, it is FUBARed. You will need to ensure ALL aluminium transfer is removed from the bore, some use acid, some use alkali - the choice is yours. You should get a good fizzing going on when your concoction is put on to the bad area. Once the cylinder has stopped fizzing, try going over the area with 400 grit paper and then try the gloop again and when you get no more fizzing, the bore needs to be finally cleaned with 180 grit then finally 400 grit. Make sure the exhaust bevels are smooth and the bore is 100% smooth, small scores or imperfections are OK and then fit a new piston - choose Meteor, Episan or Golf and in that order. Good luck - at least you are learning something! You will really need to know the reason the saw failed - fitting new crank seals is easy and is also worth doing now you have gone this far as any air leak will kill the engine again. Hopefully it failed on old fuel but make sure the H screw is set rich before you start it up and tune it.

A what:confused1:

Think you and Barrie should be on stage! It would be good to heckle:thumbup: