spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Found this but not sure if it includes the pinion etc - Adjustable Oil Pump Conversion Kit for Stihl 024, MS260 - 1121 007 1043 | Stihl MS260/026 Chainsaw Spares
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The muffler drilling, from what I can see, allows the exhaust a direct path out of the can, same as the MS200T, I think the initial 5mm hole probably gave a 15% increase so my mod afterwards of 7% would have been around 22 - 25% overall. Degrees - 5% and not really happy to take it much further! I could make the outlet 10mm but TBH, I the gains to be had are pretty much done and don't want to charge the owner a big lump of dosh for a few percent - makes sense IMO. The MS362 is a different case - loads on the exhaust, almost nothing on the inlet apart from a big old bevel on the casting that can be significantly reduced. The back end of the piston with the Strato cut outs, reduces the chance of widening it by much more! Should go a fair bit better once done!
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Nope, that one has a tank, my one is an electric motor attached to a small cylinder like the one found on an engine with a pressure release valve. Simply turn it on and two seconds later, you have enough air for a second or two of full pressure air and you just give the part a puff and then give it two seconds and then you have enough for another blast - pretty simple and works just fine with an air gun and line! It is a bit old but does the job:thumbup: Something like this - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRAPER-DA0-1850-1-1KW-OIL-FREE-AIR-COMPRESSOR-/200965873822#ht_368wt_958
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Its a Ferm and think it is 1.5hp but not 100%. It makes noise but if you are cleaning saw parts, you are only using it for a few seconds at a time so no need to have it going for long. If you think about stripping a saw, the covers come off one by one and each one gets a few seconds each as it comes off, the main body gets a good going over but TBH, mine runs for 5-15 secs at the most normally - thats all I need! Between cleaning each part, you turn it off!
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The brake shouldn't stop the saw firing but can stop it starting and idling if it is binding - looks like you have a bearing/binding issue:thumbdown:
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I have a small direct drive no tank compressor for cleaning saws, the good thing is there is no wait for air and it runs for only a few seconds at a time, the bad thing is, you don't get a constant stream of air as you would with a tank but unless you are spraying paint or sand blasting, it will do what you want for a very low price. If you just want a bit of compressed air to clean saws, why pay a fortune - mine was £30 secondhand and has been useful.
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Been working on an MS150, it had a 5mm muffler mod so I did a few test cuts in this tune and then opened up the muffler to 8mm and advanced the ignition timing. The mod is worth 7% gains across an average of three cuts, not as much as I was hoping but thats life! Would have been more interesting comparing with a standard saw. Also got a MS362 in for a full porting, this looks like it has a bit left on the table, the exhaust can be significantly widened unlike the MS361. The uppers can be rolled back but almost nothing on the inlet as it is a strato engine and the piston hinders much widening of the port - possibly 0.75mm either side. The lowers can be matched to the gasket and may open up the crankcase to get a bit more flow - a muffler mod should get this saw running with a bit more gusto:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k279fFMBmts]Stihl MS150 Muffler Mod 5mm - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k279fFMBmts]Stihl MS150 Muffler Mod 5mm - YouTube[/ame]
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You can fit a longer bar - say 16" but you will find that your saw will bog in the cut and make a reasonable saw in to something that will frustrate you. You will notice that the chain on your saw is a 1.1mm gauge where most pro saws use 1.5/1.6mm, there is a reason for this, if you put a larger gauge chain on your saw and it will again bog in the cut. So, IMO - leave it as is, if you need to cut larger wood - buy a larger saw!
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Yeah Rich but will they be upside down as usual:lol: Bigger workshop.....that would be nice:thumbup:
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There should be a flange around the outside of that arm, it is so the arm has a friction fit around the gearing pinion so it wont tear itself apart if the oil pump locks up - it should be able to turn the arm around the plastic bit but with a fair bit of force - if it is too easy, the oiler won't work and is a common fault.....sorry - £12 postage sounds a bit heavy, try L&S engineers - they will be around £3.00 I would imagine!
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Pretty busy but that is always the case, got an MS150 and MS362 in for porting and this big FS360. Hopefully may clear the decks the following weekend - I work on the "if you can't se the workshop floor, you can't send more kit in" theory! Just had an old customer wanting a MS660 sorted and a couple of MS200T refurbs...it never stops:lol:
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Got a FS360 in this week, a Behemoth of brushcutters, lacking compression so pulled the muffler and it revealed a seized engine. Took the cylinder off to reveal a huge slab of aluminium transfer on the exhaust side. Yes, the last image is the same cylinder after cleaning:thumbup: Just shows what you can do if you know what you are doing:lol:
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Sounds like the pump shaft could be tight as it sounds like the clutch is driving the pinion but the gear isn't turning as it should - strip it down to check it.
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Fakenham Market and Auction on Thursday is worth a punt, Holt is a decent place to visit and there is an interesting brickabrack/antiques shop down a back lane on the left facing west off the high street:thumbup: Blickling - never been there but looks fantastic. Letheringsett Mill near Holt is a very interesting visit, the guy who owns it is ex army and a fanatic - does an interesting tour - very informative. Cromer Museum and a trot up the church tower Kings Lynn is a good place to go as well Not got any places to eat - I usually stay further south near Seapalling The Lord Nelson in Burnahm Thorpe did good food many years ago and also Holkham Hall is worth a visit as is Felbrig hall.
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It really worries me that there really are people like JKs "guests" out there. I believe the taxes I pay are keeping them in pies, fags, tatoos and leggings:001_rolleyes:
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The oil pump is situated under the small round cover just under the bar mount - on this saw, it pumps all the time and on revving the saw after idling, it can kick out a fair bit of oil and doesn't have an adjuster. Simplest way of reducing flow is to stick a small piece of smaller diameter tube in the oil outlet hole where it feeds the bar. Other than that, you could modify the pickup filter to reduce flow but not really worth it!
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As Chris said, they aren't available any more!
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I recently ported both saws, the 390XP is like a big 357XP in construction with bottom cylinder fed transfers and the 395XP has the lower transfers in the cylinder wall - same as a MS660 and many others. The 390XP is lighter of the two, the 395XP out cut the 390XP using the same bar and chain - not by loads but it was faster in the cut. Thats all I know.....well sort of:sneaky2:
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Mine tends to be lithium HT thick grease. You are trying to lube the mechanism, buffer the components from thrashing against each other and using something that won't go fluid under heat. Any grease that you would use for wheel bearings or CV joints should be OK, let's face it, any grease is better than no grease but a thicker high teperature one makes sense. £5 for a tub rather than the £15 grease tube Stihl would like you to use! I like the Echo gear boxes, they have grease nipples for all the greasing:thumbup:
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The issue with the Stihl system is that they make their greasing points screw in so you screw in the grease tube and squeeze it in - what is wrong with the typical grease nipple found on most other units is beyond me. The Stihl grease is also an exorbitant price:001_rolleyes: Typically I remove the bottom plate fom hedge cutters and slap in a load of high temperature (HT) bearing grease. I am working on the theory that the trimmer gearbox rotates pretty slow, is industrial in its construction so doesn't need a real specialised grease. It is good enough for car wheel bearings so......... I have also found this - Stihl Compatible Hedge Trimmer/electric chain saw Grease Nipple Attachment | eBay It may help getting the grease in and looks like you just screw it in when greasing is needed. Others may have different views!
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The little end is lubricated by the oil in the fuel, a little two stroke oil or possibly engine oil may be more suitable on rebuilding than grease IMO Not wishing to pick a fight:001_tt2:
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I would look at an older Husky or Stihl but just make sure it is a good runner. The Stihl 024, 021,023 and Husky Ranchers are older and slightly less sought after saws but are still good performers and are solidly built, you may try a 266 Husky if you want a heavier hitter or if you want a more modern saw, the 350 and 345 Huskys are both well made and nice to use - £120 - £150 should get you something that will last and still have a good residual price if you sell!
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<p>Hi Hugh, sorry to hear that, these MS200Ts/020Ts can go haywire even after a full rebuild but am happy to give it a going over again to try to resolve the issues and will only charge return courier and a nominal charge as I don't work like the majority of other repairers out there!</p>
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<p>The fault will NOT be down to the marriage of 020 crankcase and MS200T tank, the parts are interchangeable. It is probably a carb issue as most of the issues with these saws are carb issues and I pressure/Vac tested the machine when I had it in so know this to be good unless a leak has occurred in the time it has been used.</p>
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<p>Have you tried putting the carb back on factory settings - one turn out on each? Also try taking the air filter off and look at the choke flap to make sure it is not staying partially closed - it does happen.</p>
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<p>The "Choking out" is it idling OK, is it not revving out and sounding flubby and rich or just bogging - the better the explanation the better the diagnosis:-)</p>
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<p>Cheers</p>
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<p>Steve</p>
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Rowena Motors, don't be put off by the website, the guys know their business and are very good - they sell Zama, Walbro and Tillson kits at around 1/3rd cheaper than the OEM kits and the kits are the carb manufactures kits.
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No Worries:thumbup: Just finished porting the MS260, there isn't loads you can do here but have done a fair bit including opening up the restrictive muffler. It fires up OK and will tach it and cut some wood in due course.
