spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Grind from the outside in and use diamond files to bevel, the transfers are worked on from the inside!
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It will be worth stripping down as there is probably one component givinng the issue rather than the whole assembly giving issues. One thing to watch out for, there is a small leaf spring that is on the brake that has two thin arms on it, go carefully with this part as it is easy to break the part.....don't ask me how I know:blushing: Part -501 87 47-01 Use the IPL to help - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDIQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h-machine.jp%2Fpart_list%2Fhusqvarna%2F272_1999.pdf&ei=890wUrzyJ6rR7AbmnoDQDA&usg=AFQjCNH7am2sO9GKE9QPRFEDXFAV0ylMFA
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Just measure the piston skirts as they will be your limiting factor and not the maximum allowable size as would be the case for a non windowed piston as fitted to the 346 and 357 husky. The piston should cover the port by a safety margin, not sure if the base gasket can be dropped or not so you will need to measure the squish, the transfers should allow some modification, the uppers will be limited by the ring ends and the lowers can be opened up as can the piston windows. The rest will come from opening up the muffler. You may like to think about how you are going to bevel the ports - if you don't then you may well snag a ring. It is all easy....if you have done a few before:thumbup: PS - the rest you will have to spend time learning as I have:sneaky2:
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Give me a week or two, on holiday at the moment - what happened to the sun:thumbdown:
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I did wonder but didn't want to presume - always worth checking crclips under a bright light and magnifying glass IMO. You live and learn - at least the £150 was a very fair payout and will help will help with the new saw:thumbup:
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You didn't see his thread on the explosive big bote kit, no disrespect to Daniel, it looked like a circlip had failed and the side of the piston had then fractured as the gudgeon pin loosened and came out, a right mess but unsure of the reason of the failure!
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It is damn easy to cock a cylinder up by just taking a dremmel to it. You need to understand the limitations in the original design - usually the ring ends and the size of the piston skirt and then make your modifications around them. To do this well, you need to understand what you are trying to achieve and work within known safe limitations otherwise the saw may at best have short life and at worse, just not work or have some serious engine port issues. The simplest mod is a muffler mod as it changes no significant engine parts and increases flow and power from the engine. Choice is yours, measure twice and cut once:thumbup:
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I have seen the blue type before, the old nitrile type is found on older carbs and tends to be replaced by thinner polyester sheet types nowerdays. If you want an original carb kit, Rowena Motors are the boys to ask, Hugo is the guys name and he is da man as far as carb bits and info are concerned - do not be put off by the crap web site:thumbup:
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Well done bud, well deserved
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What sort of insert? If you were helicoiling it, you may be able to fit a larger indert!
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Now theres a plan! Think being at home on the bench is better than this weather, rough as a badgers arse:lol:
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On holiday in Norfolk, gales and downpours today, well pissed off:thumbdown:
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What is the saw? Don't forget the fuel tank vent, usually found on the opposite side of the fuel cap on the rear handle!
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Possible low compression, the compression drops with the engine getting hotter so can stop the hit saw starting. Worth checking the fuel tank vent - the easy way to check the vent is to loosen the fuel cap and do it back up again to see if it helps starting it. Other than that, check the setting of the L screw on the carb, it may be set a little lean.
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How old do you think I am dude:lol:
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Thought you knew about saws Barrie, don't you know about the magical red gloop and that chains wear through wood with friction......you have so much to learn:001_rolleyes:
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L&S Engineers, Garden Hire Spares, Green Stripe and ebay are normal places and can get most of the general spares for Stihl/Husky from one of these.
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That sort of repair is on par either the McCullochs and Ryobis that come in, they need hours of work but you can't charge a reasonable rate:thumbdown:
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Mmm, the ebay "easy fix".....if it is so easy, why haven't they done it and listed the item as working. Think they mean it is an easy fix if you are a garden equipment mechanic:001_rolleyes:
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Had an MS200T in, the idle screw made zero difference, the H&L screw made little difference and the saw ran like the choke was pretty much on. The welch plug came out freely when I put a shot of carb cleaner down the L screw hole. Have now used my home made punch to pop in a new plug and sealed it off. Also had a 346XPG in that I had ported some time ago - the magnet on the back of the flywheel had disintegrated and deposited itself around the flwheel that had either jammed or the owner had replaced incorectly and had sheared the flywheel key. I fitted a replacement flywheel and bingo - no heated handles but the saw runs again:thumbup:
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<p>Hi Hugh,</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Hope the MS200T is going well, Not really got much ready at the moment, a 345 that is ready to go, seen some life but would do for light to mid groundwork. That is about it, sold a few recently.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sorry and thanks for asking</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Steve</p>
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This isn't fighting, just a bit of friendly banter eh Rich:001_tt2:
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That sounds about right, pretty good for getting a scrap saw up and running again:thumbup:
