spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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On holiday in Norfolk, gales and downpours today, well pissed off:thumbdown:
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What is the saw? Don't forget the fuel tank vent, usually found on the opposite side of the fuel cap on the rear handle!
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Possible low compression, the compression drops with the engine getting hotter so can stop the hit saw starting. Worth checking the fuel tank vent - the easy way to check the vent is to loosen the fuel cap and do it back up again to see if it helps starting it. Other than that, check the setting of the L screw on the carb, it may be set a little lean.
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How old do you think I am dude:lol:
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Thought you knew about saws Barrie, don't you know about the magical red gloop and that chains wear through wood with friction......you have so much to learn:001_rolleyes:
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L&S Engineers, Garden Hire Spares, Green Stripe and ebay are normal places and can get most of the general spares for Stihl/Husky from one of these.
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That sort of repair is on par either the McCullochs and Ryobis that come in, they need hours of work but you can't charge a reasonable rate:thumbdown:
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Mmm, the ebay "easy fix".....if it is so easy, why haven't they done it and listed the item as working. Think they mean it is an easy fix if you are a garden equipment mechanic:001_rolleyes:
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Had an MS200T in, the idle screw made zero difference, the H&L screw made little difference and the saw ran like the choke was pretty much on. The welch plug came out freely when I put a shot of carb cleaner down the L screw hole. Have now used my home made punch to pop in a new plug and sealed it off. Also had a 346XPG in that I had ported some time ago - the magnet on the back of the flywheel had disintegrated and deposited itself around the flwheel that had either jammed or the owner had replaced incorectly and had sheared the flywheel key. I fitted a replacement flywheel and bingo - no heated handles but the saw runs again:thumbup:
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<p>Hi Hugh,</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Hope the MS200T is going well, Not really got much ready at the moment, a 345 that is ready to go, seen some life but would do for light to mid groundwork. That is about it, sold a few recently.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Sorry and thanks for asking</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Steve</p>
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This isn't fighting, just a bit of friendly banter eh Rich:001_tt2:
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That sounds about right, pretty good for getting a scrap saw up and running again:thumbup:
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A saw is a saw, a fix is a fix - always feels Grrreeeaaaattttttt fixing anything:thumbup:
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If it is the two part oil pump and inner clutch cover, the single part number is both parts sold together!
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Did your Aunt have to purchase it through a face to face transaction:lol: Here is one I ported: -
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And I thought you would be a tea and cake man:lol: I didn't mean anything by that, you do a much wider of variety of kit and I specialise in one type specifically - I know enough about business overhead from my manufacturing days - finished us off in the end:thumbdown:
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No, it was probably fine and the dealer has his overheads to pay for - I just have my shed and a liking of cake with my tea:thumbup:
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Group hug.....comeon - even you Rich:thumbup:
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That's quite possible!
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Try manually pushing the throttle arm on the carb shut to see if the throttle mechanism isn't sticking open a little. Some of these cutters have a quadrant the cable runs over peg ore connecting to the carb and it has a t27 screw to take up slack in the cable. Check it isn't holding the throttle open
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Think I will be putting my prices up, usually charge well short of £250 to sort out a seized saw!
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Bloody hell Rich, "buy a Husky, a dodgy Stihl", Dover Times, hold the front page....Rich is coming out of the closet:lol:
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Firstly the H&L screw are 1 turn out each - sometimes the older carbs can be a little finiky to set and seem to like the settings a little on the leaner side but try the standard setting before worrying. The oiler - the very old machines didn't have adjustable oilers, it is possible yours is one of them - you can probably retro fit the adjustable one if you like. The cover - I haven't got a clue what you are talking about - it is the chain adjuster that is on the cover between the bar studs:confused1: Have fun:thumbup:
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Sounds like the clutch springs may be a bit worn, common problem on most saws at sometime in their life. Will cost you around £5 for the springs, you will need to remove the clutch to make changing them easier - it is a left hand thread so turn the clutch clockwise to remove it! You will need to lock the piston in place using a piston stop - use the double ended Stihl one as it wont damage the piston like the steel screw in ones will. Rope down the plug hole also works but the Stihl stop is without doubt a decent too when used correctly. The clutch can be removed with a wrench and socket - you may need a long reach one. Just remove the old ones with long nose pliers or screw driver and put the new ones on by hooking one end on the clutch shoe and use a piece of string round the hook on the other end to give good purchase when stretching it to fit. That should sort it:thumbup:
