spudulike

It wasn't when I was last down there - bloody rained all week and had issues with my waterworks - hoping the next stay is better. It is true what you say though, summer work in drought on some of the bracken moors may well be an issue! I once made my grass smoulder with an old Husky L65 - the exhaust exit blows the hot gasses straight on the ground:blushing:

As others have said, it is for arrid countries where there is a fear that hot carbon will exit the muffler and ignite bracken/grass etc. Over time, the gauze can get blocked with carbon so many people remove the gauze with no ill effect due to our wet country. It will restrict the flow of gasses slightly and I personally, remove the things!

Even my wife said it looked pretty slow, guess she is used to the ported saws I run and tune:thumbup:

Can't say I have needed anything like that in my dealings with the saw. Possibly for pulling the clutch springs off, can't see it would help with the limit cap on the H screw which is always a sod. Pushing off the filler cap connectors possibly:confused1: It looks like a carving chisel! Bugger - too late - I use a length of string and make sure the brake is off!

The tech will be able to tell whether it is the plating that has worn, whether the saw has ingested chip/dust or nipped up through leanrunning/bad fuel/air leak etc. 18 months is nothing, I would be concerned about the saw after the repair if a route cause isn't found! What colour was the plug?

I would say that as long as the cylinder and crank bearings are sound, the saw should give good life after a bit of a refurb. Crank seals can be replaced, if worn the saw can have uneven idle and can hang on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut. The biggest issue is generally the carb, there are a number off issues that can happen and the accelerator pump is just one of them. Do the mod and it effectively turns the carb back to one from an 020T - not quite the case as the design internally is slightly different but very similar. There are other parts I check and sort out if faulty and generally resolve the common pickup, idle and max revs issues. If the saw is low on compression then a new piston will bring the saw back to life - the wear is normally on the piston and the cylinder is generally OK unless the thing has seized or ingested woodchip. I have returned many of these saws back from the brink of death and if they still play up after my work, all I do is dig in harder and do the last stage of work free of charge as it is generally carb related - it happens but not too often! A new 020T carb may be the way to go - never fitted a new carb in my time but is easier for the novice! If the crank bearings are shot, they can be replaced as long as the crank journals are not worn! That's my take on this - I have had some right old wrecks in my time - even bags of bits and all ended up running! PS - Rich is right about the oil leak and the leaking crank seal symptoms. Smokey running is generally down to an overly rich mix!

It depends on the squish it already has, you need at least 0.5mm otherwise due wear and tear may result in the piston belting the squish band. The sealer needs to withstand 200 degrees plus. Blue Hylomar is fine as are many others, just look at the spec.

Thanks Barrie, my wife always says I am a different man when working in the man cave

Nice one Andy:thumbup1:

No worries:lol:

Nah, it really isn't my style, I just offer a service that I would hope others would offer me if I needed it - I really don't go asking for praise, just like to know what I do is appreciated and the customers is happy - pretty simple really. It is good to know what I do makes a real difference and the help and advice I & others offer helps Arbtalk members in their jobs.

The one I did had the ignition tweak and I enlarged the already modded muffler but TBH, the muffler mod gave the biggest difference. They are a nice little saw and can see that in their modded state cutting 6-8" timber is very possible rather than 4" as standard. I think I put the vids up on "Whats on my bench" And lads - this is getting a bit embarassing - glad er indoors can't see it

Always a pleasure and have never had any issues with Arbtalkers - good comms always means the owner is in touch with the costs and arrangements so no unexpected costs at the last moment:thumbup:

Mmmm, isn't he:001_rolleyes:

It isn't quite like that and have to be a little careful in what I say but I would be happy to run this as a business but timing is everything and there are firm reasons as to why I haven't made this move yet. Many people run a day job and a pastime as a part time business and the switchover will be based on many criteria and timing is crucial in many cases. Rich - mail me if you really want to know the exact reasons but it isn't really for broadcasting online - I am sure you understand!

I am feeling humbled through all this praise, thanks all, always a pleasure:thumbup:

Thank the Lord:thumbup:

No worries, I know this year hasn't been an easy one for you and try to help out the best I can and be charitable where possible. This saw was really bad, you unfortunately got, well and truly done over on it but it is now fine and should give good service. If you hot your other saw off the same guy, throw it in the local canal:lol: Otherwise it will be a pleasure:thumbup:

Bet it made both your eyes smart and the language blue at the time:thumbdown:

Clean the carbon off the squish band and the top of the piston and it can be removed completely. This should give another 15 - 20 psi but if measuring with a gauge, give the engine a few light turns with the starter before yanking it over hard. The mod can take out the gauge schrader valve very easily:blushing: Use a high temp liguid gasket to seal the base and I personally check vac and pressure afterwards:thumbup: Worth opening up the Muffler exhaust hole as well, a very easy mod to do with a dremmel:thumbup:

It will be friction between the clutch and the drum, possibly a worn needle bearing, crap in the clutch drum or twine round the crank shaft. You will need to remove the drum, clutch and bearing, clean and inspect the parts and replace. Also check the clutch springs are OK.

Done similar testing a saw for spark, a good way to take the hairs off your arms and cheaper than waxing:blushing: Makes men - men does that:thumbup:

Ask Gardenkit (Barrie) on htis site, he is an agent for Mitox and does rate them - you do get what you pay for but these saws seem to bridge the gap between the top brands and the cheap poop out there! You will get unbiased opinion from GK so no worries there.

As Andy says, 50:1 - modern oils are far better now than they were in the 1980s so 50:1 is normal now. As far as the bar goes, 15" would be my choice and 18" maximum, anything else would be pretty sluggish and boggy with this saw.