spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Always a pleasure and have never had any issues with Arbtalkers - good comms always means the owner is in touch with the costs and arrangements so no unexpected costs at the last moment:thumbup:
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Mmmm, isn't he:001_rolleyes:
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It isn't quite like that and have to be a little careful in what I say but I would be happy to run this as a business but timing is everything and there are firm reasons as to why I haven't made this move yet. Many people run a day job and a pastime as a part time business and the switchover will be based on many criteria and timing is crucial in many cases. Rich - mail me if you really want to know the exact reasons but it isn't really for broadcasting online - I am sure you understand!
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<p>Hi Chris</p>
<p>The usual method is either to drop it off or to send it in by courier, the common places to try are inteparcel, parcel monkey, Ipostparcels and parcelforce.</p>
<p>Better PM me with when you need it looked at, I am not around for a week later this month but can sort something out.</p>
<p>Steve</p>
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I am feeling humbled through all this praise, thanks all, always a pleasure:thumbup:
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Thank the Lord:thumbup:
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No worries, I know this year hasn't been an easy one for you and try to help out the best I can and be charitable where possible. This saw was really bad, you unfortunately got, well and truly done over on it but it is now fine and should give good service. If you hot your other saw off the same guy, throw it in the local canal:lol: Otherwise it will be a pleasure:thumbup:
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Bet it made both your eyes smart and the language blue at the time:thumbdown:
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Clean the carbon off the squish band and the top of the piston and it can be removed completely. This should give another 15 - 20 psi but if measuring with a gauge, give the engine a few light turns with the starter before yanking it over hard. The mod can take out the gauge schrader valve very easily:blushing: Use a high temp liguid gasket to seal the base and I personally check vac and pressure afterwards:thumbup: Worth opening up the Muffler exhaust hole as well, a very easy mod to do with a dremmel:thumbup:
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It will be friction between the clutch and the drum, possibly a worn needle bearing, crap in the clutch drum or twine round the crank shaft. You will need to remove the drum, clutch and bearing, clean and inspect the parts and replace. Also check the clutch springs are OK.
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Done similar testing a saw for spark, a good way to take the hairs off your arms and cheaper than waxing:blushing: Makes men - men does that:thumbup:
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Ask Gardenkit (Barrie) on htis site, he is an agent for Mitox and does rate them - you do get what you pay for but these saws seem to bridge the gap between the top brands and the cheap poop out there! You will get unbiased opinion from GK so no worries there.
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As Andy says, 50:1 - modern oils are far better now than they were in the 1980s so 50:1 is normal now. As far as the bar goes, 15" would be my choice and 18" maximum, anything else would be pretty sluggish and boggy with this saw.
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Sounds like the first firing has been missed and subsequent pulls have flooded the saw. Personally I use a mixture of ideas of what others have said. Firstly take the plug out, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast for 10 times until fuel stops dripping out of the plug hole and heavy vapour stops blasting out. At this point, get the plug nice and hot on a gas hob (make sure er indoors is out) or use a gas torch, pull the choke out and push it all the way back in, put the plug back in and pull it over fast and all being well, it will start. It is possible the carb needle has stuck open and is flooding the engine and stopping it working but give the above method a go - the hot plug helps vapourise the fuel and aids ignition - holding the throttle open can aid the starting as well. Oh - DON'T USE THE DECOMP WHEN DOING THE ABOVE - it will help starting to have full compression. Good luck, it will be a good saw....trust me:thumbup:
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I would try to keep the barrel unless it is: - 1) Badly Scored 2) Port edges are chipped/damaged 3) Plating is worn through to the aluminium I would fit a quality Meteor or Episan piston - Piston Kit fit HUSQVARNA 181, 281 XP (52mm) [#503502702] | eBay I would also very lightly hone the bore to allow the piston to bed down - this should get the saw back to decent performance. If the cyinder is worn then you have to either fit a CHinese kit with OEM rings and circlips or source the Husqvarna one.....unless there is a Meteor one available - they are pretty good!
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You need part 503 89 96-71 and the Jonsered 2149 and the Husqvarna both share the same piston. I would try to purchase a Meteor piston from the Greek or Latvian guy off ebay, they are both reliable sellers and the pistons they sell are better than the Chinese ones and worth the money. Look at my thread (Whats on your bench) for further details on this sort of repair - the transfered aluminium MUST be 100% removed from the cylinder before rebuilding the saw. If the scores in the plating are light then salvage the OEM part - it will be well worth it.
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I have become a fuel tank sniffer:blushing: Only way to tell what the owner has been using:thumbup:
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Hi Barrie - I wouldn't mind a few of these stickers, I do a number of conversions and retunes - one recently came back from a dealer with conventional fuel/oil in it with the owner being ticked off for using neat fuel:blushing: I guess around 15 if you have them. You are a decent fella:thumbup:
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Can you grind/file a suitable socket - last time I used a scwrench on one, the screwdriver bit came off - drilled a hole through it, pushed it through and brazed it back:lol: Those old clutches can be pretty hard to shift, could try a little heat and oil!
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Funny, I was wondering what happened to them - that 254XP was a bit shocking when I started it up after modding compared to before, it picked up so damn fast and sounded pretty urgent:thumbup: The 357XP was one of my tried and tested mods - quite a few out there and still going strong:thumbup: Thanks for the feedback - always good to know how well any work I do ends up:thumbup1:
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Couple of trees down near me in North Herts, nothing like 1987 though thankfully, that was savage!
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A bit of both, lots of very worn parts everywhere you look, you repair one and find another Grrrrr. No Martin, not my saw!
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Back to the MS650 I had in for a service and had a dodgy oiler, I found this saw to be one of those ex British Alcan saws used for cutting ally billets:thumbdown: The oiler has been replaced as has the pinion, clutch springs and the clutch side crank seal - got to run it up and tached it. Afterwards it wouldn't start and compression was iffy, it had measured 150 and in 10 minutes of running had dropped to 120psi:thumbdown: Pulled the cylinder and the reason is pretty clear - very bad wear on the plating - right through to the aluminium on both ports. A new OEM P&C kit is out of the question so will fit a new aftermarket with OEM rings and circlips and check out the cylinder thoroughly before fitting it to make sure it has a good chance of lasting. This has been a bitch of a saw to fix:001_rolleyes:
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If you like the 345, as I do as it was my first proper saw, the ones to look for are 345 & 350 in the home owner/semi pro range or the 346XP from the pro range. The 346XP feels just like the 345 but is more solid having alloy crankcases and a typical Husqvarna pro build plus it will pull harder in the cut. Earlier models were 45cc and can be seen by their orange clutch cover, later models were nicknamed "Silverside" and had a 50cc engine with a silver clutch cover. They are pretty reliable saws but make sure that the piston and pot are original when you buy one.
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Yes......but that pickup - brings a smile to my face every time - open up the exhaust hole by X2 for more fun:thumbup:
