spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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MO problems Rich, probably carb issues and will try to get them done for your return journey:thumbup:
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I'm feeling a little light headed:blushing: Thanks Chaps:thumbup:
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Sounds like good advice:thumbup:
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I have the details of coil and flywheel pairing for this saw buy not with me, will advise once home on Friday. The coil having no marking makes me suspect it is an aftermarket one. This nay have fixed ignition timing and may be causing issues. The 064 has a fixed advance coil as standard making them a bit interesting to pull over. It may be better to fit the later one that has the variable advance.
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I use a long reach socket that is slightly smaller than the seal diameter to push the deal in to place. A tap with a mallet helps if tight!
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Nice question, I have a few pullers, mostly unconventional to the ones you show. I used a ball joint splitter on the last 254 I did, bit of a job but it worked. It may be worth: fabricating a puller or at least some extensions that will cope with bearings and bushes etc.
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Sounds like the saw has issues with spark, fuel or compression. 064s do have quite a kick, down to having no retard on the ignition coil. Sounds like the saw needs a good going over to make sure the carb is operating correctly, the coil to flywheel gap is correct and the compression is OK., it may be the flywheel key but is difficult to get wrong. The kick you are feeling is the ignition firing early on advance to TDC and is normal, what isn't normal is the saw not starting.
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Not sure I do either:lol:
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The MS200 has lots of end float on the crank due to the type of crank shaft bearings. The rollers actually rotate on the crank itself, a little like needle bearings so nothing to stop the float on the crank. Larger saws use ball races where the outer race is held by the crankcase and the inner is pushed on to the crank shaft so there will be close to zero end float on this type of design. If you have float, the bearings are worn!
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Why, what is it, a bow saw:lol:
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There shouldn't be any end float on the crank as the bearings are a tight fit on the crank. Worth looking at the seals and worth seeing if leaning the L screw a little may help!
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Always on here bud, hope the saw runs OK now:thumbup:
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Nice one Barrie, well spotted, The holes in the muffler baffle can carbon up as well with similar results.
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stihl 4 mix hedge cutter engines- flooding of filter issue
spudulike replied to likeitorlumpit's topic in Maintenance help
Not being funny but can't you cut the breather pipe from the airfilter housing and stick a breather from a MS200T in the pipe:confused1: I can't believe the German engineers have got it wrong, it must be designed to leak:001_rolleyes: Perhaps one of you should set one of these on fire in the back of your waggon, film yourself using a fire extinguisher on it, stick it on Youtube and wait for the product recall......and yes, I am a cynic:thumbup: -
Blimey Barrie, are you slowly going crazy in that workshop of yours old boy, next you will be walking round looking for the glasses that are perched on the end of your nose:001_rolleyes:
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Thats the little fecker - the later ones are stainless so don't wear but the early ones are plated brass and do. Should be OK unless the bore is worn. That is if the pump is the real route cause:blushing:
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I know, I just try to hit a keen price point when doing these repairs and know adding £100 to my repair bill would cause most to scrap the machine. Each to his own and no disrespect......I can't fit a ride on in my workshop like yourself so much of my work is with scrappers:blushing:
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The 350 is something of a hybrid, the bottom of the crankcase is formed from the plastic that creates the lower crankcase itself, the 350 then has an upper crankcase formed by an alloy spacer that holds the crank bearings and also forms the platform for the cylinder to fit on, a bit like cutting a 1" slab off the bottom of a conventional clam type cylinder. Long and short, the 350 will take a flat bottomed cylinder from a 346!
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Yeah, one big softee I am - there are a couple of things I found in doing this that can total the carb but I learn't the hard way and have the knowledge to avoid/repair the issues - you will need to get me very drunk to tell you more:sneaky2::lol: This fix is also NOT a silver bullet, there are other issues with these carbs that can cause running problems - I have probably given you these sometime in the past:thumbup:
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Picture looks like a Poulan to me - sounds like a pile of poo to me:001_rolleyes:
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On an old bar I have 7.90mm slot width, on a brand new chain I have a gauge of 1.25mm and that is for a 1.3mm gauge bar!
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It is somewhere on this site on the cahinsaw section and I think on this thread also - it is basically taking the thing out and then sealing it back in with epoxy or some just take the plug out of the back and just seal that but personally do both as taking the pump spring out relieves tension on the throttle valve shaft and prevents wear.
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The smart money is on the one behind the rubber connector the oil pump pushes in to......and not the pickup pipe end:001_rolleyes: Just pop the rubber bung out and remove the last bolt:thumbup:
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Yes - 150psi on a well used but healthy MS200, typically 170psi on a little used low hours one. What was the bit about bar slots and teeth - I am guessing you want the diameter of the bar stud......for which saw and the teeth:confused1: What are you trying to achieve?
