spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Not good but at least the visor caught the worst of it. Probably worth sharing how you think it happened - did the upper quadrant of the nose sprocket catch - good to learn from others experiences and hope it heals soon!
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I can say that legaly, the neighbour has no right to get the trees reduced, they can claim for any damage or debris that has to be removed from gutters etc or for root damage etc. They can cut back any branches and roots over their boundary but if it makes the trees unsafe then it is their liabillity. Great thing garden law - lets pay the lawyers a fortune for not too much work! Has the chimney got a decent cowl on it? I think it would be reasonable thing to request before spending a fortune on tree work - this is ours - Downdraught Chimney Pot - Twin Wall Flue Cowl - Buy Online ? Windkat Chimney Cowls Next door but one reckons it looks like a Darlek:lol: Also, if the chimney gets cold, it can often take a while to draw and needs heat in it before it works OK - this is the issue we had and it was resolved by the new cowl! What happens if it is caused by a neighbours roof design - knock his house down:001_rolleyes: Perhaps my old neighbour has moved house:001_rolleyes:
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Short answer...NO:001_rolleyes: Whats the point - most people overcome it by holding the throttle open and pulling the saw over hard - I, like you, replace the part and as you say....£3 - get over it, just fit the new part - they do last years in most cases!
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Sounds like the start of what forced me to move house a few years back, neighbour was an end of a bell, said he had spent hours clearing pin needles from our pine tree and that the gnats around it may do him serious damage. He was a right male chicken IMO, neighbours.... Not too bad up here - think they all owe me favours now - thats the way I like it:thumbup:
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Few words of advice, make sure the brake is on when you put the operating spring on, it will make it easier. When you put the internal plastic cover on, before you do the internal cover screws up fully, put the chain brake off so it sits squarely round the front screw. when you push the btake handle and the three art link on to the locating dowels, push the leaf spring downwards so the handle pushes home.
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I fitted a damn expensive German WindKat cowl, gotta say that it works a treat and solved many of our bad draft problems! Got mine off eBay and fitted myself - electric angle grinder 40' up on the roof cutting the top of the chimney off. They do have some funky fitting options!
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PM GardenKit, it is a C1Q something or other. He may be able to assist:thumbup:
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I have an old Dolmar stone cutter that has some sort of air filter a bit like your K&N one, not sure if it would have fitted your 166! Make sure you check your high speed carb setting.
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Never realised Jack Daniels did ride on mowers
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If it was mine I would fit a new one, crank down the clutch and than use a thin screwdriver to make sure the oiler arm turns freely. I think GardenKit and I have put forward two reasonable issues that may have caused the problem - both will have the effect of locking the pinion in place and the oiler arm spining round the pinion thus melting it:thumbdown: Don't just refit the new one, check the oiler gear and shaft are turning in the actual oiler and then make sure you do the above - if you are sensible and approach it logically - the issue will be found and resolved:thumbup:
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Just took the base gasket out and bingo, a nice lot of compression - you could do a pop up but the cost would be prohibitive on anything but a saw for anyone wanting to spend a much larger lump of dosh! The porting is pretty limited - piston windows can be enlarged, the exhaust port can be widened but wouldn't recommend modding the inlet port! The muffler can be drilled to good effect.
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Looks like your oil pump gear and shaft are binding as the arm on the worm drive has slipped and melted the thing.
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It's alright Andy, I will port your pacemaker:lol:
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Just got the MS200T back together - one I am doing for resale. The carb has had a full going over and the accelerator pump and a few other fixes applied. A light tuning has seen the compression rise dramatically - how does 200psi on a warm engine grab you?? Normally they pull 150 and possibly 170psi on a good one - looks like it may pull well on a 12":thumbup:
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Generally it depends if you can do the work yourself, what the spare parts cost and if you can't do the work - what someone will charge you to do the work. Generally if the crank bearings or crank are shot on an older saw, it can make economical repair touch and go. You need to really check the bearings out and if OK, check the cylinder bore out, if the bore is OK and the plating isn't worn through, a full refurb and new piston will breath new life in to an older saw. Using non OEM parts can save a few bucks but you need to take care it isn't a false economy on important parts that are not easy to access. Hope that helps a little
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I reckon using a metal plate screwed to the crack with some sealant between the tank and plate Just bear in mind that any leaking fuel is a fire hazzard!
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always a pleasure:001_rolleyes:
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I don't reckon Petro Patch will work, plastic welding is probably the best bet, screwing and gluing on a thin metal patch may be an option. Of the sealents I have used, "Seal All" came up best for petrol leaks.
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Take the clutch off - spin it clockwise to do this, remove the clutch drum and bearing, three screws and remove the dual side cover, remove the worm drive, remove the two retaining bolts on the pump and pull it off the oil channel connector block and remove the pipe. Make sure the same oil pump retaining screws are used to fit the pump back on as if you use longer ones, you will punch a hole in to the inner crank case:thumbdown:
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Yes Rich.....you did didn't you - think I will run a phone service help line as well! The worm drives rarely wear and the pickup pipe filter or plugged pump are the usual suspects:thumbup: If these parts are fine then the pumps do wear to the point they stop working:thumbdown:
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Not a bad idea, the carb may need a little tweak after fitting but if you are doing a fair bit of dead dusty wood or have concerns then it is a good option. Most that come in have either the two stage like you have or this filter - just keep it clean
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The secondary filter is a good idea and so is regularly cleaning the filter out - seen many saws come in for porting with caked up filters - Stubbys wasn't one of them:thumbup: The inner filter can be cleaned with carb cleaner - a compressor is an excellent tool to do it well. The saw will be OK with a light ingress of dust but if it gets heavier, it will take the plating off the cylinder.
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It has probably worn down but L&S engineers are pretty good on Stihl parts or try one of the sponsors on this site if you want to pick up the phone!
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A running enqine needs compression, spark and fuel. Sounds like compression is OK so pull it over a bit and see if the plug is wet and also check the spark but keep it away from the plug hole as you can get some great flames out of the plug hole if it is blowing vapour. Once you know which bit isn't there then it could be a multitude of things but you have to start somewhere.
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Well, in a Close of five houses, three have had saws of me:thumbup: I do keep the ported kit for weekdays or Saturdays - no Sundays. They do get used out and about, just pulled a load of Ash out of a ditch from the last storm for firewood - nice haul and the 357XP was as good as ever - blindingly fast:thumbup: Glad the MS460 is going well, not sure why the 350 should be boggy, they are quite peaky saws by nature so will be better on a narrow kerf 15" than a longer bar. The 372XPs are a tried and tested formulae - always good to do!
