spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It will probably do the job - 1/2 second refresh makes the job easier and there is no mention of this and not having to wrap the wire round the spark plug lead is a feature of the more expensive models but have used th ewire type and they do work. The Chinese pots are generally not machined to such tight a tolerance, the plating can be pitted/thin, the rings can be brittle, the base of the cylinders are sometimes not machined, the top of the pistons are sometimes rough cast, the inner flanks of the gudgeon pin holes are often not machined, the piston can be a sloppy fit in the bore, the squish can sometimes be well over spec and you may get lucky:thumbup: You do get what you pay for - I usually try to salvage the original cylinder - The cylinder kit I got was Meteor and imported from Baileys in the USA.
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The 357XP has a 46mm bore as standard. The idle needs to be adjusted to around 2,900rpm and the max revs to around 13,500rpm, if you can't tach the saw then set the idle so the saw doesn't die and also doesn't spin the chain and set the H screw to 1 & 1/2 turns out and turn in until the saw clears but still sounds slightly "flubby" four stroking at the top end. The Chinese kits may be OK for a home owner or as a back up saw but if it is a primary saw, I would personally avoid - you can get good kits but many are poor in construction in comparison to the OEM part. Meteor do make very good after market pistons and have fitted one of their kits which worked fine.
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The pin is a gudgeon pin or wrist pin if in the US. it is held in place with circlips that can be little mothers to remove - just be damn sure when you fit the new piston that the circlips are in the groove in the piston otherwise the circlip will spring out and mash your cylinder. You will also need to ensure the arrow is pointing toward your exhaust port and make sure the ring ends are in the same position as the original as I have known Chinese pistons to have arrows pointing in the wrong direction. The lug - try and drill and pin it - JB won't hold it, I have pop rivited and pinned parts before but without seeing it......or by a pattern part if you can find one or secondhand unit. As far as pistons go, in order of best first OEM (original equipment), Meteor, Episan, Golf, Chinese. With rings - OEM, Caber, Chinese....I have known Chinese rings to fail and to do severe damage.
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The bearings are strange looking bearings that look like this - http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mzRSROUcHRbXp44mbLp_GpQ.jpg I ment needle roller bearing but the needles are more like rollers tham ball races. Got them both sides, exactly the same.
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Should be OK, I would fit new bearings and seals as the busted crank end may have put undue stress on the bearing. If the replacement crank is still in the crankcases then make sure the thing isn't worn where the bearings run on it. The MS200 is unusual where the bearings are roller type and run actually on the crank shaft itself and the one on the clutch side can suffer due to operators overtightening the chain:thumbdown:
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Fit either the OEM ones or Caber rings - the Chinese ones can be brittle and snag which isn't good:thumbdown:
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Blimey Rich, in agreement at long last - that is exactly what I meant, start at factory, wind in the L screw until the saw races as the mix becomes lean and then take it out until the idle flattens out - not easy to explain simply but anyone that has done a lot of this will recognize the procedure:thumbup: Cheers:thumbup:
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From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
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From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
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From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
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From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
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From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
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The standard setting is one turn out on each, the L screw is then adjusted to the correct point after winding it in to highest revs and then turning it out again and the H screw is set with a tach - would look at 13,200 as sensible on a new pot and piston.
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In a word...Yes, the compression will be completely different so both H&L screws plus idle speed will need doing. Expect to adjust the idle again over a few days running and to tune the mix again after 20 tanks. Best to tune it a bit fat on the top end whilst running it in!
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Take the exhaust off and check the piston front through the exhaust port to make sure the saw hasn't seized. I would advise mixing smaller volumes of fuel or using Aspen - can't believe I got in before Garden kit:lol: Other than that, it sounds like your fuel pipes, filters, tank vent and carb may need an overhaul if it still runs badly with new fuel and you have checked the piston! Good luck
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One tip, take out the rubber part the oil pump pushes in to when splitting the crankcases, there is a bolt most miss when splitting the cases. Oh, two tips:lol:The bearings only go on ONE way, the plastic part goes to the outside! Everything else is simple:blushing:
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Pretty common getting saws in with air filters that look like digestive biscuits:001_rolleyes: it is amazing the number of people that want their saws tuned and ported but their air filters come in clogged up with chip:lol:
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Of course I do service many other brands of saw and do have a McCulloch on the bench at the moment, I wish I hadn't but it is one I sold a couple of years ago:blushing: Oiler had failed, got that sorted, rebuilt the recoil which then failed when the saw wouldn't start a week after returning it - rebuilt it again and slotted the carb adjusters and cleaned the carb. It now starts and runs...and oils a little too liberally:lol: Just winding you up Rich - you know how it is:thumbup: Oh - the recoil spring, this one was difficult - 1 & 1/2 tracks on absolute 80s this time:001_tt2:
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The theory is that full chisel depends on a single point of cut that needs to be kept sharp and the semi chisel has a rounded point of cut meaning the cutting load is spread a little around its circumference and will therefore take a little more abuse then the full chisel before it craps out! Novices also find semi chisel easier to sharpen than full chisel down to the design of the cutter and the system being more forgiving. For the record, I have tested a new Microlite Pro bar and 95VPX chain against a Stihl full chisel on a full kerf bar and the Oregon system came out 15% faster - and that is what their adverts also claim! It is a fast cutter but probably not up to the duress of pro cutting all day long! Anyway - you are both right - keep the peace:001_rolleyes::lol:
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Try being a techie, most guys try to show interest but think most of what I say goes over peoples heads, you can tell as the eyes glaze over - as long as the saws start when you pull the handle, they are happy:001_rolleyes:
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Good job Ben, looks nice, informative and done with a nice everyday approach. Hope it brings in some work for you once live.
