spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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MS341, taken apart to port, the first thing is the piston has a forward facing ring location pin (arrowed) leaving no room to open the exhaust port up so just took the carbon off it. The cylinder is open port and there was mee thinking it would be closed port:001_rolleyes: You can see the crankcase is flowed a little where the transfer ports end. The inlet was widened a bit, the base gasket can't be removed to decrease squish as the piston would clout the cylinder so opened up the gasket where it was impinging the transfer ports and opened up the piston windows. A muffler mod will be done soon.
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Not sure where you are going with this one Rich, the ones I have done in this way, I guess you could do it with the fuel tank in place or strip the cylinder off the machine but the way I describe works fine for me....each man to his own as they say!
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It's one thing having spares and another fitting the thing! OK if he is good with the tools but not so good if he needs another to do it! Possibly someone has tried to remove the clutch without realising it has a right hand thread!
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I am in North Herts, just off the A1m, if you get totally knackered, you can send kit through the post using one of the courier services - usually £10 each way. One tip, bring the piston up to cover the exhaust port and stuff some tissue in the thing before drilling - it may get messy if you dont:blushing:
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I have done a few now, as Rich says, try the stud extractor route and see if that works, don't break the extractor in the hole otherwise it will be a devil to remove being hardened. If the thread is bad then helicoils effect a good repair and if it gets really bad then I have used inserts to good effect - 8mm tapped hole and screw in. Got a few pictures on "whats on by bench" thread - it is best to remove the top handle and fuel tank to get to it!
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Sometimes boiling the rubber in water softens and swells the pipe enough to form a seal!
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I prefer mine in a white sauce......but back to the issue, are you sure the fuel is coming from the carb? Leaking fuel lines/tank connector, breather/vent, tank cap etc can cause fuel leaks but if it is coming out of the carb then a faulty needle valve/diaphragm/ metering arm may be causing the issues!
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Not had one myself but try fitting a new pipe and if that doesn't do it, degrease all parts and use some "seal all" on the connection.
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The top end mix can be a bit fat from the factory from new to let the piston bed in, your saws would be worth retuning IMO
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How are you doing on this Morten? Anything found out yet?
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Yet another MS200T in for a refurb and port - came in running but lacking power in the cut. Got most of the work done, carb has been thoroughly cleaned under heat and ultrasonics, done one fix that can stop issues and will see how it performs once back together. Also have a MS341....yes Rich, I know it is a Stihl:001_rolleyes: don't get too excited:lol: It is in for porting and a muffler mod. Squish is about as low as it should be from standard so no gain here. Construction is pretty standard - no strato ports etc so a fairly straight forward tune I hope - first one I have done - the muffler is sealed but reckon a large front exit pipe and enlarging the holes in the baffle plate will get it going a bit plus the porting will increase breathing a little!
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Funny you should say that, I am broad shouldered:lol: Too busy go take the time go be insulted, Petes a brave man seeing that I have his long reach trimmer in at the moment.....what sort of box do you want all the bits put in to:001_tt2: The final bill depends on attitude, knocked a bit off Stubbys:thumbup: now Peters.....let me think.....
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The loudest saw I have come across - the muffler was a real nice job, no intrnal baffles and two real big exits:thumbup: Cheers for the use of the log pile and your time Matty, got the job done! Reckon Stubbys would go faster with a nylon filter though:lol:
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Been a while since I have rolled "in to stage" with one of those lights - you should bring your mower up to Santa Pod - only 20 miles north of me:thumbup:
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You should be able to retire soon Barrie, what with that lot! I guess the grass cutting season has been extended down to the weather and is only just now slowing down. Don't knock it - all good for business:thumbup:
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Old Huskys are called SE for standard and SG have heated handles, later ones are XP for Xtra power or Pro saws and XPG have heated handles. If yours had an SG recoil cover, it must have been from another saw!
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I think the expression is - Pride becomes before a fall:blushing: The Husky is worth £250 - £300 and looks pretty clean to me - not as sexy as the 346XP NE but still a good logging saw! Stihl, Husky....take your pick - both have good saws in their range but the 346 V 026....I know which one I would pick up and it didn't come from Germany:001_tt2:
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£70 - flippin ek Rich, an old fella as well - surprised he didn't croak it there and then:lol: Just a word of advice, any Husky with clips holding on the top cover are Pro models and hold a premium! There are a few exceptions where the main cover is screwed on but the filter cover will be clipped - that is from the 3 series onwards. £70:001_rolleyes::lol: him a pensioner as well, did you manage to pinch his wallet on the way out:001_tt2: Nice to see a bit of quality on your bench at last:thumbup:
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Sorry dude, you are nearer to the US than me:lol: Only come across the Nova unit on AS!
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Thanks guys, always a pleasure to do work for you both and nice easy transactions all round. Glad you are happy with the job Andy and that the "Caravan Club" didn't have the saw away:001_rolleyes::lol:
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Cheers Peter, your saws are enough of a challenge as they are! On the mouse front, try plugging in the wireless receiver of your mouse in to a colleagues PC and waggle it now and then - it really gets on their tits. The other laugh we have is with this - Best Text-to-Speech Demo: Create Talking Avatars and Online Characters | SitePal TTS Demo just type in insults or answers to questions and let your PC do the talking to your colleagues:thumbup:
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Someone had to ask:lol:.....I spend a bit of time thinking about ways of improving saws, as Rich says - easy to know the theory but more difficult to actuate it. If you want to see an ignition tweak in action - MattyFs 395XP on whats on my bench thread had an ignition advance mod......along with a lot of other modification! It went rather well in the vid:thumbup:
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Oh dear - here we go again:001_rolleyes: in the early days, saws had contact breakers and coils, this then developed to a coil and a lump of electronics in a small can that picked up when the spark should be generated and this lump of electronics eventually ended up within the coil itself. Latterly this spark generator within the coil ended up having built in advance but that is another story. The Nova unit is a replacement, I believe, for the early contact breaker saws. I think Wisecobandid may be from the US where the Nova unit is more available! Please correct if needed
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It can help a saw, it can slow down a saw, Brad has done a flywheel key mod on MS201s and has had a good improvement. The theory is that it can improve low compression engines and stifle high compression engines. It can also hinder flat out revs if it is done too much, it can also cause detonation if done too much but lowering the squish can help reduce detonation for obvious reasons. I did my own 066 once and too much - it idled and reckoned if I had given it a fistful, I would have bent the con rod - I was around 33 degrees advance at idle. It is an intricate mod - easy if you know what you are doing and know how to measure the ignition degrees with a degree wheel and piston stop. Welcome to my world - you did ask:thumbup: Surprised no one has mentioned plugging the strato holes yet:001_rolleyes:
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I warn owners of this if they ask about me modding their saws - a very good point!
