spudulike
-
Posts
14,812 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
Possible blocked high speed check valve or low speed injectors but could also be a leaking Welch plug!
-
The pullers work better on larger seals, I cut through the rubber part and then select the jaws with the largest lip that can be pushed in. I also crank up the screws to make them really tight on the seal. They can work really well or be a bit of a PITA on smaller seals!
-
It's gone the same way as your 084 Ben, glad you survived and no one was hurt - think you need a bit more than a tube of JB weld on that one:lol: Good luck in getting it repaired!
-
I recently warned a local guy off a four mix long reach, all is fine if they are running perfectly but IMO, the two stroke is so simple, no moving parts in the port timing so are generally very reliable and very simple to work on. Good luck with it:thumbdown:
-
Second on that, they are very helpful:thumbup:
-
Just haven't got round to doing the timed cuts, got the rim, the chain and bar but no time...story of my life:001_rolleyes: Good to see some of the US guys showing an interest in what we are up to:thumbup:
-
It sounds like your gauge is manufactured for car engines and not small bore kit. It should have a light sprung schrader valve in the end of the gauge - the Gunson one is very good! It is Muriatic acid and it is the old school name for Hydrochloric acid - this works fine and a strong alkalie will have the same effect!
-
Got a red cover off a Jonnie 2165 - any good?
-
Blimey, not this one again....if you are using Oregon power rim then just change the rim drive. If you are using OEM clutch drum then you may need to change the drum, rim and oiler! I have considered 3/8 but would need to do timed cuts to see how 3/8 performs!
-
Normal compression for one of these saws is 150 - 170psi, mine pulls 200psi but is lightly tuned:blushing: Wear gloves and eye protection when messing with acid:thumbup:
-
Personally I would get a can of carb cleaner, remove both top and bottom carb covers, blast a bit of carb cleaner on to both sides of the carb, remove the L & H screw, blast some cleaner down both holes and make sure you get a healthy stream out of the jets in the diaphragm section of the carb and also make sure you get a good spurt out of the high speed check valve and low speed injector holes when spraying the cleaner in to the respective H and L screw holes, reassemble and use L screw one turn out and H screw 1 & 1/2 turns out and see how that goes. Worth checking the impulse hole is clear by sticking some carb cleaner down it as well!
-
105psi????? This is too low to start - is this with 5-6 pulls until the needle doesn't rise any further and with the decomp out? Is this the EPA version with automatic decomp? A new ring is not a silver bullet, it won't make a difference if your existing ring is new. The "Scores" is this aluminium transfer or thin straight lines scored in to the plating - cleaning the bore up isn't too difficult, making sure the reason for the saw failing is repaired is usually more difficult!
-
Firstly - for God sake - do NOT remove that tab, it makes sure the rings don't snag in the inlet port, removing it will cause bad bad damage to the rings and bore:blushing: The openings of the rings can face forwards, backwards or both, on a saw of this age they generally run down both sides of the inlet port. The circlips can be a pig to get back in, I generally push them in with decent quality long nose pliers - someone did say to push the circlip in to a thin tube and then push it out in to the piston - not tried this one out. The lug, I think I would make a thicker lug and then pin it to the casing with steel pins and JB weld and then spray it - or just get a second hand cover:thumbup:
-
It will probably do the job - 1/2 second refresh makes the job easier and there is no mention of this and not having to wrap the wire round the spark plug lead is a feature of the more expensive models but have used th ewire type and they do work. The Chinese pots are generally not machined to such tight a tolerance, the plating can be pitted/thin, the rings can be brittle, the base of the cylinders are sometimes not machined, the top of the pistons are sometimes rough cast, the inner flanks of the gudgeon pin holes are often not machined, the piston can be a sloppy fit in the bore, the squish can sometimes be well over spec and you may get lucky:thumbup: You do get what you pay for - I usually try to salvage the original cylinder - The cylinder kit I got was Meteor and imported from Baileys in the USA.
-
-
The 357XP has a 46mm bore as standard. The idle needs to be adjusted to around 2,900rpm and the max revs to around 13,500rpm, if you can't tach the saw then set the idle so the saw doesn't die and also doesn't spin the chain and set the H screw to 1 & 1/2 turns out and turn in until the saw clears but still sounds slightly "flubby" four stroking at the top end. The Chinese kits may be OK for a home owner or as a back up saw but if it is a primary saw, I would personally avoid - you can get good kits but many are poor in construction in comparison to the OEM part. Meteor do make very good after market pistons and have fitted one of their kits which worked fine.
-
The pin is a gudgeon pin or wrist pin if in the US. it is held in place with circlips that can be little mothers to remove - just be damn sure when you fit the new piston that the circlips are in the groove in the piston otherwise the circlip will spring out and mash your cylinder. You will also need to ensure the arrow is pointing toward your exhaust port and make sure the ring ends are in the same position as the original as I have known Chinese pistons to have arrows pointing in the wrong direction. The lug - try and drill and pin it - JB won't hold it, I have pop rivited and pinned parts before but without seeing it......or by a pattern part if you can find one or secondhand unit. As far as pistons go, in order of best first OEM (original equipment), Meteor, Episan, Golf, Chinese. With rings - OEM, Caber, Chinese....I have known Chinese rings to fail and to do severe damage.
-
The bearings are strange looking bearings that look like this - http://thumbs1.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mzRSROUcHRbXp44mbLp_GpQ.jpg I ment needle roller bearing but the needles are more like rollers tham ball races. Got them both sides, exactly the same.
-
Should be OK, I would fit new bearings and seals as the busted crank end may have put undue stress on the bearing. If the replacement crank is still in the crankcases then make sure the thing isn't worn where the bearings run on it. The MS200 is unusual where the bearings are roller type and run actually on the crank shaft itself and the one on the clutch side can suffer due to operators overtightening the chain:thumbdown:
-
Fit either the OEM ones or Caber rings - the Chinese ones can be brittle and snag which isn't good:thumbdown:
-
Blimey Rich, in agreement at long last - that is exactly what I meant, start at factory, wind in the L screw until the saw races as the mix becomes lean and then take it out until the idle flattens out - not easy to explain simply but anyone that has done a lot of this will recognize the procedure:thumbup: Cheers:thumbup:
-
-
-
From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
-
From the album: Husqvarna 371XP
