spudulike

It's OK Andy, I know what he means:lol: I have heard that if you drill a hole in a mint, it goes faster if you suck it - by as much as 15% Just check the colour of your plugs after you have drilled these holes - do a number of flat out cuts and kill the engine directly after the last cut. Tan/coffee colour is good:thumbup: Graphite grey/white is bad bad bad:thumbdown:

You're just jealous Rich, gotta be secure with your sexuality, hugging a bloke doesn't mean you bat for the other side you know:001_rolleyes: You got your moped working? Gotta fix it to tow that caravan you want:blushing: Not sure how that will work!

OK...firm hand shake and a beer:thumbup:

Sounds like some sort of thermal cut out to me:confused1:

Yay - man hug:thumbup1:

Oh thats it Barrie, I have had enough....toys out of the pram:001_tt2: Each one to his own, I have had some experience of them pulling out and would agree on a thread that has a bolt permanently in it doesn't need any additional fixing but I get a bit anal about strength of repair so if the thread is going to have a bolt in and out of it regularly, I like the addition of a high strength Loctite threadlock to fill any minor cavities between the helicoil and the substrate it is screwed in to. Just my personal opinion and is up to each tech to do what they are happy with. Still mates Barrie:thumbup:

The kickback is being caused by ignitiion takeing place too early on the upward stroke - this is called too much advance in the ignition because it is too much in advance of top dead centre. Generally it is caused by the flywheel shearing its key but is also worth making sure the coil is a business card thickness away from the magnets on the flywheel closer and it may cause this issue. Also check the coil you have fitted is the one with a number of levels of ignition timing - early 066/064 would kickback badly because the ignition had fixed one position timing, later ones had built in retarded ignition on starting that then advance over 3krpm and then retarded again at near max revs - the part the newer MS660 should have is - 1122 400 1314 ....other coils may have variable timing so let me have the number if different and will see if it is correct. If the saw has been fine and just started doing this it probably is the key but the coil may be begining to break down - it is easy to see if the coil is advancing OK by attaching a timing light to the plug, starting the saw and shining the light on the top of the flywheel and revving it. Don't ask me how I know so much about ignition timing:blushing::lol:

One word of advice - cut a nice clean thread otherwise the plug will be flying out again! I usually use Loctite 270 which is a high strength high temperature thread lock - just don't put the plug in until it has had 24 hrs to go off and would put grease around the plug to stop it locking in. Other than that, I have had success with steel inserts - they are very strong and work well!

Was a tad loud - now you know why using it in my drive wasn't a good idea:lol: Your saw had less widening on the exhaust and inlet ports due to the constrictions of the piston skirt, similar modification to the upper transfers and your lower transfers were opened up significantly more but that is very much down to the design of the cylinder. The 395XP has an open windowed piston, the 390XP is closed hence the inlet and exhaust ports being able to be widened more. Yours had the ignition mod and Andys didn't, on yours I could drop the base gasket, on Andys, I had to fit a custom thickness base gasket to get the squish right. ......you did ask - will explain what it all means over a pint:thumbup:

Before anyone asks, both saws are running the same bar and chain in both vids - 28" Husky bar!

Firstly a big thanks for MattyF for his time and large lump of Ash:thumbup: First up we have Mattys 395XP, ported some time ago, found to be a bit boggy so I drilled out the baffle plate I left in place as he didn't want it too loud:001_rolleyes: it also had a tweak to the ignition advance! As standard it pulls 7.1 HP and did a time of 20.24 secs Second up is Stubbys 390XP, ported last weekend and wearing a loud bad boy exhaust - as standard, 6.5 HP and pulled a time of 22.88 secs Sorry Stubby - Matty did say he may be able to get more out of it with a few nore runs - both saws pulled cleanly and sounded good in the cut! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxRC5Co0-9Y]Husqvarna 395XP Ported Muffler and ignition mod Matty - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyXwscBgPmY]Husqvarna 390XP Ported Muffler Mod Stubby - YouTube[/ame]

:lol:

Seems excessive as when I was playing with an 066, it sounded like the engine would let loose when the ignition was too advanced - different engine but seems too big a change IMO!

10 degrees, have you actually done one to this level? Sounds like it will detonate or put serious loading on the rod and ends to me!

That follows pretty much what I know will work, all interesting stuff though so thanks.

I have used one that is elasticated with strengthening glass fibre inserts but TBH, the best thing for a back is to build up your core strength with situps or lifting your legs and top half of your body with your backside on the deck! Since doing this, my bad back of many years has become pretty much non existent:thumbup:

Sounds like the same item - wondered why I couldn't get the 181SE to rev out properly after I ported it until I found this device - haven't blanked it off to date but is a mod in the waiting:thumbup:

Always wanted to put a GSX or Z1 1000cc engine on my Suffolk Colt - thought it would make for an interesting project:001_rolleyes:

Give that man a scooby snack:thumbup:

Agree, reckon something will have come adrift when the machine was running at speed!

I have seen crank bearings taken out by fins missing, generally two on one side will do the damage - I have knocked off the opposing fin if onlu one is missing as a cheap way of giving some form of balance on an old saw with the owners consent but generally it is best to replace the flywheel. Overheaing is less of an issue.

I can see where the sensor goes - straight in to the water jacket to measure engine temperature. The IPL is a bit blurry but from what I can see it looks as though it has a reed block so the induction isn't piston timed but is via reed induction. My money is on the battery not giving the ignition enough to spark or the starter circuit drawing too much current!

I wouldn't say that until you know if the piston is fried - it takes 5 mins to remove the muffler and shine a light up the exhaust port. The piston should be a nice light grey colour and slightly wet looking - bit like the underside of a fish:thumbup: If there are any deep vertical scores then you have some problems. If you are unsure then get a photo up on here and let us see what you have. It is difficult to know what the issue is without seeing the saw. The gunson Hi gauge is what I use but would check the piston first.

Damn, President Garden kit is going to blast all the Youtube folks on the wonders of Aspen now - going to have to get his log on stopped:001_rolleyes::lol: