spudulike

Thanks for the support lads, take up has been a bit lower than I had hoped for but thanks for your support.

I know exactly what you mean...Wolfmans Stihl 023 comes to my mind:001_rolleyes:

With reed valves, the carb is attached to the crankcase and not the cylinder, it relies on the flexing of the reeds to pull fuel vapour in to the crankcase and the reeds to seal the crankcase under crank pressure. The other common method of controlling the inlet fuel air vapour was rotary valve as previously mentioned - this was quite a neat solution of having a rotary disk with an inlet cut out that rotates in time with the crank. On our modern saws, the inlet of fuel vapour and air is controled by the piston and the inlet port giving uninterfered inlet but has limited duration. The advantages of reed valves are that they are not dependant on port timing so opening duration isn't an issue however the reeds do block the inlet port and therefore are not as efficient as port timing - a reed valve machine will rev a lot lower and make full power at lower revs than it's piston ported counterpart. Issues - forming a good seal and the reeds cracking - check this first! If the carb is running rich then in a slide valve carb that most bikes would have, you would lower the slide needle by moving the circlip on the needle up a notch toward the fat end and not the needle end. You should check this but not deviate from the manufacturers spec. One last thing to check - the float height in the carb and if the needle valve (like our saws needle valve) NOT the throttle needle is sealing properly as if it leaks, fuel will raise in the carb and eventually flood the engine. Any good:thumbup:

The fact you can get a resistance reading from the HT cap to the coil body means the HT cable and cap are OK, refit the coil, use a bit of A4 printer paper to set the flywheel to coil gap by placing the paper between the coil and the flywheel magnets and loosen the coil bolts letting the coil be drawn to the magnets and then do the bolts up. This is a smaller gap than usual but stick with it. Make sure the kill wire is disconnected from the coil and then test for spart by putting the spark plug in to the HT cap, earth it on the cylinder and pull the engine over fast and check for spark, if no spark is found then try a different plug. if you still don't get a spark then the coil is duff. The blown coils I have had have sparked once when first pulled over and then nothing!

When talking about needle height, you are normally talking about slide type carbs, the needle valves in this carb should seal and stop fuel flowing in to the carb when the metering section of the carb has enough fuel in it to run the engine. It could be a leaking needle valve, this can cause starting issues as can the metering arm height which should be level with the part of the carb body the diaphragm sits on. I guess the thing to do is when the saw is cold, pull the saw over 15 times with the choke on and the plug should be pretty wet - so wet that when the plug is held by the end and flicked at a flat surface - it should send a few drips of fuel out. Has the compression been checked yet? The tank breather may be the problem as Rich says - it is a small green rubber affair to the top of the tank above the filler cap but hidden by the plastic cover. Try starting the saw after the filler cap has been undone and then re tightened - if it helps....bingo:thumbup: These saws are often seized by weekend warriors who haven't come across two stroke oil before:001_rolleyes:

It has to be done and just hope the poster has the good humour to laugh with us and take the piss back! Something tells me he grew up on 1970/80s motorbikes - FS1e and RD200/250 etc probably - chainsaw problems can be simple but can also often be very involved and defy comprehension - gotta be pretty smart to call everything easy - only Rich is that smart:001_tt2::lol:

Yeah...man hugs all round:thumbup1:

Now now Barrie, his post started well and ran out of talent at the end, guess it could be the rotary valve:blushing: To the original poster, do what I said in my first post and go from there:thumbup:

These newer saws are cylinder ported....no Reed valves, they went out with the 009, 010, 011 etc!

If you do then understand what the constraints are - it isn't just taking a dremmel to an expensive cylinder and crossing your fingers:blushing:

On the cylinder I widen the exhaust port, the inlet port doesn't leave much room for any work due to the position of the ring ends - widen it at your peril! The easiest tune up on these saws is to mod the muffler, simpler than trying to work out how wide you can go! On this latest one I have done a bit more than usual and will see what it does once back together.

If it isn't starting well from cold it could be a number of things but would check that the choke is shutting off fully whan it is engaged and would also check the fast idle position on the choke lever is in fact giving a decent fast idle - easy to test by starting in this position and checking the saw spins up with revs a fair bit higher than normal idle. I am guesing the saw has a single screw adjustment which gives little to adjust but if it is running OK when warm then is probably OK.

From consulting the IPLs, the 266 metal chain brake handle side cover WILL fit the 061:thumbup::thumbup: I just hope yours is the metal one - I guess the complete plastic one may fit as an alternative - worth trying. Oh - don't remind me about that saw:lol:

back to the saw question - 550XP or a good 560XP or 346XP secondhand - but would get it from a known reliable source...and NO, I don't have one for sale:001_rolleyes:

You will pay our 20% VAT on any non EU import - think there is a threshold but it is something like £15. This is despite already paying US tax and also you will find that the warranty probably won't be valid in the UK

Does get that way doesn't it:lol:

If it helps it is part - 501 83 02-01 and is the same as for a 181 and 266/268 models! Got some in the collection but don't want to break them - unless he needs a donor machine for parts! Best option is to find all the saws that will share parts and look out for a second hand band or side cover!

Got the MS200T ported - when you compare the unported and ported cylinders (look at the distance between the transfer and exhaust port side) I am actually taking off a fair bit of metal. I have also done the muffler mod and a couple of other tweaks that should make a bit of difference - should be an interesting one when finished!

Is the plug wet when pulling the saw over 10-15 times with the choke on? One thing worth doing is taking the muffler off and making sure the piston isn't scored - it should look wet and silvery - bit like a nice bit of fish:lol: Do these two things and report back:thumbup:

Not sure we have met, this guy is far better looking than me and 20 years younger

Didn't realise that they were that cheap, will have to get a couple in but may need a face to face to fit it correctly Usually repair them because I can and out of convenience!

It's worse up close The cylinder has shed a fair bit of crap and should cool a bit better and got most of the crap off the piston. Should run a little cleaner once ported!

Just to add to Riches post, an airleak is very possible on any of the parts he mentions. On the carb side, it may be crud in the gauze filter stopping enough fuel getting through at high speed or possibly an unseen blockage in the high speed circuit of the carb - removing the H screw and blasting some carb cleaner in to its hole nay get it working again. The 020 carbs can be interesting to tune and have a bit of a knack so take care. This bogging can also be a sign of a partially seized or low compression machine - had this in the past!

MS200T - just about the most battered one I have come accross - nice side cover and new fuel tank but the rest of it.......got the piston and cylinder boiling in the ultrasonic cleaner at the moment cleaning the crud off it!

Always do Barrie:thumbup: - last couple have been the earth strap - not obvious until you either meter it out of give it a pull:blushing: Oh er missus:lol: