spudulike

Damn, President Garden kit is going to blast all the Youtube folks on the wonders of Aspen now - going to have to get his log on stopped:001_rolleyes::lol:

As Andy says, if you have a blue or black button on the side of the cylinder, then the decomp is manual and the saw isn't the EPA model which is a good thing! The cylinder, if Italian is a Meteor one and is a decent quality item and will be Nikasil plated - harder then Chrome and better. Best look at the piston - if the original pot seized, if the reason for this happening hasn't been remedied then it may have gone again - the saws are good performers but the inlet manifolds can be a bit problematic if not sealed well. There was a modification in the early days from a plastic manifold clip to a metal one so make sure the inlet manifold is held on to the cylinder with the metal clip. It may be worth investing in a £20 compression gauge!

Bugger - so you have found out the Caravan club have a couple of sites down the road, break out the Gingham table cloths:lol:

Is the pot and piston the OEM unit or a Chinese Copy? Few things to look at: - Is the decomp sticking in and is the lack of compression with the decomp in or out? Could be a sticking ring - if it holds in the piston then the saw could loose compression. Is he saw an EPA version with automatic decomp? Have you taken the muffler off to check the state of the piston through the exhaust port? The saw will develop less compression when hot - you should expect 15psi less when hot than cold. Have you measured the compression - worth doing so you are dealing with fact - 150psi cold is good, 170psi is better

I personlly use a water based carb cleaner in my US cleaner but if it is a low powered non heating unit then white spriit will do the job but make sure it doesn't get too hot:blushing:

I had you down for 25 Rich, looks like you are in God's waiting room after all:lol:What about a Parker knowl or a Stena chair lift:lol:

The screw is to adjust the low speed and does so by bypassing the throttle valve - it is a similar carb as fitted on MS181/018/017 chainsaws. You would normally get the machine running and simply adjust this screw until you have an even idle. Your issue is probably the carb, it is probably some crap in it and checking the gauze filter in the pumping section is worth doing, also checking the metering arm height that sits above the diaphragm is also well worth doing - I believe it should be level to the carb body - where the diaphragm sits. If you get the machine running - you will need to define whether it fails to idle at low revs or fails to rev out at the top end - the carb has two sections to meter fuel and this analysis will tell you which area is at fault. It is worth trying another plug - they do play up now and then. Check the fuel lines are OK and that the filter is clean and in place, try running it with the fuel cap loose and see if this helps.

Do as Rich says, adjust the idle down so the saw idles evenly and the chain doesn't spin. If there is any hessitation on pickup or it holds on to revs when the throttle is snapped shut then you may have an airleak. The inlet manifold, impulse and crank seals are all possible areas of concern with the crank seals being the most common issue IMO - you will only find these problems with pressure and vacuum testing. Best thing to do for the normal user is to settle the idle and then see how the saw responds - the L and H screw need to be 1 turn out each but the H screw will generally have a limit cap on it so won't be able to adjust easily.

No problems Nifty, I think he is planning a visit at some stage - got some parts he needs and he wants a 024 pot ported - if it doesn't need too much, may be able to do it while he waits but may need a bit more of a going over.

Yes - they are generally known as stuffers and inrease transfer velocity by decreasing crankcase volume - an idea taken off racing two strokes but carried forward to Huskys later saws, this pic was of my 357XP - one of the first saws that I know stuffers were used on!

Thanks Jon, got this one and a TX200 Springer with a Walnut stock, think that is probably enough for now - the local rats are nervous:lol:

I actually got it off ebay and is a Chinese one but it is actually a decent scope for the money, can hit a 2p piece at around 30 yards using a rest so pretty good IMO - got illuminated reticules, range finder, zoom etc:thumbup: Got a Platinum Night eater on the TX200 and that is also pretty decent - both hold zero well - PCPs are the way to go though - almost zero recoil:thumbup:

Stubbys saws seem to always come in with the loudest US import bad boy exhausts that are excessivly loud but appear to have a positive effect on performance! finished it now, just got to try it out. It came with a limited 13,000 blue coil, found a novel way of overcoming this, I fitted a blur rev limited one off a 346XP:thumbup: Limited to 14100, it should give a little protection and would hope this one would tach to about 13500 - 13800 flat out....it will probably suck in small mammals and spit them out BBQed at speed:lol: Expect a vid when Matty can supply some wood big enough! His 395Xp now has a new fuel line, clean carb, tweaked ignition and a drilled muffler baffle plate - should liven it up as the porting I did after he seized it wasn't really working as it should - think it was him being worried about the noise:001_rolleyes: The compression is mega - can only get 150psi on the gauge before it rips your arm off - shows the work I did cleaning it up has settled in well!

Very likely - hope the MS200 and HS81 work OK next week and reckon I will need a big lump of wood to test Stubbys and your saws out in a week or two!

I have come across this "Crank case stuffing", it is a known method of improving performance and a good reason not to make the lower transfers too small when porting as it can reduce transfer velocity. On some of the Husqvarnas, we are lucky as the manufacture has already fitted crank lobe stuffers - the 357 and 560 are two of them -

On an old saw like this it would be worth replacing the fuel line and impulse line if itis a separate one. It sounds carb related as others have said, you can get resins and grunge forming in saws that have sat for a while and fuel filters can get glued up as well. It may be the carb needs to be adjusted and it is possible the L screw just needs undoing 1/4 turn and the idle adjusted to run a little faster - the diaphragms can change shape on saws left for a while and mess the mix up. When adjusting these older carbs, changing the L screw can often change the setting of the H circuit so if you open the L screw up, you may need to adjust the H screw back in. Using the choke when starting a hot saw point towards the saw running a bit lean on the L screw - it may be the fuel tank breather is blocked - try loosening the fuel cap when it stops again and then starting the saw with no choke. Another possible is that the "fast idle" setting on the saw isn't working correctly - I don't know if this is a push button type or operates off the choke on this saw but is another possibillity! Good luck

Dya reckon they fly and land well when lobbed out of a tree Matty...must get on with your 395XP now:001_rolleyes::lol:

You worry me Barrie, think that deckchair in the shady spot of your garden is beckoning:thumbup: Exciting holiday then - weather looks good though - came across this rock balancing thing in Croatia when out for a walk - did a few but not quite as well as yours - you sure it wasn't a bit of a masonary drill and JB weld job:lol: I think you need a few ride on mowers to calm you down:001_tt2:

Erm - perfectly normal....in my strange world anyway:blushing: The technical term is "CAD" Chainsaw acquisition disease and is a well known medical term - ask the wife, she will verify this:thumbup1::lol:

I hope so:blushing: am hopinng Matty F is going to dig out a large lump of timber to try it out on - almost got in to trouble last time I fired up one of your saws - a tad loud! Got his saw in again for a little tweaking and reckon we need to shake the bowels of hell once they are both done.

Heres my modified Air Arms up to the legal limit - used mostly for rats and target shooting

In and out of setting up the Allen Strimmer, cleaning up my newly aquired hedhe trimmers, I have a 390XP in for a porting job, It already has th ehigh rise filter and a real bad boy twin port muffler on it. The noce thing about this saw is it's design is like a big 346XP, the inlet and exhaust port can be opened up to near maximum due to the fact the piston has closed sides so the skirts are massive giving lots of potential. The exhaust was widened lots, the upper transfers were re-modeled and the inlet opened up, there wasn't much left on the table as far as the squish goes but have put in a custom 0.2mm gasket and it is spot on minumum now that should protect against detonation. The port edges were carefully beveled just down to the fact that they are large and we don't want a snagged ring. The piston has twin rings and there ends are surprisingly only slightly offset so do not hinder modifications unlike on many Stihl machines:thumbup: Carb needs cleaning and will then set the machine up.

That garden fork looks a little fooked:lol: nice job as always Martin:thumbup:

Tached the MS200T - perfect, ran up the 371XP that is my own and for sale and pretty much there - cleaned and checked over the long reach Echo hedge trimmer I have just purchased - all seems good, helicoiled one thread, rest seems OK and need a new grease nipple.

Your saws are going to look like gorgonzola soon, bit like the cafe racers of the 60s, full of holes in the name af saving weight:001_rolleyes: