spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just make sure you adjust the carb once done, failure will cause positive hyperbolic pressure in your doofer:blushing:
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And he makes a tasty bit of cake:lol:
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Personally I use the non max setting and just hold the saw on max revs for half a second. The hedge trimmer "dancing all over" will have a limited coil - best to turn the H screw out to over one turn out and then bring it in gradually, regestering the max revs until you hit around 500rpm under maximum or leave it at the point it starts jumping all over the place - limited coils make the job a bit more fun:lol:
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For the record, the tuned MS200Ts I do are generally tuned to around 14K - 14.2Krpm - standard max is 14,000 and would tune a standard saw to 13.5K - 13.8Krpm The tuned saws would probably take more but would rather build in a little bit of safety margin.
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Wow, got a lot of experts on here tonight, been missin all the fun:001_rolleyes: As far as changing the mix when modding saws, most of what is said is absolute tosh spewed out by people who have never ported a saw in their life:lol: As you may know, I have tuned a saw or three and I have yet to richen a saw on the H screw when modding a saw. When you port a saw and do a muffler mod, you increase the flow through the engine and what does that extra flow do when pulled through the carb.......well it increases the pull through the high speed carb circuit - all to do with venturi effect on the H speed check valve - so when you retune the engine, you need to lean the saw down, the ported saws I do, on standard tuning, will be fourstroking like mad on standard tuning and often run on 3/4 screw setting rather than 1 turn and still turn in a dark brown plug colour. Tuning a ported saw is about plug colour, fourstroking and registering the new top RPM on a tach.
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That Caravan Club are getting worse, it used to be OAPs with little BBQs and gingham table cloths and strange looking toilet tents, now it sounds like they are stretching their pensions out by pinching fowl:lol:
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Less busy on my bench than Rich but good headway made on a 371XP I picked up - the cylinder had a lot of aluminium transfer on it and it cleaned up really well - a couple of hours work on and off but just tried the Meteor piston in the cleaned bore and it is a nice snug fit - should be a good saw once done and you have guessed - will be up for sale when done:001_rolleyes:
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Put on safety glasses:thumbup: put the outside part of the spring in to the plastic housing and keep working the spring in whilst rotating the plastic housing round and maintaining pressure with your thumbs on both sides of the spring - you need big hands and four of them but take it easy until the last part goes in - I'm not koking about the glasses either - get the end of one of these springs in your eye and you will know about it:thumbdown:
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That will be a 266 SG then - it must have heated handles if it is an SG - the SE didn't. Brake bands - part No - 501 83 02-01 shares the same part as the Husky 61 - at least you have a bit of quality in your workshop at long last - think you need a second hand one:thumbup:
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That is very possible - worth checking next time it happens - probably the filter is sitting out of the fuel a bit and dragging up air instead of fuel making it rev up. If it isnt that then it could be a number of carb issues or a slight air leak - just depends if it does it when level as well!
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:lol:
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Must have been a sloppy bar then! More training needed:001_tt2:
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Cheers Barrie and perhaps you can show Rich how to sharpen chains and check and dress bars on Huskys:001_rolleyes:
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Just hope the guy comes back and asks you to fix it Rich, it will keep you quiet for a while:lol:
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Have you tried holding open the throttle fully after the brushcutter has fired on choke and after taking the choke off - it may be that the throttle isn't being held open on the fast idle setting!
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:thumbup:Glad you are happy with the work I did on it and all is working well
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That brake cover looks pretty average compared to the MS200T ones I have had apart, you can usually tel how cruddy they are from how the brake snaps on or not and the sound of it - dull and thuddy and it is full of chip.
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It was removing and replacing the pump I was talking about, does the pump gear wheel look ok or is it rounded?
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He's too busy prancing round the kitchen in a pinnie baking cakes:001_rolleyes:
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It's because you are a Husky man Andy, the tools respond to the love:thumbup:
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You guys are learning......well some of you are:001_rolleyes: Stubby is correct, the oil is the defining part and not the machine, the older tools say 25:1 as the oil of the day was ....well...older and not as good as the oils that are around now. To put it in to context, I can run a hot ported saw at 15,000 rpm at 50:1 - I think your blower may be OK with the same ratio:lol:
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50:1 in all tools if the oil is specified at 50:1
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There you go Rich, words of wisdom from two old farts:thumbup: Stick to the pro saws - I try to avoid the MS171/181, Husky 136/141, McCulloch, Ryobi saws - very difficult to give an owner a £90 repair bill on a saw worth £100 when all he does is cut a bit of firewood with it. Easier to repair the pro stuff that gets used daily to make the owner a living! Let us know how you get on..and how your day was:lol:
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My favourite is "You reap what you Sow" or to be more precise "As you sow, so also shall you reap" - a biblical quote and so true in everyday life! On a similar vein - "Treat others as you would like to be treated" Both go a long way in my books!
