spudulike

There I rest my case, told you it would break:thumbdown: Looking at the brand I had thought this manufacturer were like all the rest of them but having listened to Barries explanation and looked a bit more in to it, it would seem they do sit somewhere between the bad Chinese kit and the pro kit offering value, not up to the quality of pro kit but suitable for a bit of abuse:thumbup: Glad to hear it is still working and that our fears were not realised, my introduction to "Zomax" Chinese saws wasn't good with every part breaking or showing signs of wanting to break so glad to have a bit of feeback on along term test. You gonna stay around now - thought you had thrown yourself under a bus:blushing::lol:

Its had a little tweak to the squish that should make it a little better....and of course it works now:thumbup:

This week I have rebuilt one MS200T with the only mod being a dropped base gasket and the other was a full port, muffler mod and a few other tweaks. Thought I would run one against the other with the same bar and see what the difference was - the ported one pulls 11 secs on two cuts and the non ported 13.5secs. Around 20% difference and happy with the results - you can really tell the difference on the recoil handle once modified:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUlzZ1WIcy0]Refurbished MS200T Part 1 - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB_MC5VqbJw]Ported MS200T Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

The seller is probably a little bit thick - seen all types in my time including some wonders of packing, in fact "packing" is probably too grand a title for what the seller ended up doing - light wrapping is closer to the mark! Sometimes it is just ttttooooooo much effort to do things correctly:001_rolleyes:

Looks like you will need a helicoil repair or if the hole has been made too large to take one, it will be an insert! Not too bad a job for the adept tech!

Depends if it has been stored dry or not, try it as is and watch out for fuel leaks or poor running - if you get either, just fit a new fuel line and carb kit:thumbup: The Aspen has a habit of contracting/shrinking rubber parts after they have been in contact with petrol.

Is there a white plastic sleeve part - 1130 141 1800 pushed in to the manifold where the carb pushes up against - I have had one in with it missing - ran like a bag of poop:thumbdown: it has a built in impulse line restrictor!

Nice:thumbup: reckon you have around 5 years on me:lol:

Remember them - I go back to the RD400 air cooled twins, RD200s etc so yup, all from the day. One thought - how is the OPs saw going, seems to have gone quiet - if he is still about, one fault may be the plastic ring that fits in the carb boot being missing - may have come out when the carb was fitted!

Not too my knowledge - although it was a useful inlet solution, it added weight and complexity to the engine - I don't believe that any saws ever had a power-valve either...before anyone asks! The power-valve is a neat idea to give the two stroke engine a wider power-band, for those in the know, the power-band is controlled primarily by the height of the exhaust port - the solution was to make the top of the exhaust port adjustable with a moveable bar that raises the exhaust port as the revs increase - this has made a significant difference to two stroke engines within the biking industry by adding torque and a much wider power band to bike engines - also power has risen greatly from these engines!

Scott, now there's a bike ahead of its time

Thanks for the support lads, take up has been a bit lower than I had hoped for but thanks for your support.

I know exactly what you mean...Wolfmans Stihl 023 comes to my mind:001_rolleyes:

With reed valves, the carb is attached to the crankcase and not the cylinder, it relies on the flexing of the reeds to pull fuel vapour in to the crankcase and the reeds to seal the crankcase under crank pressure. The other common method of controlling the inlet fuel air vapour was rotary valve as previously mentioned - this was quite a neat solution of having a rotary disk with an inlet cut out that rotates in time with the crank. On our modern saws, the inlet of fuel vapour and air is controled by the piston and the inlet port giving uninterfered inlet but has limited duration. The advantages of reed valves are that they are not dependant on port timing so opening duration isn't an issue however the reeds do block the inlet port and therefore are not as efficient as port timing - a reed valve machine will rev a lot lower and make full power at lower revs than it's piston ported counterpart. Issues - forming a good seal and the reeds cracking - check this first! If the carb is running rich then in a slide valve carb that most bikes would have, you would lower the slide needle by moving the circlip on the needle up a notch toward the fat end and not the needle end. You should check this but not deviate from the manufacturers spec. One last thing to check - the float height in the carb and if the needle valve (like our saws needle valve) NOT the throttle needle is sealing properly as if it leaks, fuel will raise in the carb and eventually flood the engine. Any good:thumbup:

The fact you can get a resistance reading from the HT cap to the coil body means the HT cable and cap are OK, refit the coil, use a bit of A4 printer paper to set the flywheel to coil gap by placing the paper between the coil and the flywheel magnets and loosen the coil bolts letting the coil be drawn to the magnets and then do the bolts up. This is a smaller gap than usual but stick with it. Make sure the kill wire is disconnected from the coil and then test for spart by putting the spark plug in to the HT cap, earth it on the cylinder and pull the engine over fast and check for spark, if no spark is found then try a different plug. if you still don't get a spark then the coil is duff. The blown coils I have had have sparked once when first pulled over and then nothing!

When talking about needle height, you are normally talking about slide type carbs, the needle valves in this carb should seal and stop fuel flowing in to the carb when the metering section of the carb has enough fuel in it to run the engine. It could be a leaking needle valve, this can cause starting issues as can the metering arm height which should be level with the part of the carb body the diaphragm sits on. I guess the thing to do is when the saw is cold, pull the saw over 15 times with the choke on and the plug should be pretty wet - so wet that when the plug is held by the end and flicked at a flat surface - it should send a few drips of fuel out. Has the compression been checked yet? The tank breather may be the problem as Rich says - it is a small green rubber affair to the top of the tank above the filler cap but hidden by the plastic cover. Try starting the saw after the filler cap has been undone and then re tightened - if it helps....bingo:thumbup: These saws are often seized by weekend warriors who haven't come across two stroke oil before:001_rolleyes:

It has to be done and just hope the poster has the good humour to laugh with us and take the piss back! Something tells me he grew up on 1970/80s motorbikes - FS1e and RD200/250 etc probably - chainsaw problems can be simple but can also often be very involved and defy comprehension - gotta be pretty smart to call everything easy - only Rich is that smart:001_tt2::lol:

Yeah...man hugs all round:thumbup1:

Now now Barrie, his post started well and ran out of talent at the end, guess it could be the rotary valve:blushing: To the original poster, do what I said in my first post and go from there:thumbup:

These newer saws are cylinder ported....no Reed valves, they went out with the 009, 010, 011 etc!

If you do then understand what the constraints are - it isn't just taking a dremmel to an expensive cylinder and crossing your fingers:blushing:

On the cylinder I widen the exhaust port, the inlet port doesn't leave much room for any work due to the position of the ring ends - widen it at your peril! The easiest tune up on these saws is to mod the muffler, simpler than trying to work out how wide you can go! On this latest one I have done a bit more than usual and will see what it does once back together.

If it isn't starting well from cold it could be a number of things but would check that the choke is shutting off fully whan it is engaged and would also check the fast idle position on the choke lever is in fact giving a decent fast idle - easy to test by starting in this position and checking the saw spins up with revs a fair bit higher than normal idle. I am guesing the saw has a single screw adjustment which gives little to adjust but if it is running OK when warm then is probably OK.

From consulting the IPLs, the 266 metal chain brake handle side cover WILL fit the 061:thumbup::thumbup: I just hope yours is the metal one - I guess the complete plastic one may fit as an alternative - worth trying. Oh - don't remind me about that saw:lol:

back to the saw question - 550XP or a good 560XP or 346XP secondhand - but would get it from a known reliable source...and NO, I don't have one for sale:001_rolleyes: