spudulike

Been a while since I have rolled "in to stage" with one of those lights - you should bring your mower up to Santa Pod - only 20 miles north of me:thumbup:

You should be able to retire soon Barrie, what with that lot! I guess the grass cutting season has been extended down to the weather and is only just now slowing down. Don't knock it - all good for business:thumbup:

Old Huskys are called SE for standard and SG have heated handles, later ones are XP for Xtra power or Pro saws and XPG have heated handles. If yours had an SG recoil cover, it must have been from another saw!

I think the expression is - Pride becomes before a fall:blushing: The Husky is worth £250 - £300 and looks pretty clean to me - not as sexy as the 346XP NE but still a good logging saw! Stihl, Husky....take your pick - both have good saws in their range but the 346 V 026....I know which one I would pick up and it didn't come from Germany:001_tt2:

£70 - flippin ek Rich, an old fella as well - surprised he didn't croak it there and then:lol: Just a word of advice, any Husky with clips holding on the top cover are Pro models and hold a premium! There are a few exceptions where the main cover is screwed on but the filter cover will be clipped - that is from the 3 series onwards. £70:001_rolleyes::lol: him a pensioner as well, did you manage to pinch his wallet on the way out:001_tt2: Nice to see a bit of quality on your bench at last:thumbup:

Sorry dude, you are nearer to the US than me:lol: Only come across the Nova unit on AS!

Thanks guys, always a pleasure to do work for you both and nice easy transactions all round. Glad you are happy with the job Andy and that the "Caravan Club" didn't have the saw away:001_rolleyes::lol:

Cheers Peter, your saws are enough of a challenge as they are! On the mouse front, try plugging in the wireless receiver of your mouse in to a colleagues PC and waggle it now and then - it really gets on their tits. The other laugh we have is with this - Best Text-to-Speech Demo: Create Talking Avatars and Online Characters | SitePal TTS Demo just type in insults or answers to questions and let your PC do the talking to your colleagues:thumbup:

Someone had to ask:lol:.....I spend a bit of time thinking about ways of improving saws, as Rich says - easy to know the theory but more difficult to actuate it. If you want to see an ignition tweak in action - MattyFs 395XP on whats on my bench thread had an ignition advance mod......along with a lot of other modification! It went rather well in the vid:thumbup:

Oh dear - here we go again:001_rolleyes: in the early days, saws had contact breakers and coils, this then developed to a coil and a lump of electronics in a small can that picked up when the spark should be generated and this lump of electronics eventually ended up within the coil itself. Latterly this spark generator within the coil ended up having built in advance but that is another story. The Nova unit is a replacement, I believe, for the early contact breaker saws. I think Wisecobandid may be from the US where the Nova unit is more available! Please correct if needed

It can help a saw, it can slow down a saw, Brad has done a flywheel key mod on MS201s and has had a good improvement. The theory is that it can improve low compression engines and stifle high compression engines. It can also hinder flat out revs if it is done too much, it can also cause detonation if done too much but lowering the squish can help reduce detonation for obvious reasons. I did my own 066 once and too much - it idled and reckoned if I had given it a fistful, I would have bent the con rod - I was around 33 degrees advance at idle. It is an intricate mod - easy if you know what you are doing and know how to measure the ignition degrees with a degree wheel and piston stop. Welcome to my world - you did ask:thumbup: Surprised no one has mentioned plugging the strato holes yet:001_rolleyes:

I warn owners of this if they ask about me modding their saws - a very good point!

It's OK Andy, I know what he means:lol: I have heard that if you drill a hole in a mint, it goes faster if you suck it - by as much as 15% Just check the colour of your plugs after you have drilled these holes - do a number of flat out cuts and kill the engine directly after the last cut. Tan/coffee colour is good:thumbup: Graphite grey/white is bad bad bad:thumbdown:

You're just jealous Rich, gotta be secure with your sexuality, hugging a bloke doesn't mean you bat for the other side you know:001_rolleyes: You got your moped working? Gotta fix it to tow that caravan you want:blushing: Not sure how that will work!

OK...firm hand shake and a beer:thumbup:

Sounds like some sort of thermal cut out to me:confused1:

Yay - man hug:thumbup1:

Oh thats it Barrie, I have had enough....toys out of the pram:001_tt2: Each one to his own, I have had some experience of them pulling out and would agree on a thread that has a bolt permanently in it doesn't need any additional fixing but I get a bit anal about strength of repair so if the thread is going to have a bolt in and out of it regularly, I like the addition of a high strength Loctite threadlock to fill any minor cavities between the helicoil and the substrate it is screwed in to. Just my personal opinion and is up to each tech to do what they are happy with. Still mates Barrie:thumbup:

The kickback is being caused by ignitiion takeing place too early on the upward stroke - this is called too much advance in the ignition because it is too much in advance of top dead centre. Generally it is caused by the flywheel shearing its key but is also worth making sure the coil is a business card thickness away from the magnets on the flywheel closer and it may cause this issue. Also check the coil you have fitted is the one with a number of levels of ignition timing - early 066/064 would kickback badly because the ignition had fixed one position timing, later ones had built in retarded ignition on starting that then advance over 3krpm and then retarded again at near max revs - the part the newer MS660 should have is - 1122 400 1314 ....other coils may have variable timing so let me have the number if different and will see if it is correct. If the saw has been fine and just started doing this it probably is the key but the coil may be begining to break down - it is easy to see if the coil is advancing OK by attaching a timing light to the plug, starting the saw and shining the light on the top of the flywheel and revving it. Don't ask me how I know so much about ignition timing:blushing::lol:

One word of advice - cut a nice clean thread otherwise the plug will be flying out again! I usually use Loctite 270 which is a high strength high temperature thread lock - just don't put the plug in until it has had 24 hrs to go off and would put grease around the plug to stop it locking in. Other than that, I have had success with steel inserts - they are very strong and work well!

Was a tad loud - now you know why using it in my drive wasn't a good idea:lol: Your saw had less widening on the exhaust and inlet ports due to the constrictions of the piston skirt, similar modification to the upper transfers and your lower transfers were opened up significantly more but that is very much down to the design of the cylinder. The 395XP has an open windowed piston, the 390XP is closed hence the inlet and exhaust ports being able to be widened more. Yours had the ignition mod and Andys didn't, on yours I could drop the base gasket, on Andys, I had to fit a custom thickness base gasket to get the squish right. ......you did ask - will explain what it all means over a pint:thumbup:

Before anyone asks, both saws are running the same bar and chain in both vids - 28" Husky bar!

Firstly a big thanks for MattyF for his time and large lump of Ash:thumbup: First up we have Mattys 395XP, ported some time ago, found to be a bit boggy so I drilled out the baffle plate I left in place as he didn't want it too loud:001_rolleyes: it also had a tweak to the ignition advance! As standard it pulls 7.1 HP and did a time of 20.24 secs Second up is Stubbys 390XP, ported last weekend and wearing a loud bad boy exhaust - as standard, 6.5 HP and pulled a time of 22.88 secs Sorry Stubby - Matty did say he may be able to get more out of it with a few nore runs - both saws pulled cleanly and sounded good in the cut! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxRC5Co0-9Y]Husqvarna 395XP Ported Muffler and ignition mod Matty - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyXwscBgPmY]Husqvarna 390XP Ported Muffler Mod Stubby - YouTube[/ame]

:lol:

Seems excessive as when I was playing with an 066, it sounded like the engine would let loose when the ignition was too advanced - different engine but seems too big a change IMO!