spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yes, 99.9% 0f heat seizures will be more obvious on the exhaust side as this will be the hottest side of the engine, I have seen them pick up on the inlet side as well and some spread around the complete piston but are less common. The cylinder may be salvageable, personally I would take it to a reputable tech and get them to inspect the bar and chain, the blackened clutch and then remove the clutch to inspect the oiler pinion and crankcase seal. It is possible the oiler pinion may have failed if the crank got that hot and this would have also caused the chain to bind in this modified bar. IMO - the guy who ground the 1.5mm bar to fit a 1.6mm chain is misguided and a danger to himself and others!
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If it was an issue with the chain and bar, these parts need inspection, it is possible the chain was far too tight on the bar and that caused clutch slip hence it being black! Whether this would cause engine seizure is debatable, usual suspects are no oil in the fuel, old mix, incorrectly adjusted carb or air leak. Can't do much else without inspection. I guess the clutch could have got that hot it melted the crank seal but have never seen it before!
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You have a good memory - you can knock the rails back together if they are splayed and also dress uneven rails back to square - just depends on your budget and skill/patience. It is very easy to get tight spots but a good finish is very doable if careful.
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Sorry bud, they are a mare, when you fit the new one, take off 1/8mm on the mating surface of the pump so the gear is pushed a litle closer to the pinion, it will make it a better fit but don't go too far:lol: I learnt a long time ago - you will spend an hour or two on this job and the guy will expect a £20 repair - the moral of the story is stick to pro saws that have a good residual value as the owner of a £350 saw wont baulk at a £50 - £100 repair for his work saw that will earn him that in the first four hours of getting it back to work. Similar repairs to each saw all take the same time but some just arent worth it. Good luck!
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Well enjoy that one Rich - the whole engine needs removing to get to the pump and you will probably find that the plastic gear on the pump has worn on the pinion that drives it....I am guessing it is one of those 4040s or something similar - pig of a job!
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Adjusting Stihl carb - advice needed please!
spudulike replied to Treewolf's topic in Maintenance help
From memory, take up the slack in the throttle cable with the torx screw but not to the point where it changes the idle speed and then use the screw to get an even idle speed - the carb has fixed jets and if it is like the MS170 carb, has a single screw that adjusts air input for the correct idle speed. -
Not unless someone requests it, looking good so far, should come out clean from what I can see!
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I can't see grinding out the rails of a 1.5mm bar to accept a 1.6mm Stihl chain is an acceptable practice - I have certainly never heard of it before - sounds a bit of a bodge to me as it would make the rails thinner and what happens at the nose sprocket? Why didn't he just fit a 1.5mm loop, sounds like it is just so he can hold less chain stock and he shouldn't have done this mod without your authority. The black crap around the clutch is probably where the chain started binding in the rails making the clutch overheat and slip - not sure if this would seize the engine or not is debatable but I would check to see the fit of the chain on the bar and see if it is an overly tight fit or not and see if it spins around it freely. All sounds mighty strange to me:confused1:
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Have you sprayed that side cover Martin?
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It will be a limited coil!
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Been working on a Jonsered 2171 that I picked up for cleaning and resale - coming along well and the piston is in very good condition with the original machining marks still clearly visible through the exhaust port. This is the same saw as the Husqvarna 372 using the same crankcases and pretty much the same cylinder bar the inlet manifold. Should be a good saw once done. Shouldn't be long before it is ready to sell.
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Been belting out the MS200Ts this weekend, had one in that was in good clean condition, not revving out but the idle was good, found the problem, split carb boot - not a common fault but comes up now and then. Good thing it was caught quickly, it avoided it seizing. The saw was fully refurbed, decoked the cylinder - exhaust port needed a good clean up - carb cleaned and all running well now.
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Probably the oiler pinion arm slipping round the pinion, one of the most common issues and a cheap and easy one to fix - got a picture of a bad one on "what's on your bench":thumbup:
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There I rest my case, told you it would break:thumbdown: Looking at the brand I had thought this manufacturer were like all the rest of them but having listened to Barries explanation and looked a bit more in to it, it would seem they do sit somewhere between the bad Chinese kit and the pro kit offering value, not up to the quality of pro kit but suitable for a bit of abuse:thumbup: Glad to hear it is still working and that our fears were not realised, my introduction to "Zomax" Chinese saws wasn't good with every part breaking or showing signs of wanting to break so glad to have a bit of feeback on along term test. You gonna stay around now - thought you had thrown yourself under a bus:blushing::lol:
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Its had a little tweak to the squish that should make it a little better....and of course it works now:thumbup:
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This week I have rebuilt one MS200T with the only mod being a dropped base gasket and the other was a full port, muffler mod and a few other tweaks. Thought I would run one against the other with the same bar and see what the difference was - the ported one pulls 11 secs on two cuts and the non ported 13.5secs. Around 20% difference and happy with the results - you can really tell the difference on the recoil handle once modified:thumbup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUlzZ1WIcy0]Refurbished MS200T Part 1 - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lB_MC5VqbJw]Ported MS200T Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]
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The seller is probably a little bit thick - seen all types in my time including some wonders of packing, in fact "packing" is probably too grand a title for what the seller ended up doing - light wrapping is closer to the mark! Sometimes it is just ttttooooooo much effort to do things correctly:001_rolleyes:
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Looks like you will need a helicoil repair or if the hole has been made too large to take one, it will be an insert! Not too bad a job for the adept tech!
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Depends if it has been stored dry or not, try it as is and watch out for fuel leaks or poor running - if you get either, just fit a new fuel line and carb kit:thumbup: The Aspen has a habit of contracting/shrinking rubber parts after they have been in contact with petrol.
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Is there a white plastic sleeve part - 1130 141 1800 pushed in to the manifold where the carb pushes up against - I have had one in with it missing - ran like a bag of poop:thumbdown: it has a built in impulse line restrictor!
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Nice:thumbup: reckon you have around 5 years on me:lol:
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Remember them - I go back to the RD400 air cooled twins, RD200s etc so yup, all from the day. One thought - how is the OPs saw going, seems to have gone quiet - if he is still about, one fault may be the plastic ring that fits in the carb boot being missing - may have come out when the carb was fitted!
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Not too my knowledge - although it was a useful inlet solution, it added weight and complexity to the engine - I don't believe that any saws ever had a power-valve either...before anyone asks! The power-valve is a neat idea to give the two stroke engine a wider power-band, for those in the know, the power-band is controlled primarily by the height of the exhaust port - the solution was to make the top of the exhaust port adjustable with a moveable bar that raises the exhaust port as the revs increase - this has made a significant difference to two stroke engines within the biking industry by adding torque and a much wider power band to bike engines - also power has risen greatly from these engines!
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Scott, now there's a bike ahead of its time
