spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Early signs are that it hasn't seized but the bearings or crank are buggered - will find out later:001_rolleyes:
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What can go wrong:001_rolleyes:
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The saws are made to run pretty quiet so getting a bit of flow through the muffler will help. The muffler exhaust port side is very restricted as is the outlet side. I will see what I am able to achieve with the kit I have!
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I will need to see what the ports are like(Shape and width), whether I can get to the exhaust port as it has quite an acute exit angle to aid exhaust exit, what the limiting porting factors are, where the ring ends are, what the squish is, what the timing durations are etc etc All in a days work but would expect there are mods to do as there generally are - the beauty is that the machine is a scrapper so neither the owner or I are particularly bothered if we spend a little time and dosh on it and it buggers up - not that I expect it to:thumbup: Need to look at the muffler to see what I can do from the outside or if I need to split the can!
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Copper slip is good as it has a high temp rating and also use HT Grease - nothing magical, it just stops the clutch getting locked on to the crank thread!
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From my side, never done one!
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You don't want to know my thoughts unless you don't want to sleep at night:lol: I may get a chance this weekend, it would be interesting to know if your one was just a muffler mod and nothing else but this one will have whatever I can throw at it.....once I get to it!
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You could try Rowena Motors, they may ship to the Nordics and the full kits come in far cheaper than the Stihl re-branded ones - I can't fault their service, it is reeaaaalllllllyyyyy good:thumbup:
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I just tap the thing tight and then run it up and slap the chainbrake on - any cutting action will tighten the clutch hence the left hand thread! They do tighten up pretty fast but I grease the thread for future removal when I work on saws!
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Of those three I would reckon Oregon to be best - have you made sure your oiler output is OK and the clutch drum sprocket/rim is in good condition? Are your bar rails worn? Have you tried Stihl chain?
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I think that clutch had been off in my service - can't remember if it had a new seal or not......Wus:001_rolleyes: Glad it has all ended well - not really tried mine after a second visit to porting it and opening up the muffler a bit more - got some timber down on the lane out of the village - dead standing ash and elm.....my favourite:thumbup:
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Pretty piss poor behaviour IMO, not sure I would walk from £145 that easily and would knock on his door to find out what his issue is. The other party isn't a long term member so not sure the Arbtalk mods & Steve can do anything or should. Fortunately I have never had any issues like this!
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Lets do a virtual group hug:thumbup:
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Always a pleasure to know our ramblings helped a fellow Arbtalker. Glad you caught it in time as the hole often gets big enough to let in air which leans the mix and pop, one seized engine. Thanks for letting us know.
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chainsaw clutch drum needle roller lubrication?
spudulike replied to David Heaf's topic in Chainsaws
The chain running on at idle is most likely worn clutch springs. It is usual for the needle bearing to shed its grease over a short period of time - it doesn't harm in most cases! If anyone wants a clean Dolmar 123, I have a nice one ready to go and looks low hours! It wont break the bank:thumbup: -
Personally I haven't got a clue what you are doing but this link should help with product selection - http://www.loctite.co.uk/uke/content_data/189814_Product_Selector.pdf If you are locking a thread, be careful which one you select as some are permanent and others are semi permanent bonding agents.
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Doom and Duke Nukeum......shake em baby shake em:thumbup:
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I often charge neighbours in beer - a crate for a small job or two for a little larger. The noise I make in sorting saws pisses some off but hard to sound off at a guy who has just helped you sort out his garden for a favour:thumbup: Most of my neighbours owe me one way or another - the rest have purchased saws off me or I have fixed theirs - play the game.......and be good at it:thumbup: Got a date in Gods Garden in a few weeks - the village sorting out the Churchyard for the winter - always get a big thank you and some more brownie points:thumbup:
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I currently have a scrapper of a 560 sent in by the owner as an experiment to see what I can get out of it. Not worked on it yet but will port and tune it to see what is possible.
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If this repair all cocks up, I have some oversize options I have used in the past:001_rolleyes:
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If it is an Xtorq, check the fuel line or replace it now, I had two in recently that have had this issue - both seized:thumbdown: Other than that - it is possible the fuel filter is getting stuck to the back of the tank, especially if the fuel line is short. It is possible that the L screw is a bit rich and the fuel puddles in the bottom of the crankcase and stalls the engine. Check the blue kill wire running from the coil to the kill switch - it may be shorting. Check the fuel tank breather is OK and if all else fails, get the carb cleaned - it is probably fuel related and it won't hurt.
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Sounds like they are after any business you can't manage due to size or complexity. Ask for a referal fee if you pass work to them!
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Basically, whatever I can get. Got a load of two year seasoned conifer, a bit of Elm and oak. It all burns and is free!
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No Problem, always a pleasure:thumbup:
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Mmmm - the concept of a bio degradable chain oil confused them also. I have had a fair bit off them in the past, sometimes service is a bit iffy but generally their prices are good. L&S are a class act, professional and quick supply:thumbup:
