spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Da na Na na Na na Na.....ANGUS........ANGUS:thumbup:
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Glad you are happy with it, it is always good to know. Thanks
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I have a magnifying glass in my workshop, bad light makes my eyesight much worse - the joys of getting old..........shame my behaviour isn't more adult:lol:
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Funny enough, that is pretty much what I do and it has made a few think, especially as employers - not too clever handing a modded saw to an employee to do your work. I prefer to be 100% honest in what I do! ADW - no issue, it has come up before and there are pros and cons to the arguments. This only started when I got a bit bored in the workshop and grew a bit and then guys asked me to do their saws. I am thinking I need to draw up a contract that states clearly what the implications are and point out possible dangers. In reality, a ported saw allows larger cutting with a lighter powerhead so less fatigue on the body and less risk of fatigue related problems but that is one part of the story. Thanks for the suggestions!
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OK, so we know what the worst case scenario is......what is the solution, guys want their saws modded, I am happy to do this but don't fancy a law suit. This type of work is big in the US and that is litigation country. What do I do......stop................carry on and take the risk................get the owner to sign away any liabillity??? What is both ethical and fair - what would you do????
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A pressure check will tell you if it is shot. Other than that, block the inlet and exhaust port, put a plug in and pump air in the impulse line (hopefully it is a separate pipe) and put soapy water around the seal to see if it bubbles. If the impulse is integral to the inlet manifold, you will need to block it and adapt a spark plug. You could fill the crankcase with fuel and see if it leaks out!
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It is possible the bearing/seal has failed on the flywheel side and the oil is in fact petrol/oil mix coming out of the crankcase.
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A difficult one as I have never been in this position but the modification I do isn't illegal and breaks no laws. Can or will it injure - the chain speed is unlikely to come out of the maximum free-standing speed of something like a 242XP, the power of say a 346XP will be nowhere near that of a MS660, the torque of a 346XP will be nowhere near a MS660 so it isn't as if I am making something operate out of normal conditions. I guess I could or should get a document to state it is a modified saw and as such may not meet the original CE markings or safety requirements of the original saw but it gets to that crunchy area where you think...bollocks, it isn't worth it anymore! One to ponder on I guess!
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A picture may save a thousand words, anyone hot any good pics? I personally know what's what - this is for people that don't
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I guess the same can be asked of chipped cars or any equipment that is modified. I usually make sure that the saw is to be used by the owner of the saw and not by employees as their safety and duty of care is up to their employer. In short, I modify a saw, it is up to the owner to use it safely. All modified saws get their chainbrake and chain catcher checked over and it surprises me the number that come in with the chain catcher missing! if I damaged myself with one of my modified saws, I would put it down as an accident but am as sure as I can be that the accident would have probably occurred with or without the modification.
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Good ethics - nice to see this in the world of A holes we live in:001_rolleyes:
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Will PM you!
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You can probably get a gasket kit off ebay or Garden Hire Spares/GreenStripe are good, You can drop the base gasket and use a high temp liquid gasket to seal the joint - it will give extra oomph but make sure you clear the carbon from the squish band if you do this!
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Muffler mod, open and re-shape the inlet and exhaust ports, reshape the upper transfers, open and flow the lowers a little, muffler mod and lower the squish - it will put a smile on your face and go like a scalded cat:thumbup: I also make sure the engine is airtight and make sure the piston and bore are in good shape whilst I am at it plus the fuel system gets a going over - bit like an indepth service with some heavy modification!
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Sounds about right, most faults are fuel related, lots of piston seizures and wear, some crank seals and rubber parts and a few crank and bearing issues. Fault diagnosis is the real skill - being able to sniff out the fault like Sherlock Holmes - thats the real skill:thumbup:
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TBH, the piston skirts generally wear first and the seal around the piston is almost as important as the seal on the ring. I have had saws make decent compression but have no go because the piston fit was poor. You also run the risk of free porting around the worn piston. Anyway - a tenner or 30 pound - not much difference and the piston rings on Meteor pistons are by Caber - one of the best!
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A good result for the customer, outstanding customer service!
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You need to know if the saw is the older 45cc version or the NE New Edition one which is 50cc. The later saws had silver coloured clutch covers and fuel pump bulbs on the top cover. The later piston - HUSQVARNA 346XP - 44.3MM "METEOR" PISTON KIT | eBay The earlier one - Piston Kit fit HUSQVARNA 345, 345 e, 346 XP & EPA (42mm) - Kolben | eBay There are other sellers on ebay but can vouch for DACK, DANICROP and MAX MOTO - all are reliable sellers. In answer to your question, if the plating on the cylinder is OK then the piston will have a good effect, especially when bedded in. I do tend to very lightly hone the bore to break the glaze and to allow the rings to bed in quickly.
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Worth looking at the seals whilst you are at it, the glass often has some heat resistant tape on it as well!
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Depends - some Stihl saws have a threaded boss that allows for a screw in puller to be used. Most strimmers wont have this so a legged puller should do the trick - when under a fair tension, give the end of the puller top end a whack with a hammer and it should pop off. Sometimes tapping a big screwdriver in behind the flywheel and whacking the crank end with a hard mallet will pop it off. make sure you don't whack it in too heavily as you don't want to bruise the alloy. Before you do this - you need to remove the flywheel nut - you will need to lock the flywheel in place and this can be done with one of those double ended Stihl piston stops or using thick recoil rope pushed in to the spark plug hole but make sure the rope doesn't come out of the exhaust port! Easy:thumbup:
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And that is the correct answer Andy:thumbup:
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TBH, I very rarely have felt the need to consult a service manual apart from tolerence info or for removal of parts where it isn't obvious how it comes apart. Usually I use aerosol caps to store the screws and then take each cover off storing each covers screws in one aerosol cap. Pull the muffler and remove the carb and then off with the cylinder etc It is how you learn...........or cock it up and send it in a box of bits to someone like me who has to fathom out what goes where:lol:
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chainsaw clutch drum needle roller lubrication?
spudulike replied to David Heaf's topic in Chainsaws
It is surprising the amount of guys that want the most performance from a saw and send it in for porting and the first thing I find is a bunged up airfilter:001_rolleyes: Guys......run 100 yards and then, when recovered, do it with an oily cloth over your nose and mouth and understand what I am saying!!!! -
Nice - it is when you find it in your hair........two days later:001_rolleyes:
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I would stick to 1.3mm, the wider kerf will rob power by having to cut more wood out of the cut - never good unless you have lots of power on tap! I agree with the above!
