spudulike

Worth checking the internal carb gauze filter under the cover with the single screw and the manufacturers name on it. If it is full of sawdust, it will starve the saw of fuel when flat out but it may just be a partial seizure. Worth checking the coil to flywheel gap although this usually stops the saw working when warm. Check all is well with the plug!

Probably fuel related but it may just be wear on the piston and needs a new one. These saws usually make 170 psi easily but 150+ should be ok.

It is a worry isn't it - I had one old fella I sold a saw to say that the chain wasn't spinning - I said "you have taken the chain brake off haven't you" him...eerrrrrrrr:blushing: Me - "step in to my workshop for a little tuition....and hour later!!!!! Just fixed up a Hayter 305L - it was hunting all over the place and sounding real rich/rough, cleaned the carb and replaced a filthy oily air filter, all good. Sharpened the blade, replaced the recoil rope and did an oil change - another happy customer!

In my experience, the duff coils I have had have given off a weak spark when the saw is pulled over fast and this only lasts for around half a second - enough to give you a small belt but nothing at all after this. You should have a big fat white spark and not a thin small blue/yellow one!

Got a few options - try a new bearing and if it is still wobbly, fit a new drum and check again or just fit a complete new set all at one time - around £30. You could measure the diameter of the clutch and see if it is say 16.4 mm when it should be 16mm, you could try swapping the bearing round the other way and see if it is less wobbly but personally would just change all the parts as they have a serviceable life.

£70 - £120, this time of year there are many log burner warriors on ebay who have no idea which model is what so you may get lucky if you do a nice listing with perhaps a vid of it working!

I have had this a few times and it is common if the bearing starts going that it takes out the softer drum but generally, the crank survives as it is much harder. I usually just purchase the whole lot as a kit that sorts the issue.

Had a reasonably busy time, had a MS362 in that is not pulling that well and wanted a muffler mod. I have given it a clean up, the clutch drum had excessive wobble on it so a new kit will be fitted. The throttle lock is a bit knackered so will be replaced and have done a muffler mod to get the saw going a bit faster. My experience with this model is that they are a bit sluggish for a 60cc saw and certainly no 357/560XP that's for sure - don't know if the C-M version with autotune is better! Also refurbing a very clean Dolmar 123 as a deal has been struck!

Sealall dries hard, not used Dirko but anything that dries and is petrol resistant - the standard fitting has no sealant so you really shouldn't need it but sometimes you need to do this. you can pump up the tank through the fuel line and use bubbly water to see where the leak is. The vent will leak but there should be no leakage around the fuel pipe.

There is no valve in the tube - this is the part that stops fuel running out of the breather when the saw is on its side as the top of it will be above the fuel in the tank like a snorkel. There are a couple of options - usually the 372 has the grey tube pushed in to the hole with the white plastic disk pushed in to the grey tube. This should seal it but the disk does let air through to let the tank breath. Some 372XP & XTorq saws have a valve pushed in to the grey tube also and a tube coming in to the airbox to let the saw breath, from memory, I think this pushes in to a connector near where the impulse like comes through the barrier between the cylinder and carb area of the air box. The fuel could be coming from where the fuel line pushes through in to the tank, this is common and a new piece should fix it. If the seal on the grey pipe isn't good, clean the parts and used a glue called "Sealall", it is good at this sort of stuff:thumbup: Pushing the fuel cap in and doing it up usually pressurises the tank for a short period and causes these issues.

I got a pair or Erbauer drills and three batteries a few years back off ebay for £40. They are NiCd batteries but the drills have been very good - they are returns from Screwfix and do the job - they are only used for DIY and the odd bit of chainsaw modification though!

Ah, that's the devils lead - the saw won't work on a Sunday with a red lead:001_rolleyes:

Limit caps stop this in a more acceptable manner but more importantly, the "e carbs" stop people like you or I fixing/repairing them or getting any data off them....unless you have shelled out on expensive software and interface cable or are a dealer! I know you can't stand in the way of progress but reliability out in the field is what these guys need and I know when I fire up an auto tune, it is damn weird not to be grabbing for the tuning screw driver to set it up - and if it won't run right......?????? I have no answers either!

Unfortunately - I think you are right:thumbdown: Time may well improve these auto-tune machines but fuel system issues are one of the most common faults and it doesn't help having sealed units where you can't clean out any resins or shyte from the internals, non adjustable carbs are also a real issue. Until these fuel systems are like the ones on your car, the reliability will always be an issue! They are very clever at maximising torque and top end power but a lower powered saw is better than a non working one. Glad your ported saw has proved to be reliable - all good:thumbup:

Hows the 372XP Chris - still going strong:001_huh: Got to say I like the 3 series Huskys the best!

A limited coil will rev to the limited rpm and then it will flash up spurious rpm on the tach and will not rev above the max revs of the coil. You can ease the revs up bit by bit on the throttle to measure where the coil is limited. 8krpm sounds very low by modern standards - a small 50cc saw should be 13krpm - 14.5krpm. Often the manufacturers stamp the max revs on the coil body - well Husky do:thumbup: and they are blue in colour

A fair price IMO, I would sell unless you are skint and it is the only running saw you have.

Just use it, if it pops, investigate fitting a new cylinder and piston. It is rare a seize causes issues with the bottom end.

It looks like there is no useful advice here:001_rolleyes: just a load of piss takers as usual:lol:

Well that isn't too shabby:thumbup: My mod usually gains 15-20psi. Go careful with that first pull as my modified saws have buggered up a large number of Schrader valves on Gunson compression gauges - best give the thing a few slow pulls to get some pressure up first! A warm/hot reading will also register a lower compression than stone cold plus a machine that hasn't run for a long while will read less as the oil and fuel will have dried off from around the ring and piston lowering the sealing around the piston.

Just got a cheap meter with four prongs, it does the job. On two year seasoned wood it goes down to 15%, on year seasoned wood 20-25% on green or damp wood it is 30-40% on kiln dried softwood building timber - down to 5%. It works, it tells me I can burn wood at under 25% and indicates if the timber is seasoned or not. You need to push the prongs in reasonably firmly but that is pretty obvious - all you are doing with these things is measuring the conductivity of the wood after all!

Yes, it is deceased, it is no more, it is a dead saw:thumbdown:

I took a look at the 560XP before I packed it up to send it back - you may remember that the stuffer had disintegrated and taken out the top end. My findings were that the exhaust port can be widened and the shape can be significantly changed to increase flow. The inlet port hasn't got a massive amount to be done although the manifold had a lip on it and could have been a better fit. I was impressed by the straight run from the carb in to the cylinder - no chance of impeding the flow there! The uppers could be taken back a little but only on the top as they are very close to the air ports for the Husky version of Strato transfers. I didn't look too much at the lowers but no doubt they could be flowed somewhat as well. The muffler was pretty choked with baffle plates - getting rid should help a lot! That's about it, didn't get the time to put the timing wheel on it or experiment with squish etc. All in all, you can see why the saw pulls like a horse - straight inlet tract, transfers to the front of the saw for maximum velocity aided by the crank and an acute exhaust exit angle to aid scavenging - very nice design in this saw!

There isn't a massive amount of traditional porting you can do on these saws but the flow can be increased with mods to the exhaust and piston plus the squish can be lowered.

Thanks, been a long time in the coming - just too busy fixin saws:001_rolleyes: