spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Make sure the gap is set with a typical business card and yank it harder as the vicar said to the actress
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Got enough challenges with my customers saws! I do wonder what would happen if you did get one of these saws and do the works on it but haven't got the time and really can't be bothered as I have better things to do! Hope your saws are behaving now?
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Personally I would look at buying something like a Stihl MS260 in relatively decent shape. They are pretty robust and spares are also easy to find and lots of aftermarket kit if you need to keep the costs down. You liked the MS362, why go down several levels and realise that you have made a mistake when you find the Efco a bit "Home owner" rather than pro arb!
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Feck off......with the greatest of disrespect!
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stihl Replacing cylinder and piston Stihl MS 260
spudulike replied to Craig Howe's topic in Chainsaws
Never seen long noise and rounded noise pliers, all my pliers have noses -
There is a flanged bush 537 20 28-01 that fits on the crankcase, this gets put in place, the chain brake handle spigot is placed in or near the hole it needs to fit in to above the recoil cover side, the chain brake handle hole that fits on the flanged bush is placed over it, the sprung bar 505 20 12-01 is pushed back with a small screw driver as the handle is pushed in to place. It is relatively easy and simple task.....the bolt 526 83 45-01 is then put back in the hole and done up so it meets the flanged bush however you cant see it mating! http://www.hsqintec.sk/vykres/t540xp-mot.-pila.pdf
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stihl Replacing cylinder and piston Stihl MS 260
spudulike replied to Craig Howe's topic in Chainsaws
So it needs new clutch springs to get over the chain running at idle and 026/MS260s suffer with the piston skirts wearing. Fit a decent piston and new springs, worth checking the plating especially if it has an earlier wire mesh air filter but seems like and easy refurb to me! -
Been working on this MS880, it has been seized and has some mighty strange damage to the top front edge of the piston crown. It almost looks like pre-ignition or a porous casting. The bore cleaned up nicely, Meteor piston arrived today and am porting it - will check the flywheel key and set the mix a bit lower just to make sure as it looked like the top end was nearly new - another fine repair by others!
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Ah, who said you couldn't kill two birds with one stone Glad all is good again.
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Feed them through the chipper! Burger anyone?
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I don't do the Apple thing but am sure this is useful to those that do. I am running a Moto E4 Plus and get between 5-7 days per charge.....I find this Orgasmic TBH.
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Was that your eBay listing Steve? Looks like a good night out the day before
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I am sure Matt has been called many things in his life but a "Golden Orb" is probably a first! Nice job though, looks really impressive.
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That carbon isn't the issue for your poor running, it can be cleaned off by lightly rubbing with scotch-bright but isn't a concern. A compression check is worth doing and if it is 150-170, the pot and piston are probably OK. Clutches can make a saw sound pretty ropey at low revs. The saw top looks pretty clean so it is probably in good condition but worth checking the crank bearings. Set the carb back to one turn out on both screws and see if it livens it up.
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You can tune the carb a bit more if you like but you need to have a good feel for it as you can really cock things up if you deviate from the normal settings - these are one turn each on both screws, the little bit more ensures correct starting, idle and flat out revs as a little lean can cause issues with poor starting (L screw) and seizure (H screw) Just leave the plug as is, put an hour or two on the saw and see what colour it is - light to dark tan is fine, black means you will need to lean up the high screw a little but go VERY carefully as too lean will make the saw go pop. Glad you sorted it, looks like I may know what I am up to after all
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I would just set the carb to around 1&1/8th turn out on each screw and adjust the idle to be normal without the chain spinning. If limiters are fitted then just turn the L screw fully out and leave the H screw as is. If this doesn't solve it, you should try the internal carb gauze strainer as it can get clagged up with woodchip. If the diaphragms are OK and the strainer is OK, then it may be one of the issues I mentioned which will be the next step. Always difficult to find an issue without seeing the body!
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Just read back through the thread, it is a Husky 350....not a bad saw but can have issues. The impulse connector on the inlet manifold/boot tends to split or get squashed when being rebuilt by the inexperienced. Also, the saw can get air leaks where the cylinder mount meets the engineered plastic bottom end. The plastic tends to warp and cause leaks, you can usually tell when doing a leak down test.
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Seems a bit excessive writing off a saw with a good crank and top end!
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Go careful on leaning the H screw as it can seize the saw. Only do it if your sparkplug looks jet black and not if the plug is tan in colour!
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That stalling is probably the L screw being a bit lean, the H screw too rich making the saw load up under load or a bit of an air leak.
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Yup, they were going the wrong way
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Teslas financials looked a bit dodgy. From the press, it said they were in the process of asking for early payment on orders not yet delivered to keep the company in the black and out of the red!
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illustrated parts list!
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Got a tub of Taylors of Bond Street shaving soap and a brush. My preconceptions were that all the talk of expensive grooming products was a load of balls but after using it for one day, my face post shave was very noticeably less dry, red and "abraded" and at the end of the day, it is smoother and feels softer so am actually quite impressed. I think much of the art is in re-lathering after each pass and that really seems to work. My first attempt with the new safety razor wasn't great but wasn't using the new soap and was still in cartridge mode rather than using less pressure! Time and experience will tell!
