spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It isn't because you may have an iPhone using the same account and it is Apple making sure both devices are yours?
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I think this thread was better dead and buried than resurrected like it is now!
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I have had quite a few gearboxes in bits and normally you find various bearings have failed. The HL135 bearings in the shaft clamp section go and the grease takes on a silvery hard compacted composition and the inner races get very loose. In the trimmer part, the con rod rollers fall out causing issues and you then get the main gear pinion shaft bearings failing - the rollers get caught in the gears and can make bearings fail or gears get damaged. The grease may be grey and hard or just not there as it has been forced out over time. My thinking is if you are re-greasing regularly, the new grease will tend to shift the old grease about so it doesn't go hard and old. I would think a yearly pre seasonal service would be a good idea, one where all old grease is purged and new introduced then follow the 25hr or once a week system (if the unit is used daily) to keep the parts in good shape.
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My ethos is that any grease is better than no grease. Most gearboxes get knocked out by not greasing - the manufacturers recommendation is every 25 hrs and that isn't a great deal of time. I personally use a big tin of Lithium based grease rather than spending out silly amounts of money on little tubes of ...........! Regular greasing is the answer and doesn't often get done and remember to do ALL the greasing points including the one on the shaft clamp!
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Seems That Makita UK/Dolmar Salesman are lying to us!
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
Unfortunately, it is the modern way, a very small percentage of people who actually know what they are doing and the rest blagging it and making out they are the dogs Bs -
I gather that the Spice Girls are reforming but alas, not with Posh.....they are like a bad case of Foot and Mouth in their reoccurrence
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More like farmers droop
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There were changes in bore size on both the MS260 and 346XP, I always put that down to both manufacturers trying to get dominance in this sector of chainsaw!
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Now you got me - I think it is the normal "D" one but it has been a while since I worked on one of these saws - I have around 10 different tuning carbs and I did manage to get it adjusted OK. I did find the carb was very strange to set up, had to lift the metering arm much higher than I would have normally expected otherwise it would just run through the fuel in the metering section and pull no more through....weird!
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Just go to the French dealers and ask the question! We are all in the EU for the time being and unless they have been instructed not to ship to the UK, they should do it. Other option of getting a French fella to purchase one and send it on is probably reasonable. I guess you could plan a long weekend in France, the Euro Tunnel is pretty good!
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Just scrapped a 2 year old very nice condition 261 for having a worn crank where the needle bearing detonated and took out the crank.....shocking build quality! The crank is 10mm so measure the crank with digital vernier calipers on the very end (should be 10mm) and then on each end of the part of the shaft where the needle bearing usually sits. 0.2mm is excessive and over this is scrap. If you visually inspect the crank shaft under light and magnifying glass, the surface should be very smooth and not look pitted and rough anywhere the bearing sits! Personally I am appalled that these machines have such a fundamental issue with no recall by the manufacturer as they need constant attention to ensure they don't damage the crank and oiler mechanism!
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I believe so although there may be the odd one or two who don't concur
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You can store your details on the Autotune ........looks like it has already been done against the previous owner.
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Don't knock the company as they are really very good and this is old news from the darling people at Stihl. L&S told me that as an existing customer, they were more than happy to continue supplying me and so it should be. I think that any supplier would be happy to take my orders and good sense has prevailed!
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Yup, North Herts around 30 miles North of London. Swinging by or courier both fine as others have stated! PM me if you need further info.
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It depends on if he has the factory interface. He may have updated the latest firmware but there is little that can be done other than that - perhaps resetting to default but that's about it. Personally I would whip the muffler off and look at the piston through the exhaust port. You can also measure the compression as a good indication of the general state of the engine. It does sound like a lazy mechanic UNLESS he has seen that the piston has nipped up but a new piston would sort that!
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Looks like my 10,600 posts and 660,000 views to my "What's on your bench today" has gone unnoticed and must try harder
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Ah, I cleared the last Tsunami of broken kit and am on a even keel again but am awaiting another load I backed of until I got back a day ago from holiday. I can always fit in another MS200T
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The symptoms of the issue may be interesting!
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The Autotune will register the running time of the saw which would be interesting. The saw may have had a nip up or you may not give the air filter the cleaning it really needs and fine particles may have worn the piston. Your mechanic may be giving you a load of old todge, however, these autotune saws are very sensitive to wear in the bore - you cant just up the idle on them and makes for frustrated repair technicians!
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The side handle screws are probably the short ones that should be in the bottom and the long ones in the bottom, should go in the side of the handle, seen it before, usually when the tank gets holes?
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That video is not much use but these usually make a clattering noise from a worn clutch so the new one should have sorted it. The pawls on the flywheel may be stuck or sticky and may be snagging on the flywheel at idle -they should open against the spring pressure and keep from rubbing on the recoil pulley. Other than that, the vibration may be that the wrong location bolts have been used in the bottom of the top handle and are knocking the underside of the oil tank or the av limit screws by the clutch and flywheel are not correct or don't have the rubber buffers fitted.
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Yes, spot on, you are basically sucking air out replicating fuel leaving the tank and you would expect air to enter via the vent returning the tank to atmospheric pressure (no pressure or vacuum -Zero) in under a second with no build up of vacuum in the tank that remains present for a couple of seconds or more. You may have sealed the new vent in with some compound that may have sealed the vent?
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Why don't you just suck air from the fuel tank through the fuel line and see if the vacuum drops as it should as air enters the tank through the vent. Your leak-down tester will do the job.
