spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sorry Josephine, I will be less eloquent in future and call parts "doofas", "thingies" and "whotsits" just for you
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It was a very valid suggestion and may well be correct!
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Is that what we are talking about....bloody hell you can get them anywhere!
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Probably a big ol air leak. Normal suspects are impulse line or the intake manifold........but what do I know
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Out of stock at L&S but phone them and get them to advise a lead time. They are always pretty good IMO.
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My one looked OK but stripped it down and looked a bit crappy so changed it and bingo....running trimmer. It is worth oiling the blades as well as sometimes they bind and makes the operator think the machine is underpowered.
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The fact the issue is still there with all the clutch assembly off the machine tells me that the carb has a few issues or the piston has nipped up. You need to look at the piston through the exhaust port and if that is OK, strip and inspect the carb checking the main components.
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Received and answered. Thanks
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Try changing the fuel filter, just done one and it had similar issues and it was the fuel filter. Don't buy a new ignition coil as it costs £££ and wastes £££ if it isn't faulty!
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Cornwall, Huntingdon, Oswestry.....and the 390......Kent
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Trouble is that it is where the saw gets a few knocks and is likely to damage anything stuck on.
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Well I thought so but you have me thinking
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Now a RingPuffer
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Just ordered a Spannklammer......ding dong!
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OK, sounds like it is leaking between the mating surfaces. Next thing to do is to work out where the screws are that provide the clamping action between the two crankcase halves and to torque them down hard - don't go mad to the point they snap but tighten them. If it still leaks then...you are buggered - bottom end split, new gasket and rebuild. A lot of expense in there and a relatively big job for someone. If part of the gasket hasn't been sucked in to the tank then it should reseal but if it has been pulled in then it will be almost impossible to push back in to the gap and re-clamp. I have had some success re-tightening older 560XP cases - the 461s are generally OK but this would be my course of action!
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Don't know but I have got a raft of 70cc+ Huskys in at the moment, I think people are finding them under their benches and getting them refurbished now they have heard the news. Just ported a brand new 390XP for someone, pure bliss working on a new machine, nice job and should be a real ripper
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It may sort it or just mask the real issue that may cause further damage. If the saw has been running fine for years and is now surging or pulsing something has changed and you now need to find out what. Have you cleaned the breather under the cover where the top handle joins to the side of the saw?
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Sounds like the carb is having trouble delivering fuel at high speed or perhaps the clutch is shot. Can't really tell from the description but the fuel issue is more likely.
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Well I like the sound of that, do they keep your hands warm in the winter or is it like an airbag for a chainsaw?
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Probably be a bit of a project and weapon - would be nice for Sundays during the summer
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Damn, these chainsaw manufacturers are at the cutting edge of technology aren't they, what can go wrong....https://www.odd-bike.com/2012/11/bimota-v-due-500-bike-that-killed-bimota.html
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The record was a 372 in from France with the massive fault of....a dirty air filter! It is about time people purchased air compressors!
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Probably low compression or the piston has nipped at some stage. If the saw is a tool that needs to pay its way, you may consider getting it serviced by someone who knows what they are up to. The 2065 should pull pretty well and is a pro saw. In addition worth checking the fuel lines and fuel filter.
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You will probably find semi chisel more forgiving and easier to sharpen then full chisel.
