spudulike

You selling the ported 441 then??

Free wood here....I say free but I am a firm believer of the bartering system so tend to throw in a bit of help or a good servicing deal to offset one of the local guys dropping a bit of wood off for my log burner. Last lot was hornbeam....thanks Rob, before that lime....cheers Rich/Gareth and before that Acacia....thanks Andy. I have in the past, gone out and cut up fallen boughs from the side of the road and fields with the owners permission but generally there are one or two customers wanting to get rid of some rings if you aren't too sniffy on wood types.

Trebuchet to be precise

Take it in to your local dealer and get a price for rebuilding it

Mister Solutions went tits up and Andy started a new company in his wifes name called Tree and Grass Spares (his company name not his Mrs) and trades predominantly on eBay. L&S are a quality supplier of Stihl and many other parts.

I think I can fix it Someone will still pay good money for it on eBay

Electric or Petrol? If electric - the motor usually starts up when you release the mains water pressure by pulling the lance trigger, a plunger mechanism registers the drop, a switch kicks in and the motor turns on. If the motor isn't switching, it is probably the switch or possibly the plunger that registers the drop in water pressure is stuck. Not done petrol ones but am guessing they work in a similar way.

There are some things in life where money spent equals a worthwhile expenditure - Optics (binoculars etc), HiFi, drills and ...tap and die sets. I have an old Hilka set from 70-80s and they are damn good taps - a good cheap ebay find. I like Vcoil helicoil stuff as it gives a well formed thread. The cheap Chinese stuff just doesn't cut the mustard...simple as that. The Chinese have the engineering to create a decent tap but we want cheap and that is what we get! For custom stuff like fitting new plug holes, I get a single tap to do the job and agree Dormer are the dogs but a bit pricy unless you are cutting threads every day. Brake Calipers - just get a new part - they are a safety device - who wants the dread in the heart when approaching backed up traffic to find no brake action....just saying - you may not get a second chance!

I did think that would be your normal "LOOK" from your typical posts

Hi Barrie....where have you been....had a weird coil once, the blower would idle beautifully for ages, pull the throttle and the thing would die but let it off and it would idle again.....and have had a few non working coils on these blowers same as you.

What are we supposed to use, harsh language "The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who, in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of the darkness. For he is truly his brother's keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know I am the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon you." You're only supposed to blow the bloody doors off “Torture you? That’s a good… that’s a good idea. I like that one, yeah.”

Now we know what model - yup, these blowers tend to wear through the kill circuit wires near the top of the recoil cover and have repaired a fair few. The usual sign is that you cant turn the machine off but I guess you could get a short of some sort. I have seen a few with metering arm issues where the arm has jammed open or the machine will run for a few seconds due to fuel starvation and lifting the arm a tad has sorted it hence my earlier comment.

Yup, best left to sort itself out. The title is major harsh as DPD are a pretty decent courier and the supplier looks to be being more than fair about the issue.

WTF is a rev trigger BTW

Firstly, that big blob of glue is stopping your saw revving out as it should and isn't a great idea and yup, I have seen this problem before and the fix is pretty logical, by pulling the throttle trigger closed, the mechanism pulls the throttle open fully and then tries to open it that little bit further and something has to give and that is, the throttle rod pops out of position. You just need a bit more slack in the two throttle control rods as currently, they are too short!

I was thinking Mobylette or Gitane!

The above comment is one I was going to make. I have used DPD in the past and have had no issues with them, they do take photos of the address front door when trying to deliver and post them on their tracking info page. It is easy to knock the courier but I see the other side where they are legging it up my drive to collect or drop off kit so I always help them shift the boxes to the van etc and have a good relationship with the DHL, Parcelforce and APC guys that deliver and pickup my parcels. I have had guys pickup kit as late as 9.45pm, sure, I have had a few issues - the one where my delivery to Ireland ended up in Birmingham was good and one delivered to the wrong Garage in Ireland aged me but.....they all got there in the end. The way I think the law works is that the supplier is responsible up to the point the goods are delivered to the person or the designated place the customer has told the courier to leave them. That is what I picked up on one of the radio shows on my travels - don't know if it has changed. If the courier has just left it outside your house without the customers agreement then my personal view is the courier is at fault if it goes walkies! I also sympathise with couriers delivering to people that know they will not be in when placing and order - must be bloody frustrating when delivering 100 parcels on a shift and coming back with 30% of them!

Magneto....what is it, a 1960s French/Italian moped Sounds like the carb isn't delivering fuel correctly, check the metering arm and try giving it a bit of a lifting bend of 0.5mm but do check the carb internal gauze strainer first - the one under the alloy cover with a single screw holding it in place. I am making the assumption this is a BG85/86 and not one of the back-pack jobbies!

Good luck with this, from what I see, the saws generally only come in when they are totally knackered or someone wants their saw modified. Preventative maintenance was something that went out the window when I left my 22 years of manufacturing!! I am amazed that if you have say a top handle, 50cc and 70cc saw, that you would not get them serviced regularly if you haven't got backup saws but there you go and I am genuinely NOT looking for more work.

The biggest issue on these cheap toppers is that the uninitiated think they are "nice little saws" so may be safer due to them being more compact. Unfortunately they don't see that using them one handed leaves the other in a position where it can be cut off and when being used two handed, they afford much less control with your hands being so close together.

It always concerns me that you may break one of the legs off the boss using this method. A lot does rest on how often the clutch had come off in the past. Some are damn difficult and need "The BIG gun" to shift them...038s, 044s and O88s seem to be favourites to be locked solid.

Watch out on MS150s and also if the flywheel has been off prior to using an impact gun.....just saying!

Better keep the dealers names to yourself then!

An impact gun can shear the keys when used on some saws, MS150s are prone to this. You will need the service tool as previously mentioned to use an impact gun. Rope is OK as long as the piston covers the top of the exhaust port when inserted and does work OK. Not having a hex boss on the clutch is a loss on these saws as it makes life a lot easier.