spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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A bit extreme, the beauty of the two stroke is set port timing, very few moving parts and complexity compared to a four stroke engine. But - go ahead and I guess most of us have 6 weeks + of being locked up so plenty of time to fiddle....good luck!
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I emailed them today as I couldn't add parts on backorder as I would normally and was told that their suppliers are shutting up shop and they will not be able to supply them until this pandemic is over. I have just tried and it looks like you can still add Husqvarna parts to your basket. With Stihl parts, this doesn't work - unfortunate as 90% of my work is Stihl in my area.
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If L&S haven't got the parts in stock, they won't be able to supply as the supply chain is shutting down and it is causing a few issues for me and probably others. I guess all parts suppliers will be similar unless you want aftermarket.
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What is the reason to know the duration and opening timings of your saw? TBH, you will need a timing wheel, a method of fixing it to your saw, a pointer and then there are a number of ways that the durations can be expressed so you will need to get your head round those if comparing them. A little knowledge can sometimes be dangerous!
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Not tried the ball ones as they are a bit pricy but use a 2 or 3 stone small bore ones. They do the job as long as you don't go mad. Get rid of any transfer first and then hone it.
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The type of pump depends on how you use it. Backup saw then Hyway may last but if it is a daily use saw, OEM all day long.
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Looks like we have a bit of trouble ahead, parts are now in constraint, suppliers are only supplying what they have in stock and the supply chain is running dry. Not good news!
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Yes, carb off and is under the cover with the brass angled pipe sticking out of it - about the diameter of a pencil and really needs pulling out as it can have dried scum in it which isn't that apparent. If it isn't picking up cleanly from idle then a small anticlockwise turn on the L screw may sort your issue. Doing this may lower your idle speed and is 100% normal and it will also need a slight tweak. The oil pump adjuster - there is a gear connected to the pump shaft. The gear has an ANGLED flat top and the adjuster varies the amount the gear moves sideways (Not rotationally). More movement means more oil. The adjuster has a small ball on the end of it and if it is close to the centre of the gear, it pumps less. If it is near the edge, it pumps much more as the whole shaft and gear move more. It makes sense if you have the thing in front of you!
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Courgettes, Cucumber, Toms (Cherry and normal), Lettuce, Chilli and chives all doing well in the green house, runner beans in pots seeds just planted, Spring onions in the ground and doing well. The only hindrance has been a cat shitting in my veggie patch so have had to put a fence around it....I hate shitting cats! Haven't done all this for years, one of the positive aspects to this Chinese Virus!
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Yes, caught me out once and always pressure test them now.
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I did mean the internal gauze strainer in regards to the 372 sounding like it was lacking fuel, the other option is a split fuel line where it pushes through the wall in the fuel tank where they can split and leak air giving this sort of issue. These are the things I generally check when servicing these saws. Bit difficult to follow the dialogue!
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Probably a bit of crud in the gauze carb filter.
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You just need the new pulley and move the washer, pawl, rope/handle and retaining pawl spring to the new pulley. The old pulleys tend to eat the ergo start springs and is bloody annoying!
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He seems to have posted this twice and ADW has said what I have said on the other post!
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Looking closer at your machine photos, it looks like residual oil from revving the machine and not from normal cutting as when you cut, the oil ends up in the wood and chip and not running off the machine.
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Does it leak along the bar and chain The oil should come out of the oiler channel, enter the bar and is pushed along the bar by the movement of the chain drive links. If you stand there and rev it for 10-20 seconds, the oil will be flung off the bar, bar cover and drip out of the bottom of the saw. If the saw is left running, no oil should drip out of the underside of the saw, the chain shouldn't move either as the oiler will only work when the chain is spinning. Older machines would constantly oil but most modern machines don't. This model can leak from the rubber pipe leading from the oil tank to the oil pump but a new machine shouldn't leak like this.
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Is this a free service you offer, you may be on to something
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I would rather stick chilli covered angry wasps up the old posterior!!!
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I have the exact same set, the pointer on the big black handle is a sprung loaded centre point, the round punches screw on to the handle, you place the point on the material you want to punch a hole in, you compress the centre point then belt the end of the handle with a mallet. They are for punching holes in leather, gasket, rubber etc. Useful in making gaskets or circular disks of rubber/leather for gaskets and rudimentary seals etc. I believe they may be RS Component ones.
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Just one of the reasons I hate these bloody saws to work on!
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From the symptoms it sounds like lack of fuel. You could try turning the L screw a 1/4 turn anticlockwise - that is if your carb has the L&H screws and isn't the single screw one. If this doesn't work, it could be a blocked gauze filter in the carb or dirty fuel filter. You don't say what age the saw is but if it is an old one, the fuel line could be split or the carb diaphragms may be past their best. The plug colour you have got just tells you that flat out, the saw is running as it should and not that everything else is OK which probably rules out a split fuel line.
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L&S are pretty damn good, fast delivery and always tell you if there is a delay. Out of stock parts are generally fulfilled pretty fast.
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Measure the compression, one pull should be circa 75psi and then around 170psi after 6 pulls. If it is considerably lower, there is wear. The first pull can be quite indicative of issues. 346XPs often feel low on the handle! If low, roughen the bore lightly with a hone and fit a new Meteor piston, it will last many more years.
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The 50cc goes on the 45cc body, straight fit. Some will tell you the 50cc one needs the primer but I have done a couple and they work fine with no primer system as long as the machine is set up correctly.
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I heard their was a lack of PPE and there is the proof.....make sure you don't drop it on your tootsies
