spudulike

What compression gauge are you using? Some are made specifically for car engines where you crank the engine over a few times continuously with much larger cylinder volumes. You need to use a gauge specifically that will work with smaller bore engines. Have you checked the piston yet? In regards to the easy start, you have also used two carbs, why should it be a carb issue and not a top end issue?

Just re read your compression figures - your "PS in 2" is "PSI" and not in two pulls as I thought you meant. 125 PSI is very low for one of these saws where a worn one will make 150 and a lightly used/reburbished one will make 170PSI. You have seized your saw, take the exhaust off and you will be greeted by a scored piston! The Dolmar 113 and 350 are different types of machine, one pro and one home owner. The 345/350 are actually pretty good machines despite there plastic parts. They can leak air around where the metal cylinder parts mate with the plastic but are nice to use.

"Input Gaskets"......are you sure it is a 350??? There are no input gaskets!!!!

Why measure the compression in that way where everyone else will give it one to see what sort of initial compression a saw has - 70psi+ is normal then 5-6 to give max compression 150-170 is typical with 170 on a nice engine. Sounds like a top end issue to me but can't be sure as you may not have used a known decent OEM carb.

I reckoned it was Turkish in my first post......just a skill I have!! I have had two 346XPs in from the Turkish guy for one of my customers and they were 100% genuine Husqvarna product with NO doubt!

I was under the impression that the 262 was an XP machine in the range 242XP, 254XP, 262XP, 256XP, 271XP etc Generally if it has a vertically split crankcase, adjustable oiler and closed transfer ports, it is a pro saw and these were all pro saws. Most of Husqvarna 65-70cc machines use their larger mount size - I reckon you have the wrong bar, how does it not fit? I think the 262XP is the small mount and you may have the large mount bar?

Generally, each part will have a part number on it, the plastic covers and clutch cover will and will be in the format 503 62 80-01 which in this case is the air filter cover. Some parts may have "EM" on them - the metal clutch cover should, they should be marked "Made in Sweden" and they often have a date code in the style of a clock, one giving you the year of manufacture, the other the month of manufacture.

Is that the flat four Subaru engine straight out of the Impreza? Possibly a Wastegate issue?

The serial tag and box look genuine to me. Give me a minute and I would be able to tell straight away if it was in front of me. Turkish by any chance? The fake I saw had a super stiff recoil, the rubber pipes were soft and moulded with a flash mark down both sides and not like normal Husqvarna kit. Look for Mahle on the cylinder, A or B on the little flat by the spark plug and the usual moulded date codes and part codes on the different covers - if you are not sure!

I will PM you a price as that is how I do business. If I published a price, 50 people would say it was a bargain and 50 would say it was far too expensive and I can't be bothered with all that faf, if you want it done...fab......if you don't, make room for the others that do......pretty simple model TBH.

I got a friend a very clean one, it was ported and is his go to saw...one he will never part with...must have been good!

It often is and although I try to educate my customers, they seem to like to keep me in business!

It could be the low screw is a little lean but it could also be an air leak. If you are good at setting carbs then you can often tell if a saw has an air leak but if you haven't tuned saws daily then it is more difficult. The L screw should be 1 to 1&1/4 turns out, if the low screw is on this setting and your saw is racing like this then I would get it pressure and vacuum tested as the next thing to happen may be a seize and that isn't good. Air leak issues may be seals, impulse line, manifold issue/split or gasket issues.....you sometimes get a loose or cracked cylinder but it is rarer. If it was my saw............

I think taking the rock solid bar stud out of the lower clam to remove the engine doesn't help but to do simple cylinder work is a major pain on clam engines and with spares being difficult at the moment...........!

I am not sure about "down the bottom end", are you offering a personal service? You had better elaborate on what this means.....if it is about opening the metering section....I usually do just to check it out but it is the less problematic side.

Please don't...MS290 not my favourite that's for sure

Unless there is a flat on the other side of the pinion it looks OK. If the pickup pipe and filter isn't blocked - you can blow through it (Don't use a compressor as it will split the pipe). Take a close look at the pickup side of the oil pump and you may find a small plug of sawdust in the hole that will need to be cleared before reassembly. You can use a compressor from the other side or carb cleaner/WD40 etc. If that is all OK, the oiler should all work as these are the normal issues. I have seen a few blocked bar oiler holes and the owners not working it out!

Glad you are happy with the 395XP, been looking at other stuff tonight and missed all the fun - just knock the clutch off and take a look. The 550 I did last week had a really loose one and it was obvious without taking the clutch off but needed a new pinion and the clutch off to tighten the pump again. I use a tool for a 357 (think it is) which works just fine.

Yup, they certainly werenot that I ever did anything like that ever

I guess Ratman is getting to that age if he is checking his area for leakage, best get those Tennas on

The 560 and 550 pumps come loose and then the moving pump takes out the oil pinion. I have seen a fair number like that. The pump body is plastic and the mounting points are a bit lame, the screws come loose and then bingo, the pinion will wear to the point it doesn't contact the pump gear. If this happens, the oiler may put a little oil out without a bar but won't oil with either bar fitted. If you can prod the pump with a screwdriver, you may see it move if very loose.

You will need to clean the whole area and see where the oil is leaking from. If you can pressurize the tank by pumping air through the pickup pipe it should show if the tank has a leak or it may just need a new pump.

little tip, hold the clutch up against a light and see if you can see light between the coils, if not, change them. If the spring is under tension, you will be able to see light between the spring coils, if it is worn and relaxed, the spring coils will have closed up. Also look at the hooks, after a while they will wear significantly before breaking - mostly found on MS200Ts of an age! I did have a 441 in recently and the springs looked perfect, unworn but were slack and reckon they were aftermarket so stay OEM on these parts!

What sort od smell? Ours smells hot metallic for the first burn of the year, in the summer after heavy rain you can get a slightly tarry aroma but is helped by leaving the door slightly open. If it is smoky then it is to do with warming the chimney to increase draft. If you use any type of white spirit, turps, WD40, tung oil etc in the house, the log burner will drag this air in and make it smell heavily of kerosene, I have had that if I have really shitty chainsaws to clean in the garage even though the workshop is 25 feet away behind two closed doors. If it is this then open a window in the same room as the log burner and it will go away fast. That is if the room doesn't have an external vent if a 4.7KW type.

From our side, we kept saying it was the needle valve and it was like banging our heads hence some of the frustrated comments. I never expect my "Butt to be kissed", not sure I am in to that, a plain "thanks" always suffices if we help and unfortunately we often get new members asking for advice, we give it and then....nothing, no thanks, no info if we hit the target, nothing so we get a bit pissed off as it gives the forum nothing - see it from others perspective, us members know each other and don't know you! The sarcasm is free of charge and generally the help and advice offered far outweighs any sarcasm given - most of my customers like a bit of abuse in my experience Treat others.......been using that for 55 years and always do, the way I was brought up.................... My threads on here have helped hundreds maybe thousands so I guess I have gained some sort of gratitude, notoriety or something from that. Anyway - It would have been different if you had posted your response this morning and not going to argue, actions speak louder than words as Martin Stephenson said so lets see what you have to offer Arbtalk over the next few months!