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doobin

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Everything posted by doobin

  1. Get an alarm.
  2. A grapple is the same money as that hydraulic thumb. Vemac Engineering if you're wondering. Mine still going strong after three years of abuse. A compromise would be to have a special bucket made which is basically the top half of a grapple, and have the thumb made curved. Then crowd the 'bucket' and move the thumb at the same time. If you're putting a proper grapple onto a quick hitch, it only takes thirty seconds to change over anyway (make sure the geometry is right though, you might want a curved brace bar). Even with no quick hitch, it's still quicker to change over to the right tool for the job if you're doing any amount of grab work. Thumbs do the job but are not as dexterous as a grapple. You wouldn't keep a 12" bucket on for grading. Same principle, most efficient tool for the job. A couple of minutes to change the attachment is nothing in the scheme of things.
  3. Great to have tucked away on your jib when using a bucket, for moving the odd log or rock. Useless, however, compared to a proper grapple for the tasks you refer to.
  4. Are you sure it's the diff and not one of the two prop support bearings? They don't half whine when they're on the way out, and they don't have to be that bad (hardly noticeable in fact, jack it up and put your ear to them) to make a hell of a racket when the truck gets above twenty ish. Mine have failed after only 500 miles. They can bloody well stay like it.
  5. What are the benefits to your mind?
  6. I just use an Excel spreadsheet. I like it because it's tailored to my business, and I can customise it and add bits whenever I want. That will work in something like Docs2Go for mobile devices I think.
  7. That looks good. As stated it's 2 speed not three but the bottom gear is lower than most two speeds (400RPM, the 3 speed 1st gear is 300RPM) Add an extra 8NM of torque over the 3 speed and that looks like a good buy.
  8. £50000. Or do a search.... Ok then, £90-100 if you want to make actual profit.
  9. Gasless mig is hit and miss. OP doesn't want gas. Especially if you will be welding less than clean metal, an inverter arc welder is the way to go. These are good: http://www.inverterfusion.co.uk/
  10. Is the 201t really that bad???
  11. Hell yeah! Nice one, that sounds like a good buy. Club cab? What engine?
  12. doobin

    Ms181

    Seriously, put a 12" 1.1mm gauge bar on it. I did a head to head last month with that, and another 181 running 14" 1.3mm. Both freshly sharpened. Cutting 10" timber, the smaller, thinner bar was easily half as quick again than the 14". It makes a hell of a difference. Both saws were almost new. I agree they seem a bit more cheaply made, but I'd sooner use a 181 than an 009. Technology moves on. I bet they cost a lot less in equivalent terms than the 009 did when new also. It's a profitable saw. Fencing, odd jobs, small trees, garden jobs, chipper work. Ideal.
  13. So .325 is faster than 3/8? That's what I thought Openspaceman- thanks for the figure of 14%, that's interesting. If we could all flick a switch and give our saws 14% more power tomorrow I'm sure most folk would not hesitate. Also, the smaller the kerf the quicker it is to sharpen. I notice this particularly on a 12" 1.1mm guage bar.
  14. In absolute terms, surely at the same bar length and the same chain speed (change the sprocket to achieve this), the thinner kerf on .325 will win out over 3/8? For the record, on an 034 I run 3/8x8 for my 15" & 16" bars and .325x9 on a 13" bar. I was considering purchasing my next 15" bar in .325?
  15. doobin

    Ms181

    I'm sure he means for use as a chipper saw- to sever unions and the like. It's ideal for that, especially at the price and residual value. Nice and light too, for as Horatio will tell you, they need to conserve all the energy they can for the mad dash to the chipper and back! Plus being in that role it's the most likely to be nicked. I'm with Eagle- I love mine for the profit it makes.
  16. How come 3/8 is faster than .325? I would have assumed the opposite due to a slightly thinner kerf.
  17. Whereabouts on the estate was it? Bit close to home that.
  18. doobin

    Ms181

    Use a 12" 1.1mm gauge bar to maximise the power from the engine. Choke parts as mentioned will wear out. Flog it on eBay after a year's abuse for £140 and buy a new one for £210.
  19. It's a bit of a mongrel, that's for sure...
  20. This is the one you need if you want Makita and are going to do gateposts etc. Makita BHP451RFE Combi Drill 18v x 3Ah Li-ion Batteries 0088381076067 Metal gearbox and three speeds. If you let go of that boring into some heavy oak, the damn thing will knock you out! Serious torque. I've abused mine for getting on 6 years, and although I'm on the second set of batteries this would be the same with any Li-ion drill over that timescale. The drill body itself is going strong. Chucks are the weak point on many of these drills, Makita included. I've replaced mine with a keyed chuck.
  21. Makita 18v LXT. I wouldn't consider anything else. If you buy from PowerToolsUK you can get a 3 speed combi drill (get that, not a 2-speed, if you intend upon hanging gates) plus the impact driver and two 3AH batteries for about £340 with VAT and delivery. Screwfix are usually a rip off for most things, and in particular power tools.
  22. Ask local farmers, and keep asking around till you find somewhere.
  23. Hardly moving here- sold maybe 20-30 cube so far? I always have cord in stock, if you run out then you will probably loose the customer.
  24. Old school Isuzu gets my vote. You might be lucky and get a club cab with the 3.1 TD for sub 2k. They look old, however...

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