doobin

In absolute terms, surely at the same bar length and the same chain speed (change the sprocket to achieve this), the thinner kerf on .325 will win out over 3/8? For the record, on an 034 I run 3/8x8 for my 15" & 16" bars and .325x9 on a 13" bar. I was considering purchasing my next 15" bar in .325?

I'm sure he means for use as a chipper saw- to sever unions and the like. It's ideal for that, especially at the price and residual value. Nice and light too, for as Horatio will tell you, they need to conserve all the energy they can for the mad dash to the chipper and back! Plus being in that role it's the most likely to be nicked. I'm with Eagle- I love mine for the profit it makes.

How come 3/8 is faster than .325? I would have assumed the opposite due to a slightly thinner kerf.

Whereabouts on the estate was it? Bit close to home that.

Use a 12" 1.1mm gauge bar to maximise the power from the engine. Choke parts as mentioned will wear out. Flog it on eBay after a year's abuse for £140 and buy a new one for £210.

It's a bit of a mongrel, that's for sure...

This is the one you need if you want Makita and are going to do gateposts etc. Makita BHP451RFE Combi Drill 18v x 3Ah Li-ion Batteries 0088381076067 Metal gearbox and three speeds. If you let go of that boring into some heavy oak, the damn thing will knock you out! Serious torque. I've abused mine for getting on 6 years, and although I'm on the second set of batteries this would be the same with any Li-ion drill over that timescale. The drill body itself is going strong. Chucks are the weak point on many of these drills, Makita included. I've replaced mine with a keyed chuck.

Makita 18v LXT. I wouldn't consider anything else. If you buy from PowerToolsUK you can get a 3 speed combi drill (get that, not a 2-speed, if you intend upon hanging gates) plus the impact driver and two 3AH batteries for about £340 with VAT and delivery. Screwfix are usually a rip off for most things, and in particular power tools.

Ask local farmers, and keep asking around till you find somewhere.

Hardly moving here- sold maybe 20-30 cube so far? I always have cord in stock, if you run out then you will probably loose the customer.

Old school Isuzu gets my vote. You might be lucky and get a club cab with the 3.1 TD for sub 2k. They look old, however...

Fully agree. However, perhaps you're missing the point slightly. 'Average' should at least be able to do as 'Average' did a generation ago, and purchase a starter house- that has been referenced several time in the thread. As it stands, the average of this generation are being held to ransom. Put it this way- many 'average' of the previous generation (bus drivers, checkout workers etc) own property. Can you imagine a bus driver or checkout worker these days being able to pay the rent without tax credits, let alone get a mortgage??

Round here we call that pick-a-stix, but the principle is the same!

Sounds like a nightmare. I hope you're not paying anything for it. I'd be really tempted to buy a track barrow at the right money- it won't loose value. Then take your tools to the timber to create the items that you have orders for, and bring firewood out when you have an order. To be blunt, it doesn't sound like you'll make enough money from firewood sales to cover pulling the timber out. It would most likely be cheaper to buy it in on a lorry.

Just had an email back from the police asking why I suspected them to be stolen, as he had been selling them for 6 months and had good feedback! Here is my reply: " He may well have been selling stolen tools for six months. Ask yourself- why are his previous items private? Also, bad feedback is no indication whatsoever of an item being previously stolen! Of course he'll get positive feedback- buyers are chuffed to bits with their cheap new saw. Those are new tools- they still have the original toolkits with them and in many cases the box. The current list on there reads exactly like the typical stock list of a small dealer- right down to the gloves and boots. They are also on short 3 day listings, and all at once. He wants them gone quick, with no public trace (private feedback) once sold. There is no way he is a legitimate dealer either- Stihl have a strict no mail order policy on their equipment. As regards blunt chains showing a previous saw to be secondhand- that may well be the case. However, you would be sorely mistaken if you think only new items would be stolen in a dealer robbery- anything looking complete and ready for the customer to pick up will be taken as they are much easier to shift on and still command high prices. "

I thought chestnut stakes and posts were in hight demand down your way?

http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/general-chat/61971-kind-rock-7-ton-electric-log-splitter.html HTH

Fixed it for ya! Appreciate what you guys are saying re open forum and all that, if a mod wants to edit this thread or the title to say 'potentially stolen' then please do.

If they were dealers the photos wouldn't be taken inside a house...

Thinking about it, it looks like the entire stock of a small dealer. They even took the gloves and boots FFS! And a mantis tiller. Why are all his selling feedbacks listed as 'Private'? Because he doesn't want to leave a trace. From reading them you can tell they are chainsaw related. It's not rocket science....

Despite his assertions that they are 'low use' these items are all clearly brand new and no doubt the proceeds from a robbery on a dealership. I've reported it to the police but won't hold my breath... **charlee123** | eBay

He will be best remembered for his attempt to bring irony to an American audience...

No lead acid battery should be completely discharged. Approx 80% for a car battery and 50% for a deep cycle (lesiure) battery. Carpenter- that's one hell of a shed! More of a barn! I'd buy a couple of strips to test the water- at £7 it's not gonna break the bank. If they're not man enough, buy more. Or buy something else and use the strips over the workbench for extra light. Either way you can't loose. If I get round to it I'll take a photo of mine in the van.

If you itemised every single thing you might carry on a transit, the insurance would be in the tens of thousands. Plenty of people would be 'uninsured' on that day they help their mate move house for a few quid. The insurers look for every angle to bleed you. Has anyone experience of where they've wiggled out paying a claim for this sort of thing? Like the one day in 365 you run a years worth of collected scrap into the yard?

These are very efficient. Once 5m strip turns the inside of a Transit van into day, scale that size up to your shed size? Major benefit is no shadow as the lights are all around. 12v LED STRIP LIGHT 3528 SMD 300 LEDS 5M UK | eBay I used to use a compact fluorescent with a built in inverter that was very good but pricey. I think the LED strips have the edge, no shadow and for the same money as one of those bulbs you would buy 4 strips, that's a lot of light. If you're going to go down the inverter route, I would get a decent battery set up and a small genny to run that would provide more power when required (angle grinding etc) and top up your battery. Running an inverter solely for lighting is wasteful and inefficient when there is plenty of decent 12v lighting on the market. If it's solely light you want, a car battery would power them for a good while, then charge as you drove home. Two strips is 50w, at 12v that's 4.1 amps. A 60AH car battery could run those for 3 hours (using 12-13 AH) and it would be discharged to 80% capacity. That's a safe discharge level for a non lesiure lead acid battery. That would top up no worries as you drove home, or with a few minutes of engine idling. Install a digital volt meter into the system and it's foolproof. How long will you need to run the lights for?