Dan Curtis
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Everything posted by Dan Curtis
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I spoke to gustharts on monday of last week. They said they're having problems, it's not ce'd and won't be out until april at the earliest. Unless you're talking of a different sponsor?
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I'd imagine not,as it isn't ce'd. If it's not possible to market it in this country it probably isn't approved for use at all, modified or not
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Bigshot & srt for decent sized wellies
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Stihl 066 with 25" bar,a beauty to use
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I used to get little nicks all the time, usually to my left hand (the silky being in my right) Once I had a bad one. I hit myself in the left forearm and punctured an artery. Arterial bleeding up a tree is not good,even with full pressure of my other hand on the wound,i still had blood pumping out between my fingers. As I had to keep the pressure on, it looked like I needed rescuing, though just as my crew mate was coming up,i figured out a way to get down and hold the wound. Most of my silky wounds have been due to pushing the saw through the cut. Since the bad one, I've always replaced the blade as soon as I need to start forcing it through to get a fast cut, usually now every three to four months. Fair enough, it costs a bit more than my former bi annual changes, but I haven't cut myself since
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I would be if you get can something organised
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Ditto plus munter hitch
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I could also help with climbs if you need a hand
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And I've got a good run for it too
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Drums drums drums
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Done. I'd be interested to see the results if at all possible
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I've had a quick look on google but can't find the part name. I reckon if you contact your local dealer they can probably tell you what it is if you say hi/low changeover air valve
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On ours it's on the nearside rear top corner of the gearbox. I think it's held in by four 14mm bolts and has a 3 or 4mm plastic air line into it. Ours has a push fit joint in that air line. I think I had to take something else off to get to it, but I can't remember what
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we had the same thing in our u2100. The problem was the air valve on the back/top of the gearbox. Ithad seized, so you couldn't change between the high and low boxes (1-4 & 5-8) cheap part and easy enough to fit......if you can get in between the chassis/pto shaft/rear drive shaft! I nearly couldn't get out again!
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You can body thrust but you'd have to have the strength of a bear to do 25 feet
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I climb here all the time, pm me if you're free and fancy a climb anytime. Otherwise, depending on the success of this get together I'll try to get another organised.
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Beaten to it! Mines the same as Ian's
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Have to be tomorrow now but yeah I can. It's similar to the pic Nigel put up. Only difference I'd make is to clip the grab to a krab and straight to side d. Then larks foot the cut away on the other end of the flipline, clip the other krab to that and into the other d
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Saturday 4th february at loddon. I'll arrange a good meeting point nearer the time, it's a bit hard to find the exact place. Probably meet around 9.30 am and I'll be about all day after that, others may come and go at different times
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Ian, when going out on a limb, do you find you have to give yourself slack with the rads? It looks as though the weight of your tail might mean you're working against your line a bit. I know this is ok with the lj on ddrt, just wondering the difference in srt.
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I use it the opposite end and with a hitch. Larks foot the big eye onto the spliced eye of your strop then clip a krab into the small eye. I find putting it in with your grab/hitch moves it further away which can be annoying on small poles
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Just with the bottom attachment? I haven't tried the lockjack on it's own on a single rope (nor do I intend to) but I have had a play with it on the ground srt. It seemed to pull hard to one side,as the attachment points are offset to the rope.knowing it would grab in the event of a wrench failure is good to know though! Cheers
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Nice one,i should have at least three from work plus other locals
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Not with me and my gear is at work,i can get some tomorrow
