RobRainford
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Everything posted by RobRainford
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i would suggest cs32 and ATV course if your budget allows, the techniques used in CS32 i find are more useful. i have cs34, individual windblown, if you are mainly doing coppicing, you may find youll never need to deal with many windblown trees.
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if you want your gloves to last more than 3 drops then use some yale rope, i find th marlows are just way too rough after thy start to get fluffy, i use a 13mm yale portland braid, very nice rope to use and doesnt want to take your gloves off!
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I've never had a problem, on weekend jobs I knock on the immediate neighbours and let them know we will be making a bit of noise. They are usually fine with it and happy to see trees go!
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eBay for about £25 all in. Its slightly more than what it would be at my local dealer. But the same part. Spud: they said they do work with 200t's, I'm tempted to send mine in for a new carb and a good doing over to make it scream. That or my 260, can't decide! Had a go with it earlier, cutting full 20" in 18 month seasoned beech. And it was awesome. Barely even tried, and I was pushing hard too
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No, I use the 20" because then I get more use, but I have got a 36 for it and a 25 on the way.
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I wouldn't say I'm revving it's knackers off there. It's 6 months old and is run in well. i rev it less hard after a cold start, then ease the power on and off. I barely even hit full throttle, revving it's knackers off isn't good for any engine. Most people know that! What does revving it like that have to do with it being sat on the yard?
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Yeah lots of them, where the saw was sat it's a low spot and is a lot finer that other areas of the yard
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It's on gravel, there is a patch of concrete next to it but I chose the softer ground. I'll have a race with you on Wednesday! I'll have a similar bar too so we shall see who is th victor
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The pickup is faster when revving the saw, the revs are only what it is full load out of wood, I would think it's going to be able to hold higher revs in the wood, with a shorter rpm range for power, it should be quicker, if thats right. He set it slightly richer as stinks run weak and did some other stuff with the carb, new spark plug too. I can't remember all the details, but he knew what he was talking about and said he's never had a saw go wrong when he's messed with it! He wanted to alter the jets and the stops in the carb, which I may let him do to allow better adjustment, but I'll see after it's had some wood time!
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No, guy at the shop said with the less restrictive exhaust it was running lower, but higher with the stock exhaust after he had a go. Spud: i hope it does! I'll have a go tomorrow and see what it's like.
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Installed this today and got it tuned. Tops out at around 12,800rpm, compared to the standard exhaust topping at 13,200 It seems like there's a lot more power available. Can't wait to cut some wood with it! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2H4tBEMVhwM]YouTube - STIHL MS660 Dual Port Exhaust[/ame]
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A nail driven firmly through the power button is a good fix for most problems. I would look on the keyboard, usually a FN button then somewhere else you press. Are you using a mouse with the laptop? There are settings to deactivate the touchpad when you plug in a mouse -
If I were making a list on how to kill yourself THAT would be at the top! What a tool!
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For anyone thinking of making a chip box
RobRainford replied to Lorry thompson's topic in Arb-Trucks
You could go to b&q and pay £150 and get the materials to make it look like mine! It's high enough to nearly stand in. Makes a great rain shelter!
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I've got a feeling a trip to the local saw boffins would probably save time and money if it went belly up! All this info is good for learning. My ear is not set so I would probably make a mistake!
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The marks spread from passes to distinctions. I think it will be a high pass overall. Im happy I got through it anyway. The bridging modules are statistics and data handling. They were covered in the BSc course years one and two which overlapped a lot with the fd. I'm doing them both combined in 5 weeks! Ahh! Intense! I'll be heading for the BSc in arboriculture. In the long term im aiming to be in consultancy or running a successful firm. With maybe tree officer or teaching to fall back on as extra options. It's another year of even harder work. Still got no idea what to do my dissertation on!
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As soon as I look at that picture my back aches from thinking of carrying all that firewood!
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Found out today, got my results through from UCLAN and I have been awarded a foundation degree in arboriculture, in the process of bridging modules for the BSc so hopefully this time next year there will be another thread like this! Well pleased with myself. 2 years of work!
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Thanks Geoff. I'll check it with the spark plug anyway. I'd rather have it running slightly rich so it gets more liquid in there!
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I wouldn't bother with an osteo. My mum had a bad back for best part of a year and after numerous expensive osteopath visits, she went and got Bowen treatment, and was back to normal within 2 weeks! Look that up if you can!
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Cheers. I've dropped on with my 260, runs brilliant and starts reliably. Just a little fiddle and it's been great for ages now. Ive bought a dual port muffler for the 660 so I'll have to richen it up a bit I think, there's a place nearby I could nip to if I'm unsure at all.
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Those are old school ties. From about 5 years and 7 years ago now! I've got a pink one somewhere. I do like the idea of a homer tie though!
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Oh yeah It's about £20 I think.
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This thread is mainly for future reference, the screws on the carbs on stihl saws. Am I right that the h is for top end revs and the l is for rich/leanness? If I open up an exhaust on a saw and it needs richening, I turn the L screw up right? I'm a bit foggy with the details. Cheers!
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My 660 is 2010 and came with the standard filter. Is it 2011 models that get special treatment then?
