RobRainford

I keep 2 rings on mine. Cracked one when I was doing my felling course by hitting it at the wrong angle while encouraging a pop to go against its lean. Tree went over and wedge fell in two! Got another set and have 2 rings on. Wrap them in insulation tape and it stops them twisting when you hit them. Big difference IMO.

Thinking of hosting another climbing day at my place, same weekend as last year, the 13th of November this time, the sunday. With last year being a relative success, some good trees to play in and good weather. I thought i might host another. Whos in? Location, St helens.

I enjoy my sequoia, its nice and small and fits me well because im only 5'7'' with a 32" waist so its well suited, i have thought of going over to a tree motion as i tried one and found the size of the back pad nice and supporting because i do get some back trouble with long periods of climbing. My next harness will be a treemotion i think, thats still a while off yet though.

You don't need to be mad to come here. But it sure does help Welcome Dave!

The little fungi are mycorrhizal. The bleeding was probably caused by parasitic armillaria species. Which is where the cavity came from. Theres a crack in that tree aswell. It's healed but to me it looks like a shear bomb.

the greenmech is my only chipper and i have put a LOT of material through it in my 7 months of ownership and it has never skipped a beat. Well worth the money, as is the electric start!

that mog is cool, must be pretty powerful to drive up vertical hills

or someone undercuts you and fells it for the wood! There are a couple of reasons i can justify a reduction for, however it is totally dependent on the situation the tree is in Open grown trees need no reduction or work, the same goes for trees in the middle of a woodland, the only work that should be carried out on trees in woodlands is only necessary work i.e. tidying up failed limbs/trees or reducing the weight of hazard beams. These should onl be done if necessary, as a woodland is an eco system and failures of trees should be seen as recycling and not the trees getting old and knackered and dangerous. A tree is only dangerous if there is a target! A reduction to a tree in a heavily used public area is perfectly justifiable imo. If the tree is showing some signs of stress or weak unions then reduction of these heavy parts or even reducing the leaf area of the tree to reduce transpiration rates and decrease water loss would be beneficial, especially to trees in town centres! reducing wind loading is a good reason, nobody wants their prized tree falling to bits in the wind and bashing their stuff, so reducing that can be justified. Trees dont really want to be reduced, they optimise against the stresses they are experiencing and grow tension and compression wood where necessary to withstand these pressures, however a hazard beam can be caused by a sudden change in wind direction and not just heavy loading. I can understand your tutors view on no reduction is necessary though! theres an exam question and answer in this thread somewhere

nice job Mark, chestnut is only good for cutting with a sharp saw as it flies through and makes you feel good cutting super quick! Is that your bike behind the chair?

I would suggest the RFS certificate, however, i live just under 40 miles from myerscough, and have been doing the full time Fdsc and now onto the third year of BSc, i had no relevant knowledge before this. I have seen guys get some good results from part time, but you have to be committed, even the full time is still 3 days a week!

I tried on the quest gtx and protector pros before I went for the airstreams. I didn't like the hard insole of the steins and the protector pros felt too long on my leg. I think there was less than £20 difference in cost between the airstreams and the protector pros. If I had to choose I would pick the protector pros.

Look at the Meindl airstream too. I find them a brilliant boot and are shorter than he protector pro so should be easier for long days tractor driving. I've used the Meindls a good amount in a tractor and found them no different to any other boots.

Next time I'll leave it in a log length and you can try and carry it. It's not lightweight stuff! I suppose I'll have a go at burning. It smells a bit like carrots sat on the trailer.

I met a transvestite from Greater Manchester yesterday. He had a Wigan address.

Airspade, bartletts did tests on both and airspade came out on top. If you airspade up to the dripline then add mulch and invigorate the mulch with the airspade then that gives brilliant results

Cheers simon, ive sent an email to them. im surprised theres been so little interest tbh!

ive seen that birch! i should go back to ness, been 2 years since i was last there!

All sat here in rings. Range of sizes 6" up to 12" and 10" thick to 22" thick. No sap running out. All pretty dry timber. Some nice early spalting in the base too by the looks of it Can deliver if reasonable distance

I would LOVE this position. Shame it's so far away! Plus ive got commitments up here

We have a 10ft one for sale. Fixed angle and will fit on tractor loader euro fittings. Rubber blade along the bottom. Bought it last year but never used it. Bit of rust but in good order. Was on eBay last week.

I'm taking one out today. It died a couple of months ago so is already drying. It's about 20" at the base and is about 25-30ft to the first branches. In St helens. Any offers?

I have a portek log master. It's great. I put my 660 with 20" bar on and set it right out. If you can lift it on it will cut it! I can't fault it, it saves time and also saves your back and saw chains!

do they come in type C? i think i may go for a set if so!

I saw a fistulina occupying a chainsaw cut too, looks like a fisty anyway, it was on a carved log! On second looking, it could very well be where one used to live but someone poached it!

What's this? Is it another pholiota? It's on a beech log. Its immature so I was unsure.