Rob D

Yep the tough part is when someone is determined to blame the gear ie. bar or chain - it can never ever be them. My opinion is - there is a chance it's the gear or there's a chance it's you. It's so counterproductive to buy a new bar and chain and then run that with a worn sprocket - such a waste of $$

It's the oregon maintenance manual http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

And I fully admit when I was full time on the tools I was one of the worst offenders!! Esp hedge reduction and having the chain de rail... I'd just get it back on there and run it until it cut again. I think fair enough - but when you do come to replace stuff replace it together.

It keeps cropping up - folks tend to buy a new chain when it stops cutting or it is worn out, a new bar when the same happens or fancy a change - and a new drive rim/sprocket rarely. If you buy a new bar and are in doubt - change the drive rim + don't use old chains on a new bar - even if 'only got it a few days ago' or 'the saw is new'. A used rim wears the chain which wears the bar. Together they all wear together - buy a new bar and run an old rim/sprocket and old chain likely you will wear the bar inside the rails and on the rail surface, much faster. If you have to - keep an old chain for when the bar is 6 months or so + then it's not so important. But with the high spec Sugi/Tsumura/Cannon bars the tolerances are tight - a slightly burred chain [on the drive links] will quickly gouge out your new bar and cause overheating to boot. It's a negative saving. Sometimes a chain will de rail - and often this really burrs up the drive links - putting this on and using an stump to force the chain to start turning then revving the saw to get it running is going to knacker that bar and drive sprocket rapidly. And then put a new bar on - you will wear that bar out x5 as quickly! You're better off running things longer and then changing everything together than replacing things one at a time.

It's basically the Panther Intersect Mill - and that's it - not other bits required [although you would want another Panther Intersect body to do what I've done above] Panther Intersect Mills - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

You should be making enough $$ not to make it too big a decision as to what fuel you use. If in doubt turn to firewood - milling is tough demanding expensive work - only mill the stuff that gives you real pleasure or cash. My opinion only.

Yep I think you could cut hexagonal pretty easily - but I suppose it may be easier to make something that holds a post at a 45 degree angle and then you rotate the post in this 'holder'.

It seems to change the thinner the chain - the 1/4 .043 picco chain gives a pretty smooth cut even though it is at 25/30 degrees [I forget which] so the thinner the chain the less difference it makes. Like everything more than one way to go - the Oregon 91vxl is not a ripping chain but it seems to work amazingly well when performing vertical cuts.

Am starting to experiment using the Panther Intersect more as wood working tools rather than planking - and it works really well especially for re sawing. It should be pretty easy to set things so you can slide the height up and down for the vertical side. You can see if you pinned the Panther large end brackets differently you could adjust the angle of cut.

It doesn't but when you buy reels of chain they come with plenty of joining rivets and tie straps.

THE COUNTDOWN HAS STARTED on Our Last Offer For The Foreseeable Future This will likely be the last offer we do for some time as we're concentrating on providing an all round good service, great product line and year round competitive pricing structure going forward. So, if you want something with a discount - best act now! 24% off everything online including sale items ...but hurry... DISCOUNT DECREASES BY 1% EVERY HOUR Shop Now Offer starts 5pm 17th September 2019 and ends 5pm 18th September 2019. Offer applies to internet purchases only - YOU must place the order ONLINE yourself to earn the discount. Copyright © 2019 Always Greener Ltd, All rights reserved. You joined this list as you are a customer of Chainsawbars or Sugihara Bars. Our mailing address is: Always Greener Ltd Brookside Farm Agars Lane, Silver Street Hordle, Hampshire SO41 0FL United Kingdom Add us to your address book Want to change how you receive these emails? You can update your preferences or unsubscribe from this list.

We now have these saws in stock and in a range of options. They look super sexy and plenty of options to go on them. ECHO CS-2511 WES Archives - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

Got em all now in stock here: ECHO CS-2511 WES Archives - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

Haha yep - but imagine the ridicule he has endured! Also imagine that 50% of what he says is total nonsense - but 50% of what he says may well be true..... that's 50% more than most politicians

Fair point - I'm going to nail my colours to 'I don't know how much of global warming is to do with us human beings and how much to do with a natural cycle of the planet' - best I can do! There are so many conflicting arguments the whole topic is a mess! The way I see it if climate change is real and down to us I am part of the problem, pollution is real and is definitely down to us - I am part of that problem as well and will continue to be so... I fly to go on holiday, I drive a diesel car, I use more resources than most on the planet and will likely continue to do so for the short term.

Yep! I find it's hard to have an opinion on anything these days - on the plus side it makes life easier and me far less judgemental.

He is way out there and worth a completely different take on things - not saying he is right, not saying he is wrong, just saying it's another perspective to view things from.

Hi Ben - I'm really not a guru of much of anything! Oregon chains are the benchmark chain ie. good value good quality - I'd go for either the chisel or more likely the micro chisel [less prone to dulling and sharpen easier]. Best thing ref saws is keep going back to how to improving general maintenance and sharpening. This can always be improved and will always pay off. Get your order in fairly sharpish for the discount as these bars are here very very soon! 21BPX 21BPX Oregon Micro Chisel .325 .058 - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK [button size="medium" style="alert" bg_color="#e40514" border="#e40514"] Please make sure you order the correct...

Probably if you are new to milling go with .404 chain Milling is great when done right - and you have loads more margin of error with .404 chain IMO

Yep the longer lo pro bars should be in around the 8th September - has been a long wait on this order. Apologies to those waiting. Main tip is chain sharpening. It's the biggest issue we have. For some reason it seems that everyone wants to complicate why their mill is not cutting straight. It's the rails/it's the mill/it's the bar... Each time to date when we get the stuff back - it's the chain is dull - every single time [no doubt I'll eat these words!]. A very slight undulation in your first cut rails, a perception that the bar has a slight bend... all will not stop that bar and chain from cutting. The only thing that will stop that mill from cutting is the chain. We have a case right now were a customer is so sure that the bar is too thick for the chain and that's why it is not cutting. I'm not saying it's impossible - but it is highly unlikely. If the bar does not wish to enter the wood - the chain is dull. If it's a new chain then somewhere along the line it has gotten dulled! If the bar is very well used that can cause issues - but 99 out of 100 [or even 999 out of 1000] it is always the chain. The very hardest part is when a customer tells us they just sharpened the chain and that they have used a saw for 20 years - is there a way to tell someone gently that they have not been sharpening correctly all this time? If there is I'd love to hear it! i tend to go down the line of 'it's hard to get the ripping chain spot on'. Sharpening a saw to cross cut and get it to move through the wood is easy - you can get it 30% right and with enough force and persistence [and burning bar oil and blued rails] and you can get it to cut wood - with milling the margin is much much higher ie. it needs to be at least 70% right. So to mill right your chain needs to be right - I can do a hand or free hand sharpen - but only badly. Every 3 or 4 sharpens I have to use a guide to get all the angles and teeth spot on. It's nothing to be ashamed about but seems people are. Anyways hope that helps

Yep it's really more for long bars and milling where you often move them from place to place and have a selection of bars - this keeps everything together and no need to have a tangle of chain to figure out. I have about x10 all hanging up but when moving them out for a job the chain comes off and always gets tangled. This makes it a tidy job and you can quickly fit the bar and chain to a saw and take the previous one off and stow it.

Nothing at all - but this is more for doing that and transporting the bar and chain. Or if you don't want to hang them up you can store horizontally [the option to hang is just that - one option]. If you always hang your bars and put them straight onto a saw then you don't need one

If the chain adjuster is maxed out that is the chain has stretched and not an indication the bar has worn out necessarily unless I have read the post wrong.

Found here https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/pck-panther-chain-keeper/

Brand new product - for shorter bars and chains its not so relevant but for longer bars and chains this works really well. Keeps it all together hanging or in transit. Special launch offer...