Rob D

I don't think this was ever used long enough to flip it ie. damage done within 1 hour of using it..

Yep well it's personal choice how you run your gear but best practice is to change the drive rim and sprocket regularly as it leads to premature damage. Stihl and Oregon say you should, I say you should as I've seen the damage caused by not doing it - but it's a forum and things are up for debate... I see 2 to 3 bar failures a week and there is a common theme in what I believe has caused the damage in most cases.

Sorry if this is a daft question - but why would you be running plenty of very worn sprockets over the years? And if a sprocket is very worn would you not replace it [if you knew it was very worn]?

It's not this one - I've tried a few of these and they are not as well made or as effective plus if you look at where the drive sprocket is you need to change this and match it to the saw ie. you need a range of these. Having the side cover off I'm not sure the CE marking is still valid.. the vee belt drive is a good idea though and that worked well but again it means you have to have a different changeover drive sprocket for each saw.

Hi Les - I think we now have this sorted over whatsapp. Rob

You would seriously not believe how many people are wrecking their gear by not changing the rim and/or using chains that have damage on drive links on a new bar... it's almost daily now. I am going to do some stickers saying that warranty on any bar is invalidated unless drive sprocket is in good condition.

Nope it's messy soaking in oil - WD40 squirted down the bar groove works really well.

Nope it surely is not lack of oil or a blunt chain [saw oiling fine and chain new on there, damage occurred pretty much after a few cuts] - and this illustrates my point really ie. that's what folks would think would cause this... but it ain't! And when folks are convinced of what the cause is it's then almost impossible to convince them otherwise.

Very very thin so down the grain or across the grain it cuts well - and less sawdust as well. Downside is the fragility...

We now have 20" 1/4 .043 bars for both Stihl and Husky saws - a smaller saw ie. 35cc will work with these bars but please be aware: Panther mini bars are more delicate - all the 1/4 .043 bars are - they don't last as long as a thicker larger bar. The pay off is a smoother nicer cut - less longevity - how much less longevity is more down to you than the bar. If you want to go down this route buy a few chains - these small chains tend to be best sharpened once or thrice then replaced. Below vid is the Stihl bar on an Echo 390ESX [this works with 102 drive links not 100] Saws this bar will fit? See below BUT this is a custom type fit for experienced and knowledgeable folk - just because it fits doesn't mean you should do it - most people love the 1/4 .043 set up but some really don't so it's not a case of 'this is the best so get it' - it is an option [which we really got for the Panther Cub to give the thinnest milling kerf of any chainsaw mill]. STIHL 009, 010, 011, 012, 017, MS170, MS171, 018, MS180, MS181, 019, MS190, MS191, MS192, MS193, 020, MS200, MS201, 021, 022, MS210, MS211 019T, MS190T, MS191T, MS192T, MS193T, 020T, MS200T, MS201T HT70, HT75, HT100, HT101, HT130, HT131 E140, E160, E180, MSE140, MSE160, MSE180, MSE200 Cannon bar code (starts) S5 GB bar code (starts) SW12 Oregon bar code (ends) A074 Stihl bar code (starts) 3005 Sugihara bar code (starts) SL2 Panther mini bars for Stihl - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

We have around x18 of these - they work well but set up is 'fiddly'. We are much closer now to having all the components [Cannon de barker bars, cutterless chain] but currently we only have Cannon de barker bars for mid size Stihls [MS261, MS391] and mid size Husky [D009 mount though so very limiting to older 60-65cc Husky saws]. You can still mount to a larger saw if you choose but recommended max size is 65cc. In 2 months we will have these rebranded as Panther log de barkers and price will go up as they will be more an official pack - but if you want a better price now here they are. Would really appreciate it if interested that you go through the instructions first to see what's what - if you have a saw you want to fit this to I can prob set up a kit for you. Debarker - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK NOTE: We will be getting Panther branded de barker tools in approx 6 weeks. They are the same tool as these but in black [they will retail at £140-00+vat whereas these - the same tool are £120-00+vat. Chain is not included in the price. We have used these for a while and they work well - ensure you adjust the clearance on blades correctly as they can be set overly aggressive from the factory. Please read all the info first BEFORE you buy as otherwise you will not know what you are getting into! Do not buy now work it out later - take the time to read the below info first. Remember it mounts to the bar and will run .325 or 3/8 lo pro chain only. We have .325 .050 in cutterless chain only with no plans to get other sizes. This will mount on most saws - ideally between 30cc to 50cc but can be up to 65cc. Note on something like a 560XP you will quickly wear the splines out on the tool due to the excess power so be aware. All PPE associated with chainsaw use you will need to wear using this tool We will be getting Cannon debarker bars in for smaller saws in the future - but they will not be here until after 10th Nov 2020 We have de barker bars for mid range Stihl and larger Husky saws which are in this de barker area [or will be added shortly] If you are using .325 then go for the cutter less chain You will need to drill your chainsaw bar to fit this tool Chain size - this is not straight forward due to varying bar sizes but a rule of thumb will be around x6 drive links longer than your existing chain. But you may have to experiment with chain size to get this right https://pdfhost.io/v/hofK3CHoH_RR2445_Log_Debarker_Instructionspdf.pdf

Go on then last one is it the 28" version? Not upsetting me at all so don't worry on that score https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324260850689

Haha! Where's Mark Bolam when you need him - he would have a field day on this.. prob on Facebook, or Instagram, or Tick Tock [I don't even know what Tick Tock is!]

Thanks. I am the same as everyone else really - get the best price on the best product and as they say no harm in trying. But there is no way of giving the best service for the best price. The two cannot co exist [IMHO]

Thanks Will we do our best - we try our best and we are not going to go down this route of pile it high, sell it cheap and sod the customer. We value our customer and we value ourselves and we will always aim to make a profit on what we sell in order to keep it that way. I will always use myself whatever we sell and will always try and give service to match - but there is only one of me and it won't happen each and every time... but hopefully it happens most of the time.

The answer is a firm and heart felt no - in fact I am taking these listings off ebay.

Is it just me but a lot of manufacturers seem to promote themselves with homo erotic type pictures? I'm not homosexual myself [chance would be a fine thing it seems a hell of a lot simpler] but I'd like to hear other opinions? The pics above seem to be.. well.. let's keep it simple.. homo erotic. [my opinion only] so I'm not sure why Stihl would use pics when most of the men in this industry will not be homo sexual? Is this a case of emperors new clothes ie. no one wants to state the obvious or is this down to my repressed desires that have been held in check all these 47 years....

I can't comment on the saws but I think they are good - they are also everything that is wrong in the world ie. cheap price reliable machine but zero knowledge. I can advise you buying them practically but not spiritually

As a side note - we will pretty much be off ebay soon I hope - I can't cope with ebay anymore. And I mean that genuinely it has a negative impact on my life even though we used to make £ off ebay it's not worth the cost. We want to provide as close as we can to proper service - I interpret that as - we care about people, we care about our customers, we care about our suppliers and the products they work hard to produce. We try to deliver quickly and we try to put our mistakes right [and your mistakes right] quickly. But hell everything is so about 'quickly' now that it has [to be frank] made my life a misery.

Apologies late reply - ok so: 1) The 62cc saws the Parker 62cc seems good and it seems a great price for what you get. BUT these 62cc saws seem to be re badged and re marketed under all sorts of brands [NB we would do this ourselves but other companies seem to work on a more Amazon type basis - nowt wrong with that - we just don't work like that]. 2) If you can ID the bar mount usually always K095 [Group3 Husky mount] hence easy to fit different bars and chains 3) All the knock of Alaskan mills are ok - but let's talk size - folks often ask what size should I go for and reply is 'what size do you need?' and these sort of replies are Zen type and annoying but it's true! If you are buying a larger saw later - get a larger mill. If you are sticking to this size - stick to this size mill. If unsure - then go for the larger mill! 4) Prices are so cheap here - don't quibble £20 - if in any doubt spend more to go longer. 5) Milling FAQs are boring - but why do what I did and spend hours upon hours the hard way when 30 minutes reading does it from the comfort of your armchair FAQS - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Feel free to contact us if you have any questions or require further information on any our products. Videos of all... 6) Only you know what you need - the trick is to educate yourself so that you can then tell who you are going to buy from I need x, y and z. I get so many people who call and ask 'I'd like your advice...' and then I give them my advice and they don't agree with it!

WD40 sprayer and proud! Lube it up before you use it to avoid unnecessary friction

Ohhh another day another guide bar completely wrecked 'been using a saw 20 years mate never seen this before' - I can't swear on here but let's say a knackered rim, worn chain and guess what - look at the result! What do you say to someone - [maybe some sensible suggestions on here] ie. how do you tell someone they have not known how to maintain their gear for 20 years?? I was like this - but how do I tell someone else without bruising a 20 year ego?

It's pretty much always the chain in every case - I would file the teeth a smidge flatter aiming for 5 degrees, go up a size file or grinding stone size as you want a shallower gullet/side plate angle to the tooth so it is not cutting so aggressively. Also always take the rakers down retro respectively - should sort it.

Just bought one - had an option to checkout with Amazon which worked well... ie you stayed on their website but it pulled in details and card info from Amazon..

watch from 2.20 I like the way after he lets go it sort of becomes an auto lowering jack!