Rob D

This is a good one!

Good points Big J - however we will never be sure if people were having lots of parties and not social distancing as people generally seem to gather information from what they see on the news. If the BBC shows a couple of parties during the lockdown with the title 'people in London flouted the rules and gathered despite the lock down' then we tend to see that as fact. Then everyone goes round repeating this to each other 'did you see they weren't obeying the rules in London at the weekend'. Where I live on the whole everyone is going with the guidelines and the rules. I don't watch the official news anymore as I know how influencing it is even if you come from a stance of not believing it. But when I speak to people and ask their opinions they generally repeat what was on the news the night before.

Yep I used that in the end! Why are google not listing protest info I wonder... there is every bit of info on hand washing/mask wearing/social distancing it goes on... nothing online about what to do if you disagree with the lock down.

Well either way I think the whole muzzle wearing thing is a complete load of tosh anyway. Have you seen the number of the things that are now blowing around the streets? My hairdresser said she had to move to a visor as constant mask wearing brought out bad dermatitis. I wear one only out of respect to others - but am completely against it. Sweden - even by the stats published [which are all we have to go by] - never had a lock down. You can cite all the variables ie. they are more sensible, more healthy, less live in cities etc etc. But if Covid is as contagious as they say and is as much a risk as they say why don't these figures reflect that? The only answer I can come to is - it is NOT as contagious as they say, it is NOT as much of a risk as they say and lock downs make bugger all difference!

I wonder if the protesters that cause the issues are given a back hander to do so? Maybe they aren't protesters in the first place Personally I am tired of the nonsense - there are no news stories on people who caught Corona, were ill for a week then back to work with no issues. No encouragement for people to look after themselves and others around them, it's all about fight the disease, magical vaccines that will solve everything. No isolating the vulnerable and allowing the rest of us freedown and work to keep sane and the economy failing. Search 'join anti COVID lockdown' online and find a group - because I can't... does that not strike you as odd? It's hard to protest against it all... I joined this today as in the word's of a well known song 'if we tolerate this then your children will be next'. I am going to become more proactive in all this. Liberty WWW.LIBERTYHUMANRIGHTS.ORG.UK Liberty challenges injustice, defends freedom and campaigns to make sure everyone in the UK is treated fairly. Join us...

You don't need sprockets this small - the Stihl and Panther mini bars running 1/4 .043 have very little kick back. They are using carving bars for supply reasons I suspect and prob in the end they will issue with a sprocket nose bar that runs 1/4 .043.

If you can find someone who is an experienced saw user and work with them for a couple of days. Learning how to use a chainsaw over the internet is prob possible but not the best route IMO.

If you want to watch a vid without all the usual nonsense that surrounds a promo vid then made one here.

And we have them all here - bear in mind we can't export the batteries so if you are further afield then by the bar body, charger, bar and chains and source the battery in your own country. Panther mini bars with a sprocket nose are a better option than the 1/4 .043 carving bar Echo provide [bear in mind this is our brand so naturally highly biased!] ECHO DCS-2500T - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

Yep they loves long bars in the US!

This is a similar one to this tread here which I started cause getting asked the question a lot!

Get this question a lot and there is no answer to it! Actually there is an answer 'I don't know because I don't know you!' It's not about the saw it's more about you the person using the saw. Personally I think it is a question you should be able to answer yourself and if you can't - stick to what the manufacture's guidelines say. Below from milling faqs. What is the max size bar I can put on my bar? What will my chainsaw bar pull? It is NOT about your chainsaw – it is about you. If you have a super experienced and knowledgeable chainsaw user [Test – you don’t know your chain size, the different chains types, the difference between a rim or spur sprocket you are a very long way from being one] then he/she can mount a much longer bar on their saw and use it with success. Same chainsaw but different user who has used a saw for a few years but doesn’t really know all that much and maintenance is poor – they have the same saw but if they try and go longer they come unstuck and potentially damage the chainsaw. You can go lo pro – and find info about that below – this def helps putting a longer bar on. But it really comes down to you not the chainsaw. Can I put a massive long bar on my saw – I can’t afford a new large saw.. I’ll cut slowly.. Similar to above. This is not a ‘can the saw pull the bar question’. If you are asking this question you don’t know enough about your saw in general! An experienced user will already know the answer to this question. Someone who ‘thinks’ they are experienced will likely break something by putting an over size bar on their saw. So the question cannot be answered easily – if you are asking this question the answer is likely ‘no don’t do it’ as the experienced users will already know what they can do with their saw and so never ask the question in the first place!

HS64-50WR 64"[162cm] GB Extra Long 5 Foot Bar 3/8 Lo Pro .050 196 drive links WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK HSS64-63WR 64"[162cm] GB Slotted Extra Long 5 Foot Bar 3/8 Lo Pro .050 204 drive links A couple of times customers have said they find the 196 drive link chain does not fit - really you need to have breaking and mending kit to run these as the chain does stretch over time regardless if you start with 196 or 197 drive links.

We do have 64" lo pro bars that will fit all the 90cc saws both Stihl and Husky [using either a GB1214 or GB914 adapter] . BUT don't tend to advertise them much because it's not a case of 'if it fits so you can run it. It's variables and probabilities and words we're not allowed to use anymore 'common sense' and 'personal responsibility' If you have 8 big 4ft trees to mill and want 2" slabs = you will likely break your saw, or you or both! If you have x2 4ft trees to mill into 4" or 8" planks then that is probably doable. But that's not to say a good operator would not manage the x8 trees and be fine or the bad operator break something doing the x2 trees! The better you are at maintenance, chain sharpening, if you have an aux oiler, if you look after your saw etc etc the more you could use this on a 660 and be fine but with limited sensible use. It has an MS880 large Stihl mount but again don't really advertise it much as I like to know who is buying it. Otherwise we get a call a few months later with 'mate my piston has scored and my local dealer who has been servicing saws for 40 years says no way should I have been sold this long a bar for my MS660' or 'you shouldn't be selling a bar that can fit on an 880 with lo pro chain'.

661 really the option to use is the 3/8 lo pro chain rather than the Panther 1/4 .043 Not sure how you would run 1/4 .043 on anything over 60cc as there are no drive sprockets/drive rims...

We have 20" as max at the moment - it's like the lo pro set ups - if you are snapping chains and having issues using larger chains lo pro and panther type set ups are not for you. But at the moment 20" is longest we may see how things go and do longer later.

Panther Cub, Echo 390 ESX and 20" Panther Mini Bar Set up is as title - this is for smaller saws and smaller needs - it worked really well and to my knowledge this is the thinnest cutting in terms of kerf chainsaw mill in the world. Video gives a full over view of milling a small log all the way from set up to finish. Panther Cub stuff can be found here Panther Cub - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

Have re worked this page - included more links and info [where the links now work!]. Not so much for those who have found their rhythm chainsaw milling and it's not to say there is a right way or a wrong way but hopefully if you are new to milling or want to learn more this page may help. Chainsaw milling is a whole new discipline [like chainsaw carving] and it is months of work and study to start getting your eye in [years even].. it's hard to answer questions such as 'I want to cut myself a few boards where do I start?' Well the answer is start here and work your way through this - it's all relevant and unfortunately if you don't know basics such as what size chain you are using or what size files go with that chain it will take some time. There are no short cuts and believe me I spend most of my life learning this the hard way. Anyways main reason for this thread is - what am I missing in this page? What questions do you have about milling that are not answered and need answering? FAQS - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Feel free to contact us if you have any questions or require further information on any our products. Videos of all...

Haha yep - I didn't know that was the MS180!

You can get the ones with a V belt on ebay I think but you then need to match it to a debarker that has the correct drive sprocket to run the belt.

Can do I suppose but grit and crud shouldn't really ever be near the bar and chain in the first place [I know you have quantified that ref domestic situations]. Really the whole issue of greasing the nose is a piece of string question - depends on how you do it, when you do it, what sort of cutting you are doing, how well you maintain your gear [a clean bar allows bar oil to seep to the nose bearings] and all manner of other variables. A bit like the 'how often should I sharpen the chain' the answer being 'when it is dull'! It's the hardest thing I find in phone conversations - people want quick all encompassing answers - when they do not exist.

When you run the saw after greasing do so very very gently and allow any excess grease to get pushed out. I'm pretty sure [but by no means 100%] Stihl went to sealed nose bearings due to issues with people incorrectly greasing the nose.

Had failures across the board on all brands of bars - pretty much proportionate to what we sell.. here's most recent one - sprocket nose failure - this may not have been anything to do with the drive rim [more likely over greased then run up too quickly] but rim had never been changed and even though hardly used the chain tie straps are already showing damage.

Almost forgot the 'best' picture of what a damaged or worn drive rim will do to the chain!

The bar was pretty new so you would not have a drive link bottoming out. In pretty much all instances the bar is new or new ish hence I get called to ask about warranties. The bar being forced to cut could well have been an issue - and also a slack chain - as the chain comes around the nose it slaps the bar just behind the nose sprocket.