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Everything posted by Rob D
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I'm still a big fan of crypto - but not quite so evangelical as 2017. It's not really being used... but these spikes in price are fun - just don't buy into them!
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It's a rotational market so other coins will likely have their day in the sun! But bear in mind this sort of rise always proceeds the inevitable fall - but when who knows.
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Yep it's gone fully parabolic - it'll never sustain it though.. Not got any DOGE but got a fair few others....
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Yep the Intersect mill is very under rated and lots you can do with it!
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Yep I guess you could but the idea of this method is more that you can mill a larger log with a smaller saw. So with this one you could not do it with an MS660 but using this method you could. To halve it you would have to have a big horizontal set up..
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Not only can you quarter a log with this mill - you could mill the quarter sections with it as you go [not done here as they wanted to load onto a bandsaw].
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Aha that could be the issue indeed... I never used to do it like I should of done when full time on the tools - but now I see the warranties come in it's such a crucial thing to do. Rims are ok to get - some of the drive sprockets are hard work to get from suppliers though... really should have a spare to hand for each saw if you can.
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Nice never new it! Prob work better in the aux oiler if it is thinner [in summer anyway..]
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When you next get a new bar try and change everything - ie new drive sprocket/new bar/x2 or 3 new chains. Run as a batch and see if that works.
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Sorry if I already posted on this - not got time to go through the whole thread. Here is what I see that can cause early bar wear and failure: In first place [by a good margin] - not changing the drive rim or drive sprocket regularly. And now to customers I sound like a parrot 'have you changed the rim on that saw before you run that £400 Cannon bar?'. Often the answers run the same a) The saw is pretty new 2) I don't think I need to do that yet 3) Yes I did it recently [then find out it was 9 months ago] 4) What are you talking about [as in what is a drive rim]? 5) It should be fine I think... 6) I checked it it's fine [it's not] 7) The saw has only had 'light use' [I have still not figured out what 'light use' of a chainsaw is - it's either cutting wood or it's not!] 😎 8] My Husky dealer says it is all fine. This is not about how long the timing is - if you use an old knackered chain on a new drive rim or sprocket to 'save money' - you will wear that drive rim 3-6 times faster. So yes it may only be on there 1 month - but you've done 6 months worth of wear and tear to it. If you use a new chain, new drive rim/sprocket on an old bar - same thing [though if the bar is correctly dressed and maintained this is much less an issue than point 1.] Do not use old chains on a new bar - and be very very wary of running a chain that has de railed on a new bar [that really knackers things]. On an old shagged bar- you'll get away with it - you won't on a new bar and it will cause some of the issues you are talking about. Then there are other issues that can cause this - not matching the correct chain to the bar [but sounds like you are]. Another way to look at it is chain sharpening - do you use a guide as in a guide that controls tooth length/shape etc etc? Whether you have saw dogs or not - that saw should pull nicely through the wood... you should never have to apply too much pressure.. I know I can't sharpen by hand well - hence use the precision grinder [not trying to flog you one - we don't have them at moment anyway...]. Try a guide like this
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Drone recovery in Rickmansworth, Hertfordshire
Rob D replied to Mark Andrews's topic in General chat
That's a pretty good climb - how about offer a price to get it down so folks know where they stand? If it were me I'd want £80 notes - by the time you drive there, get your gear out and get up and down and packed away, back home looking at 2 hours I would estimate. Just my take on it... -
I've seen one of these before - pretty heavy but did like the screw type height adjust! Thanks for posting the instructions... what age are they dated?
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Ah ok are you sure the GB 28" bar is 404 as I am not sure we sell any on 404 only in 3/8... what's the part number on that bar?
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I would not get too hung up on the Granberg chains - go for the Oregon or Stihl option as they are easy enough to source, are cheaper and easier to sharpen. The only point that I would question in your post is 'Both had only moderate use and were professionally reground after the last batch of milling'. You need to put yourself in a position to do this sharpening - otherwise you are reliant on other people and it will always cost more. Or use other people but you're going to have to pay more to do so [hence trying to salvage one chain out of 2 is contradicting yourself in my opinion - if you want to save money you need to sharpen professionally and break and mend chains yourself]. Breaking and mending info and kit here - and it has the info to do it yourself. 24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK 24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal. Break, mend and repair your own chains using this kit.
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If you have spare cash/grant money then I would advise to invest in your business and yourself and get prepped. Have spares to hand - don't rely on the courier and next day delivery. Spare drive rims/sprocket for each saw/chains and if you can bars. I am now spending an hour to 2 hours a day replying to 'when will it be here' questions - and sadly I can't give an answer [or if I do it's often 'approximate' answer which then changes. We are investing more into stock - but when the time of order to time of delivery is now up to 8 months there is no way lines will last until the next order.
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It's rare I'm both helpful and right in the same day so appreciated 😀
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Yep - the idea of doing an offer on the set it so that if folks then have a reel of chain it: Increases your skill set You are not hitting nails then needing chains asap with all the stress it entails It's a LOT cheaper - around 40% off chains [yes larger outlay initially] We make mistakes making chains - but with the reels we'd have to send the wrong reel [unlikely] You can take a link out of chains that have stretched It's much more efficient in terms of time/packing/posting and general mucking about Did do a thread here on .325 .050 but it's not as exciting talking about this over COVID it seems 😅
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We have plenty of these but price will be going up to £98-00 for the set shortly. 24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK 24548B/24549B Oregon Breaker and Mender Package Deal. Break, mend and repair your own chains using this kit.
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Just nudging this thread - supply will be getting tighter this year. Or at least that is the probability. Everything we are ordering is longer production times - and they don't stick to these times anyway! We are really having to work hard chasing suppliers [every day occurrence]. Supply starts drying up and folks like me start upping their orders - so supply dries up further. Buy what you need well in advance. Echo 2511 TES are hen's teeth right now [ the orders that are coming in are sold long before they ever reach the importer... and are getting rationed to dealers]. Maybe it won't work out the way it is looking but am giving a heads up.
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Been wanting to try this for ages - if you can leave the log where you are milling it makes a lot of sense to mill it and sticker it as you go [without moving the planks]. This is only a small tree - but even then the system seemed to work well. It also means the log is really well stickered which should mean straighter boards. You would not need a second person to move boards. When you do come to move them they would be ready for use/sale and lighter. Still go some more tweaking to do on this ie. I want to square each end vertically + debark the out side of the log + seal the ends + spray the outside after the debarking with Borax and seal the sides as well. Imagine if this worked on a 3ft log?
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Yep and I appreciate that - we are probably not the company for you. We were always set out to be an internet company and we do that well. But maybe because of that we do other things badly and it's not going to work for some. That's why I do the whatsapp/e-mails/arbtalk personally - cause no other bugger will consistently! But the phone calls can take up to 30 mins a go... I have a daughter now and so am much more limited with time and we have got much busier... the priority will always go to those that have ordered online + getting their gear out and on busy days the phone goes unanswered while this happens. Not ideal but it's the way it is.
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Have we had a 'First go at Milling' thread recently?
Rob D replied to TuscanPhil's topic in Milling Forum
Milling is such a large topic - and there is no best. Tried to explain it to someone the other day like. Say there are waves by the beach and you want to go surfing. One person is body boarding at a wedgey spot in the corner Another person is on a paddle board way out back Another on a long board closer in Short boarders are dotted around closer to the breaking part of the waves So they are all surfing waves right - [analogy milling wood]. Who is surfing the best? Who has got it right? Which is best? What should I do? Prob the best answer is - try them all - see which works best for you - stick with that. So in this thread you may start of milling a few trees. But then it becomes fun. The trees are milled and you sell the boards... hmmmm now you fancy a bigger set up and there's a farmer who has had a big oak tree in his field for 3 years will he let me have it? And on it goes.... -
Have we had a 'First go at Milling' thread recently?
Rob D replied to TuscanPhil's topic in Milling Forum
Haha I didn't know that - I'm not at all up on the rare mounts but if you want diagrams they are here and you can always fettle stuff to suit yourself. https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Oregon-Bar-Mounts-Catalogue.pdf -
Yep sorry - calling us is not the best contact route [or Facebook or Instagram]. I do get it that sometimes you just need to talk to someone but we only get to the phone 40-50% of the time. It's not being lazy, or not caring - it's a combo of factors [which may as well list] There is only myself and Laurence [General Manager] that can answer most queries - would rather not have someone there who then says [after you give a lengthy bit of info] 'sorry I can't help with that we'll have to call you back'. Most questions can be answered quickly on whatsapp [our preferred contact] and also I answer these myself [because it's fast and I can help the most people get the most answers with the most accuracy in the fastest time]. If I answered more calls - I am on the phone longer - which means I can't get round to answering other peoples e-mails and messages [which I am already struggling with working evenings and weekends etc]. I can't train anyone as a) not got the patience b) I've not met anyone yet who is interested enough in bar mounts/chain types and ID/file sizes/milling/chain sharpening etc etc as all this stuff for the most part is boring as... and I never knew the information when I was full time on the tools. Because it's boring 😅 So where we are at is - Laurence answers the landline phone but there are times he cannot do this. I answer e-mails and whatsapps which because it is my business and no one else will do it how I want it done so I do it! 😏