Rob D

Yep - it's a tried tested and working model. And you can add all sorts of tweaks, twists and turns. Heap in more misinformation or headline articles - 'Mother begs for law change after toddler dies due to smoke inhalation because of faulty woodburner. Isn't it time we said enough is enough and moved to cleaner energy and fuels?' And as said - bring in the legislation - 2 years later show the information it was based on was false - scapegoat/sack a couple of people you wanted rid of anyway - and onto the next drama for some more money making/red tape creating nonsense. Time we had us a truck hoedown to Londinium!

Used to spend sooo much time in a circular conversation with customer like this: 'Its all got too big, we need tidy it up and reduce it by at least half'. Me 'it'll look terrible, as we stand here now it looks thick because all the growth is up high - take it down by half it'll be time consuming and look patchy and you'll ask us to take them out.' 'I don't want to take it out, we need the barrier, it gives us privacy' Me 'ok when you do want to take it out give me a call' 'Yes but we got you here now as we need to do something, it's got too big' Me 'ok what do you want to do' 'Tidy it up - it's just got too big' Me 'but it's too late to just trim it up because if we trim it it'll cost half as much as taking the whole lot out' 'Why's that?' Me 'to get to the end of the thing will need a platform - and after 2 years you'll be in the same situation - just poorer' 'Ok what would you recommend?' Me 'Take it out and re plant it if it is has become a problem' 'We like having the screening and barrier though...' Oh God thankyou that I don't have to do that no more!

Yep I had to take my cap off and walk away from a couple of jobs a little red faced saying 'sorry I completely underestimated this it's a weeks work that I put a day and half on!'

I think the operative word there is 'should' - if you saw what I saw day to day there is a massive variance of skill levels amongst the pros [that is putting it very gently - you would be shocked!]. I was pretty terrible at maintenance when I was full time on the tools. My chain sharpening and other skills only got good when I started selling stuff! Also it comes down to what you are good at - I can't sharpen a chain well manually as my eye is not able to do it - I have to use a guide to get an accurately sharpened chain.

Yep I think that's a good idea - although may wait for them to come to us - so much easier that way and you know the person is then keen.

Yep I wonder if as long as each tooth has the depth setting correct does it matter on tooth length as each tooth is then still taking the same bite as it's neighbours. Could prob set up a timed test to see - but such a lot of faff changing chains and timing cuts!

Yep they seem ok to sharpen to me. Performance I haven't used them enough yet but from what I have seems good. I saw testing data as compared to Oregon - it was close on most tests - slightly worse in some - but slightly better in others.

Cheers

Yep I mean if you can do that then prob there is no use case for yourself... but that said in a few months if you've bought one and thought 'actually is quite handy having the additional reference there and I like the chain as well and I like the price'. You never know!

It's pretty critical to get tooth length the same length - as then each tooth takes the same bite - each tooth shares the work. It makes cutting more efficient, smoother, and the chain should seem to stay sharp longer. Can you cut with missing teeth or some teeth missing? Yep but it does make a difference - it's personal though as in if you don't mind this difference then does it matter? Probably not.. Chainsaw milling the chain needs to be right to work well. It's hard enough with a correct chain!

Nope not at all - and you need push back/challenges to ideas like this as it allows them to be improved/answered.

Be interesting in a year to see if this idea takes off - or like many of my other ideas fades peacefully into obscurity 😅

Yep I think the witness mark helps with the angle but it doesn't give any visual as to the length of the tooth. And as above if you have a Granberg grinder that is going to be accurate - but why not have this additional info there if it's an option?

Yep - if you use a grinder with a backstop or guide and/or know what you are doing you won't need this - but either way it doesn't detract from the usual use of the chain in any way. Pricewise it won't be more expensive than what is already out there. From what I see most struggle with sharpening which is why there are so many guides and methods out there but having it built a guide into the tooth is new - we'll see how it goes. A lot of people throw the chain away after they hit something or if they are halfway down the tooth and can't get the length right. This could help that.

Yep it's all horses for courses - let's face it there is no 'best' chain - or best anything. There is what works for you on the day at the right price - and in that moment that is the best chain! For some this could become the go to chain - won't use nothing else - for others it won't be worth the trying... better than Stihl? Unlikely - maybe on par with possibly.... depends on how much you value the additional markings. Certainly the chains I have got so far look the business. Pricewise will be competitive. Mainly it'll be ripping chains to start with but if it works out we'll increase the range across the board. Even got some 3/8 lo pro .050 ripping chain in a full skip coming... [but not with the markings!].

I was pleased with it for around 48 hours 😅

Around 5 months ago after having the same conversation about chain sharpening and how important it was to get all the chain teeth the same length and the same angle - when I got an idea - what if there were markings on the top plate that told you how far down the tooth you were and also helped you keep the angle correct? The last mark on the chain may tell you when the chain is finished - but this is too far away to get any sort of reference as to tooth length and angle when you're a 1/3rd or 1/2 way down the tooth.... How would you do it and would it a) work and b) be economical to do? Some lines would be good - what if the first line was the shortest and the last line the longest? So we did that and working with a very forward thinking manufacturer [who didn't just say 'no we don't do that' - they said 'hey we'll try that for you' - which says a lot about them and no you prob won't of heard of them... yet!] First few working samples made and tested... not done enough work with them yet. Chain seems of good quality. So it was possible - more time and different techniques later and we got some working chains with the markings on - hard to see in certain light but we didn't want to cause any loss of the integrity of the chain... Oh yes - liking that sir.... and there you have it - it may not lead to much [but regardless it's patent pending], but it could lead to a lot. Panther Plus [or P+] chainsaw chain. And what if we also included some lines [in between the top plate lines] on the side plate so you have another reference point if you are in between the top lines? P++ chainsaw chain. It will take some time for all the different chain sizes to be made [we also have a new labeling system coming that will make it much easier to ID chains]. So what sizes is the available in and where do I buy it and how much is it??? 1) We have a few samples now and coming in we'll have it in the following: 3/8 .063 72 drive links for 20" Stihl and 3/8 .063 84 drive links for 25" Stihl 3/8 .058 72 drive links for 20" Husky and 3/8 .058 84 drive links for 24" Husky [these Husky chains actually have a further modification in that parts are nickel plated and cutters are double chromed for greater durability without losing cutting efficiency]. 3/8 lo pro .050 Ripping Chain 114 drive links for 36" lo pro bars 3/8 lo pro .050 Ripping Chain 137 drive links for 42" lo pro bars.

I got so little left in that will just leave for now - talk about from Hero to zero [or near zero!]

Tentatively - but fear has now got a bit of a hold - which should be a better time to buy innit. But as always when crypto is low it's a lot harder to buy than when it's booming. This time round at least have managed to stick more to a strategy and dollar cost average into the lows. This time next year Rodney 🙄

They look really good but at the cost of a trailer as well and that they say not to use it on the road seems like something mounted on a 3.5t truck then use the trailer as the load carrier would be better and prob not much price difference. I have one on my truck [bought it Scotland and it came with the crane out the factory ie not retro fitted]. It's been brilliant - not sure of what weight I can carry but everything on the truck is aluminum and so pretty light. Don't use it much these days but still handy to have.

Here are the Cannon bars coming in in 1 week. We're not going to pre book them it'll be first come first served. Plenty of carving bars there but not too much else... sadly no 24" Husky bars which are now out of stock for us across the board. But you can adapt the S1 mount bars with the GB912 Adapter Chainsaw Bar Adapter D009 9mm Husky Studs to 12mm D025 WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK Use this adapter plate in order to fit 12mm Medium Stihl type bars to the Husky mounting studs which are 9mm. 1) After we have had them for 1 week prices will be going up by 14% - Cannon are now almost a year production time [and they have put their prices up end last year]. Inflation will now be an ongoing thing in the economy for the next few years I'd say. Anyways 1 week to buy at the current prices so stock up. 2) Next Cannon order is after this in July time [not sure what we have on there]. We are overlapping orders now to try and keep stock in but forecasting a year in advance is a tough task. To find out the price of the bar - type in the part number into the top of the website: CAG-SP1-66-63-4 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CAG2-SP2-50-50-3LLS CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-8-43 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-8-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 30 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-10-43 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 30 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-10-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-12-43 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-12-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 40 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-14-43 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-14-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 12 8202.40.60.60 CCD-C1-16-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 8 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-C1-12-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-C1-16-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 8 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-C1-20-43 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 2 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-C1-20-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 4 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-H1-20-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 2 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-S1-24-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 2 8202.40.60.60 CPP-S5-10-43 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 4 8202.40.60.60 CPP-S5-12-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 6 8202.40.60.60 CSB-H1-15-58-2 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 12 8202.40.60.60 CSB-H1-17-58-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 16 8202.40.60.60 CSB-H1-36-63-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 4 8202.40.60.60 CSB-H1-42-63-4 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 2 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-18-63-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 16 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-24-50-DL-2 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 6 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-24-50-DL-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 6 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-24-63-DL-2 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 6 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-24-63-DL-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 10 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-28-50-DL-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 12 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-32-63-DL-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 4 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-36-63-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 2 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-36-63-DL-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 4 8202.40.60.60 CSB-S1-41-63-3 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 2 8202.40.60.60 CSM-H6-18-50-2 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 12 8202.40.60.60 CSM-H6-20-50-2 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 5 8202.40.60.60 CSM-H6-20-58-2 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 6 8202.40.60.60 CSM-S5-12-50-3LM CHAINSAW BAR CAN 20 8202.40.60.60 CCM-C1-24-50-3LM CHAINSAW BAR CAN 1 8202.40.60.60 CCQ-H1-24-50 CHAINSAW BAR CAN 1 8202.40.60.60

Yep I'd be interested to know as well [started collecting vintage Omegas 2 years ago... I know about as much about them as the actual engine on a chainsaw - ie. not a lot!] I couldn't find much else out there that works as well as a store of value that will only ever go up.

Have read through all the posts - it's a hard one but I don't like the 'feel' of it. Asking for £10-00 to return your watch - then having received it not taking any action [ie. even if to call and say 'look I don't feel comfortable sending this can you come and collect it please']. I think you have already acted respectfully throughout this and given the widow plenty of time and distance to respond and I'd now go down the solicitors route to get something in writing that shows you have a claim. I know this will cost money but you are pretty much out of alternatives. Knocking the door could be a very awkward and embarrassing situation which will cost you a fair amount of time and also [likely] still not get your watch back. If the watch is worth £4k you could allocate £600 to £1k towards solicitor fees. That way you then did your best and it won't be a nagging worry that keeps coming in and out of your mind. You'll either get it back - or you won't - but you can move on either way.

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Be good to see how you find it - yep I find that on battery saws always forgetting to check oil level!