Rob D

You may get away with it but I think there's a limit on how much a 'gift' can be.... I think they're pretty wise to it these days. Smaller items seem to get through fine as gifts but larger items I'd say not.

As above you will have to pay duty on it (it will fall into a certain category and be a percentage of value), a processing charge from the shipping company and also the big one - VAT (which everyone forgets!). Usually the shipping company will ask for all this before they deliver.

Was just waiting for the saw to bounce back at him..... that was really cringeworthy.

You certainly put your balls on the traintrack with that last post. But it seemed to me to be from a constructive angle.

:thumbup:Excellent!!

That is shockingly dangerous and cowboyish..... but did have to have a giggle at the end! Sketchy buggers!

I don't think you'e done a bad job there personally.... You may have been better off taking the 'after' picture from the same angle and distance as the first one. The second pic makes the tree look smaller as is taken from a greater distance away.... It may be a bit more than is healthy for the tree but then most of the pruning we do rarely does the tree much good anyway does it? At least you've thought about the job carefully, tried to balance the trees needs with the customers needs...

Nice job Mozza - what a great prize!

I think there's very few out there who manage to earn good money just by timber milling.... it's more that you do say logs as well or tree work. The only way to make money out of an Alaskan is to be able to dry, make and market products that you make out of the wood. One good day milling will give you enough timber to make stuff for the other four days. I charge £400-00 a day for me the Peterson and alaskans. Over 10 miles then they'd be mileage on top of that but I wouldn't want to be doing contract milling each day.... maybe a day a fortnight max.

Billboard idea would work a treat! Unfortunetly the council has much less clout than the people who live there though....

I know what you mean - I'm quite lucky with my set up and although storage costs are more it does make things easier when you don't have to worry about covering everything up in the rain. I've e-mailed Joe Miller from Bag supplies about barrow bags but as someone said I think yes they do. End of this year I really want to do logs with just the minimum of handling cause this year I've felt I've wasted a lot of time.... Those barrow bags are a really good idea though!! Great way for people to try your logs before they have to commit to a full load. Will have to get some in!

Here's some pics of new vented log bags I've started using. They take a full cubic meter, have 2 mesh sides, 2 strip vented sides and strip vented bottom. Also 2 tipping loops at bottom of bag. I have to say they look the absolute business, designed for the job and will mean bone dry wood for the end of the year. All materials are UV resistant and if I can get 3 uses out of each bag then they'll be good value. They were £5.30 each + vat inc delivery for 200. If I drop the bag at the customers I'll take a £5-00 deposit on it or just tip the logs from the bag onto the drive. Not sure if my little crane will lift the bags off yet but I think it'll manage when it's all dry. Got them from Joe Miller Bag Supplies (fibc) Ltd 83 Hawick Drive, Dundee, DD4 0JY T - +44 (0) 1382 736334 F - +44 (0) 1382 732875 M - +44 (0) 775 365 0195 W - Bulk Bags, Vented Log Bags, FIBCs, Nets, Sacks, Liners, from Bag Supplies (fibc) Ltd Excellent service and will be going back for more in a couple of months (and maybe for some 0.5 cubic meter bags). This means I only handle the wood once when it is split and goes into the bag. Then it's all done by the forklift.

Will be sold out by the end of next week. Last few days has been frantic with calls but I'm not delivering in the ice. Why do people always leave it until there last log to order more.....

I was looking at log splitters and also have to say Chris at Riko was really helpful. I was looking at the towable self powered processers..... but I came to the conclusion they're not really made for day in day out use.... But these towable vertical/horozontal self powered splitters look the business.

I've also found softwood is fine as long as is split and stored undercover for a year or so. Been selling it all through this year and not a single complaint.

Ditto above. And if it is split quickly and stored correctly I'm sure you could get the moisture down in 2 years for optimum burning.

Nice work. Tommer was saying sycamore is best left to dry stood upright with a little space in between. It's a great wood for inside for worktops and what have you as it goes really hard and has such a close grain.

Great to watch! Cheers for the pics.

Cheers. The thrones I think were carved by one of Mark's lads. The Peterson works well with the Alaskan as you can take off slabs or posts depending on how the wood looks. If you have a lovely burry piece it's nice to be able to whip a slab off with the Alaskan (the top being flattened by the Peterson). Also you can use the Peterson to edge into the wood 8" on each side. The kerf is 2/3 of the Alaskan but it still means the Alaskan has much less wood to cut through and it flys down the log!! Although this is a bit of a pain to line the cut up so the Peterson cuts the exact same line as the Alaskan. But in this instance I was doing contract milling and I made a load of furniture for the owner in his garden including one of the biggest tables I've ever made. I'll get some pics of this later in the year.

And a few more!

Some pics of me milling some oak (job passed on curtesy of Mark Meritt - many thanks).

I'd love one of those makita morticers...

In my opinion you'd be better off saving up and going for an MS 880 or Husky 3120. I know you'll spend another £300-00 but well worth the extra money IMO.

Sorry but I don't agree. In that situation it is unlikely you or them would be thinking clearly about possible legal repercussions. You'd act in the spur of the moment and do your thinking later!

Just to back up other comments on the training thing - if you're going to buy a chainsaw and you've not used one before then CS 30 basic cross cut and maintenace is a must. When you're doing the course you'll get plenty of good advice on what saw would most suit you. It makes sense to do the course finanacially - you need to know how to sharpen a chainsaw and maintain it as otherwise you'll be to and fro from the local garden machinery shop all the time.