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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. Just buy lots of files - they're cheap enough! I've experimented with diamond files and grinding stones and although they do give a good edge they still wear and they're slow.
  2. You do get what you pay for with moisture meters. These ones are fine for firewood but not for milled timber.
  3. Both Oregon and Stihl do chains that are specifically designed to reduce kickback (the depth guages and rakers are different).
  4. I got 3 of these wedges from Clarkes Ochsenkopf Aluminium Twisted Wedges | Clark Forest : Forestry Tools They are one of the best things I have come across in recent years and will split huge dirty great knotty rings like you wouldn't believe! Bore cut a few slots here and there into the ring and away you go with a sledge hammer. Then the chunjs can be loaded onto the splitter.
  5. You have a lot of competition and yet you've still sold out before Christmas. I'd put your macra carpa up to £75-00 a cube.
  6. Sounds a fair price to me. If he's not interested then I'd leave it.
  7. Excellent - the pics need to be low res and updated 1 at a time or it seems to crash I'm going to get it so you can reply and include pics as well i.e. someone sees your wood and says 'looks nice but what about 3" planks' so you can continue thread with further pics.
  8. Course Josh. You can put 1 plank up there if you like taken from different angles. Or even a small piece of wood - whatever you like!
  9. Cheers Bob - I thought you'd be in there quick. Have you got any timber to sell you can put up there?
  10. Thanks I have e-mailed them
  11. Oh and I've ok'd this with Steve before putting this thread up.....
  12. When people buy a mill they love milling timber. You make a couple of benches and tables and then you wonder what to do next? Really you could do with selling a lot of the timber quickly straight off site or even before you have felled the tree. But how do you source buyers? I've set up a new wood forum where small producers can sell their wood, rustic furniture have timber milled etc. treet| Wood Forum It will not be as comprehensive as arbtalk, will prob take a long time to get established, and will have lots of teething problems. But it's free and may generate you extra cash. I expect it to take at least a year to get a good member base and regular buyers. To start with I want sellers to start posting pics so that there is something for visitors to browse through. Then once there are plenty of sellers I will start putting threads up on the woodworkers forums to attract buyers. Please don't be shy posting up what you've made and the planks you have to sell. Constructive comments and feedback welcomed! But bear in mind this will take a lot of tweaking to get right
  13. Rob D

    Student fees

    I think the trouble is there are so many uni courses out there now and much more students compared to what there used to be. And of these a lot of courses are not vocational i.e. they don't lead to a job afterwards. With some courses its very dubious as to their value at all...
  14. There prob was damage but just very minor. My theory on this is that it depends on the metal first off i.e. soft, hard, old or new. Then the next factor is how well sharpened your chain is. Different teeth size and raker height then some of the teeth will get absolutely hammered. Everything right and just slight damage to all. But really it probably has more to do with the type of metal you hit. As said it's stones that seem to write off chains bending the tips over and stripping the outer chrome layer
  15. I weighed a cubic meter of beech the other day. Freshly split it weighed 600kg. So a ton of this would make 1.67 cubic meters. I suppose it depends on the wood a bit for how much volume a ton of wood makes.
  16. I sell mixed hard and softwood for £80-00 cubic meter and hardwood only for £95-00 cube. 75% have bought mixed this year and no complaints (yet!).
  17. Sorry Matt but not sure this would work - different wood weighs different weight when dry (and wet for that matter) and then there would be all the wood inbetween wet and dry. And to boot I think would just serve to confuse the poor innocent god fearing public even more! A cubic meter of split wood is a cubic meter of split wood- to look into how much air space from one cubic meter to another in terms of how it is stacked or a bag is filled is not relevant IMO.
  18. Yes I did... I have never in my life come across so much metal in a tree. Took out almost 18 nails and screws, sawed through another 7, and there's more in there! There was metal in the middle, in the bark everywhere! Hard work, tricky dismantle but got some nice wood and enjoyed working with Charlie who'd got the job.
  19. The cubic meter vented log bags are the best thing I ever bought for selling logs. Just fill them up and don't worry too much. A cubic meter filled bag is a cubic meter. Don't worry about log count as already said this is irrelevant.
  20. Cheers. I don't want to derail this thread. I'll be putting up a seperate thread when it's all up and running. Back to the topic - the people who do best with mills already have an interest or use for the timber before they've entered the milling game i.e. as said a carpenter or joiner, furniture maker etc. It's harder for a tree surgeon as where do you find the time to market your timber after you've milled it... It's hard enough just finding that extra time to mill it let alone all the rest!
  21. However all that said.... I'm getting a forum in the next few weeks that will function purely as a method for small wood producers to sell their timber. You'll fill in a form as to what you have, which area it is, how much you want for it etc. And of course be able to post lots of pics. Woodworkers can then come onto the forum and look for what wood they are after and see who is milling near them. People will also be able to advertise their timber in the round that they a) want to sell, b) want to have milled for them, c) a tree surgeon can advertise a tree due to come down and see if anyone wants to come in and mill it d) you're taking down a tree and can mill it on site - is anyone interested in the milled timber and picking it up direct off site e) people who have timber in the round and want to sell it as firewood. In short I want it to be a medium where people can trade wood. Whether it'll work or not who knows! ....
  22. It's a very good point you make in this thread. Something I've asked myself a few times over the last few years... Why is it such a tricky question? Because to make a success of milling financially IMO you need to committ to it in terms of time and money. Who are you going to sell the wood to? It takes time to mill and store planks properly - very difficult to do if you are a working tree surgeon with dead lines. If you are doing it to make a few things for yourself, friends and family or you have some building projects or some such in mind then you are onto a winner - you would not be able to buy what you can make. You will save a fortune milling your own wood. My advice would be to buy a mill, mill just the good stuff i.e. that acacia sounds good, any straight oak always a winner, any wood you just fancy seeing what it looks like milled. Firewood the rest. If you then get people sniffing around or someone buys a load of planks from you then it may be worth looking more into it as a business.
  23. Ridiculously dangerous.
  24. Alaskan is easy to fit to any chainsaw really - just clamps straight to the bar. As you have put it would work well breaking the bigger timber down in order to resaw with your M7.
  25. Yes I have to be the most biased person to comment on this - feel free to tear this post apart. Alaskan - pros - cheaper, quicker to set up and mill, portable, easy to use, can do huge logs. Cons - the U bolt can be a weak point (these are being made out of better quality steel now), can't build up a static system, no add ons to make milling easier. Logosol - pros - well made, can be added onto to become M5 M7, vast vast amount of additional equipment available, static set up works well on regular shaped logs. - cons - more expensive, fiddly to set up on one off logs, designed in Scandinavia so more based around milling softwood (at least all the demos I've seen are based around milling softwood). But I'd be interested to hear what logosol owners have to add as I've never owned/run a logosol only seen demos.

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