Rob D

That's some talent well done for posting

I could get my Peterson mill up to it. But I could use a few more details like where it is? how soon would it need to be milled? Does it need to be paid for and if so how much are they looking. With the way it's fallen there's prob decay in it but that doesn't mean the timber is no use.

It may be your English is bad but unfortunately what you have written above makes no sense. Get a mate to translate it and re post what you want to say!

I'd just buy a dehumidifier off ebay to start with. If you keep an eye open you'll get one for a good price although summer time is when the real bargains are. Other than that as Big J says above. Do a bit of reading on the net but don't worry overly much as experience is one of the best teachers.

Looks good to me. You'll def sell some at the show you're going to

Using a froe sounds good but it's bloody hard work... I tried clefting a load of oak shingles and it's trying to get them uniform that is tricky. I know that clefting will mean you don't saw across the grain etc but most people use sawn shingles and I'm sure you won't have a problem with them. But it's work that won't suit the Alaskan - can you hire in a bandsaw for the day?

Caught me hook line and the lot!! Had a good chuckle at that.

Nice vid Ian.

Just had to post this up. Often when you're working late, it's getting dark yet there are still tools to be picked up, the chipper to be clamped etc you need a headtorch. You can get them off ebay and these will do the job. But I looked on the net and came across these. Gamma LED headtorch - Camping Outdoor Gear Shop - Alpkit They are £12-50 including vat and batteries and postage. They are super bright, excellent quality and have a range of settings. On the front you can have normal white spotlight or white, green or red LED all with the option of flashing. On the back there's even a red bar light that you can set to flash (you change the options on the front by pressing and holding the on/off button). Don't even think about it just buy one - I have not come across a product like this for a long time where for the price you just simply must get one. Nough said!

Nice looking mill there Tom! Glad the chain is working out - you've carved off some good ol slabs there. What do you do with your milled timber?

£24 hitchclimber

Not got any pics using it? Would be nice to see it in action.

Dean I know you want to crack on an all but why not just grow them using mother nature and take a bit more time... If you have to I'd have them in a small polytunnel and use a growlight to supplement normal light. But I think you'll end up spending a lot of time and effort for little reward. Unless you're enjoying yourself then in which case turn the central heating down and the lights up!!

You just place the ladder on the log and screw it down. Tight enough so is solid but not so that it distorts the ladder. You don't really need to use any wedges or packers except in unusual circumstance - if the log has a lot of lumps and bumps then you can smooth these with a small saw free hand first. Screw the ladder in where it meets or nearly meets the log. When you get it all sussed it takes 60 seconds to get the ladder on and solid.

Very nice They'll be lovin that come the summer!

You can quickly screw the ladder down on top of the log, set the mill to cut at 6" and take the top of the log off. This leaves a flat surface for subsequent cuts.

Not daft - I screw the leg into a small wooden plate then that gets screwed into the table. Very simple and strong and the top has no marks in it. Next time I make one like this I'll post.

The strapping system I think was about £150-00.... not cheap but you get what you pay for. The good thing with this system is as the logs dry and shrink you can re tighten without having to attach new bands.

No worrys

Enjoyed the vid - they were tall trees!

Pretty much as above. 10 degrees is the norm. You can play a little with this if you wanted. I find 5 degrees is minimum. This gives less self feeding a smoother board. Increasing the angle say to 20 degrees gives you more self feeding but a rougher board and more chance of the saw bogging down. Granberg chain has scoring cutters that can be filed to 20 degrees with the clearing cutters set to 5 degrees but for ease these days I tend to do the lot 10 degrees. More important in many ways than the angle is the tooth length (getting all cutters the same length), tooth shape (which is more to do with the side angle) and consistant depth guages. A more beaked tooth gives a more aggresive cut and faster chain dulling, a laid back tooth a smoother dustier cut and takes much more effort to push the mill up the wood. More info on general chain sharpening is Guide Bar & Saw Chain Menu and there is also more info on sharpening ripping chain (although I wouls say keep the file flat rather than trying to angle it at 10 degrees).

A few points: You won't get any money back quickly selling logs. In fact it has to be one of the biggest cash flow blockers there is. You need a regular source of timber and then all the equipment to load it, split it (could do this by hand to start), store it and deliver it. Using vented bags on pallets in a polytunnel IMO is the best way to dry wood. Cheap, energy efficient, can be whipped out and delivered dry. But if you have barns then these would do if the ventilation is good. Stack on pallets. Another IMO forget about the trailer idea - that will be too much work hassal and money for the return. Just split in advance and mother nature will dry the wood for free. Work out all your costs and then what you will charge for the wood. I'd say you have a good advantage over competition in that you have a ready market that you can show your dry logs - and therefore charge more for.

Sort of film if you hear the story line you think - can't be that good - but this is one terrific film... .... unlike black swan which is just a bit weird.

Have you marked the logs in some way so they can definately be identified as yours Dean?