Rob D
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Everything posted by Rob D
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Did I win that hitch climber Mick?
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You can advertise it for free on my web forum which is specifically for small wood producers like yourself. Go here treet|Hand Crafted Furniture. Register for the forum and you can put pics and posts up. Be as detailed in your info as possible and you'll prob get a response.
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You must have cast iron lungs Tom - One day, one day you will be turned to the dark expensive side ho ho!!
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I've had a few bits and pieces of burr oak in the past. But they always seem to have little tears and around the burrs etc. I don't see how you can dry it without it tearing a bit.... I've got some to mill soon so will keep an eye on this thread. My plan at the moment is to mill it around 2.25", stick it until starts getting warmer then kiln for 24 hours and make it into furniture and oil it. I've done this with a couple of discs a year ago and the burrs are still looking really intact. Obviously the disc has split (backed on plywood to keep stable). But the oil seems to help slow down the drying as well as gluing things together a bit.
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Dry cold wet cold moist air..... brrrr ir all looks nippy to me! Enjoyed the vids Josh and glad things are going well out there.
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That's some talent well done for posting
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I could get my Peterson mill up to it. But I could use a few more details like where it is? how soon would it need to be milled? Does it need to be paid for and if so how much are they looking. With the way it's fallen there's prob decay in it but that doesn't mean the timber is no use.
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It may be your English is bad but unfortunately what you have written above makes no sense. Get a mate to translate it and re post what you want to say!
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I'd just buy a dehumidifier off ebay to start with. If you keep an eye open you'll get one for a good price although summer time is when the real bargains are. Other than that as Big J says above. Do a bit of reading on the net but don't worry overly much as experience is one of the best teachers.
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Looks good to me. You'll def sell some at the show you're going to
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milling roof shingles from pine using alaskan
Rob D replied to offgridchris's topic in Milling Forum
Using a froe sounds good but it's bloody hard work... I tried clefting a load of oak shingles and it's trying to get them uniform that is tricky. I know that clefting will mean you don't saw across the grain etc but most people use sawn shingles and I'm sure you won't have a problem with them. But it's work that won't suit the Alaskan - can you hire in a bandsaw for the day? -
Caught me hook line and the lot!! Had a good chuckle at that.
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Nice vid Ian.
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Just had to post this up. Often when you're working late, it's getting dark yet there are still tools to be picked up, the chipper to be clamped etc you need a headtorch. You can get them off ebay and these will do the job. But I looked on the net and came across these. Gamma LED headtorch - Camping Outdoor Gear Shop - Alpkit They are £12-50 including vat and batteries and postage. They are super bright, excellent quality and have a range of settings. On the front you can have normal white spotlight or white, green or red LED all with the option of flashing. On the back there's even a red bar light that you can set to flash (you change the options on the front by pressing and holding the on/off button). Don't even think about it just buy one - I have not come across a product like this for a long time where for the price you just simply must get one. Nough said!
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Nice looking mill there Tom! Glad the chain is working out - you've carved off some good ol slabs there. What do you do with your milled timber?
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£24 hitchclimber
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Not got any pics using it? Would be nice to see it in action.
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Taking bets on getting my back door kicked in
Rob D replied to Dean Lofthouse's topic in Tree health care
Dean I know you want to crack on an all but why not just grow them using mother nature and take a bit more time... If you have to I'd have them in a small polytunnel and use a growlight to supplement normal light. But I think you'll end up spending a lot of time and effort for little reward. Unless you're enjoying yourself then in which case turn the central heating down and the lights up!! -
You just place the ladder on the log and screw it down. Tight enough so is solid but not so that it distorts the ladder. You don't really need to use any wedges or packers except in unusual circumstance - if the log has a lot of lumps and bumps then you can smooth these with a small saw free hand first. Screw the ladder in where it meets or nearly meets the log. When you get it all sussed it takes 60 seconds to get the ladder on and solid.
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Very nice They'll be lovin that come the summer!
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You can quickly screw the ladder down on top of the log, set the mill to cut at 6" and take the top of the log off. This leaves a flat surface for subsequent cuts.
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Not daft - I screw the leg into a small wooden plate then that gets screwed into the table. Very simple and strong and the top has no marks in it. Next time I make one like this I'll post.
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The strapping system I think was about £150-00.... not cheap but you get what you pay for. The good thing with this system is as the logs dry and shrink you can re tighten without having to attach new bands.
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No worrys
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Enjoyed the vid - they were tall trees!
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