Brushcutter

I've just got a pair of the new shiney Arbortec gloves. They're well made and they've got nice AV pads in them too. Very nice fit too.

google seach may throw up something. I think there is on on the AA contractors CD and on the FCA CD too. If i could find my FCA CD i'd look and send it to you, but i can't. Basically you need to say thing that your committed to protect the environment. Using bio chain oils Using Aspen Working locally Not wasting fuel and electricity Disposing of waste correctly Recycling your waste into wood fuel (logs) Wood chip for mulch.

Some lovely bits of wood there. Was it difficult/costly to make a kiln. I just do green wood but i'd love to be able to kiln dry so i can do more with the nice stuff.

It's an old school method of dealing with hang ups. You wrap the strop around the tree (you can even dog it in with a pulp hook) the you use a bit of wood as a leaver to role the tree. Doesn't work on big stuff but its ace on smaller stuff saves lugging a bar around all day.

I got a metal drill box from screwfix to put all my saw maintencence gubbins in. i did put some wooden dividers in untill i took them out to get more stuff in. I think they were about a tenner. I have: Long and short combi spanner Piston Stop Small allen key (the long one that you get with the strimmers) Large allen key Feeler guages Roller file guide Standard file guage bar dressing tool Flat & round files Metal grease gun bar nuts sprocket spair chain spare spark plug bit of starter cord stump vice PPE wise you'll need: Boots, Gloves, trousers, forestry hat, first aid kit, whisle. Useful bits (essential for felling) Timber tongs (don't bother with a pulp hook) Timber tape (short one will do) Plastic holding wedge 6" or so Felling bar i have a short and a long one. use both depending on the trees. Bit of 13mm rope made into a turning strop Hilift wedge Forest axe. Combi can I've collected lots of bits of kit over the years. Some works for me and has been used, abused replaced and repeated. Other things like pulp hooks sit in the shed and collect dust. Get your 30/31 over and see what works for you as you'll get to play with most of that kit. Then go and buy what you need afterwards. No point in spending a fortune and realsing you'll never use it.

So we can buy one on the day? Its not going to be like this Husky thing, show us a good saw that we all want then not bother to sell it?

Do you have the blue book? Forest Mensuration: A Handbook for Practitioners about 25 quid and it will teach you a lot of what you need to know. It's worth having the field guide one which is green as its waterproof and spiral bound for taking out into the woods. Decimal Hoppus tables Decimal cube tables Top diameter tables Yield class tables There all good books to have. It's worth getting your self a girthing tape in metric and an imperial decimal one (Hoppus) to take out and have a play with. A Clinometer is also a handy tool to have although they are expensive. You can use a cheapy compass clinometer which will do the same job. You do tend to get your eye in i recently looked at a stand of Norway and said 50' timber hight 65' total. Looked at it with the clinometer and i was spot on. When it was on the deck it came out the same too.

Amazing.

I'd ask one of the guys at Jas P Wilsons. They deal in a lot of Valmets Valtra/Valmet and Valtra (all incarnations of the same thing) tractors.

Don't know much about the 6400 series. Our A95 had a very similar problem to yours. It turned out to be the pto clutch wasn't properly adjusted and it had worn away. Needed a new one i don't think it was a wet clutch though or the damage could have been much worse.

How big is big? The 390 395 are good for big timber say 28" plus. I'd fell and crosscut with that but limb out with the 357. I've been using the 576xpg for 30" chestnut and it's a fantatic saw. better than a 372. How many trees will you be doing i use my 357 for some big stuff. I've used a 15" bar on a 346 to do a 30" oak. You can cut 3x bar length.

Get the rootball out thats the best bit. I'd say the wider the boards the better.

I do a fair bit of milling and the slab does pile up, we chip it. If you had a big fancy mill that does kiln drying and all sorts of other things why not get a woodchip boiler and get some of your heating out of a by product. Only an idea i've only really worked in OB.

I wonder if it is for wood chip fuel power a kiln or the like?

Yes but you won't see that reflected in pump prices. 2p has gone on a litre of diesel at one station here overnight.

Looking at my forestry tables i'm getting around 400kg.

What ones you looking at doing? If your thinking of doing 6/8 wheel harvesters/forwarders then your looking at about £150 quid for the skills check then 1500 quid a weeks short course and it can take upto 2 weeks! Can't remember where i got the quote from think it was Barony but they don't have a harvester. If you your looking tractor based stuff then it' a little more afordable. I'd contact a few NPTC assessor and see if they can do it on a day rate. My forwarder was 3 days 2 on the trailer one doing the base unit/theory. They came to the yard too cutting out on travel/accomerdation charges.

Yes NFU have just robbed me blind (still the cheapest for the best cover) As for diesel its only going one way and thats up. I'd love to see a fair fuel stabaliser in place but i doubt it will happen. I ask myself if i went to fill up and it was £2 a litre would i still fill up. Yes i would because i need to, i'd have to change what i charge people and the way i work but if it cost 2 quid it cost 2 quid. I'd moan like hell as would everyone else but i think everyone (who could) would still pay it.

We all say that.

Mine prefers a Willams T22 wide back. She doesn't really get on with the floating bridge of the butterfly 2.

CS44 is an interesting unit. I'm sure when i did the training you could use any size saw you wanted rather than the standard 15" bar. Which is good because you don't really get any training on bars bigger than 18". There is a lot of overlap between CS32 and CS33. If you fell a medium tree you should be able to fell a large one. In reality it's a bit harder than that but it's mainly experence that is the key with larger felling. Standing stems i was taught you could make the face cut a bit deeper to change the centre of gravity slightly. With the windblow CS34,35 & 50 there is a hell of a lot of overlap but it is just good refresher training.

Good machines Doskos. Local firm has a 9" one and it's a beast.

Where about it Surrey?

Bandits are bomb proof. I'm demoing a 150XL in the next few weeks.

I want that! I've got a Stenner 41 (which looks like the saw there) but i want all the extra gubbins to go with it.