treemeup

I use a lanyard and one end of my rope but today used both ends of my rope for the first time in 4yrs getting out to the tip of a small ash limb!

just been watching the first series online but not sure if i'm allowed to post the address? I dont know how Mel keeps a straight face!

I'm on alloy buckinghams at the moment, not as comfortable as bashlins with velcro wraps but I haven't tried buckinghams with wraps yet....my leathers have just broke so velcro's will be on the way soon!

check out the Hiroshima Ginko's, they pretty resilient!! Here's two from me, first a Kauri near fairy falls, over 2meter diamater where i'm stood and split into 3 big big stems, almost as awsome as tana mahuta at the break of dawn(no pics sorry) the second, another kauri, the square one which has to be a bit of a freak of trees.

season it and sell it to a wood turner, they like the whirls in the middle of the log though!

Since the last cold snap we had I've been suffering from pins and needles in my hands and arms at night, this has been getting better recently but I think it could be due to pollarding (heavy use of 200t) while my hands (and nerves) are still cold. Got a doctors appointment on monday so hopefully will get the all clear but I think i'll be doing some warm ups on those cold mornings from now on!

On a different note could another catalogue be produced explaining how different trees act under the same cuts/rigging techniques and what different techniques should be applied when working on certain species? (ie when performing handheld step cuts on pop branches one cut will suffice, when rigging pine its possible to turn a lateral branch 180 degrees before the hinge breaks, when felling willow its more likely to barbers chair etc. There would obviously be a massive amount of information but it'd be a big boost to the knowledge of young climbers. I know that experience is where this is best learnt and that any information of this type be used as rule of thumb and not taken as gospel but I believe that a thread of this type could potentially save damage and possibly injuries...

could be tricky but to add to a pdf maybe a youtube vid showing how to tie (and untie!) could be useful.

Once you've tried to burn the kevlar out of your bar sprocket?

you've got a 6" chipper already dude, i'd be looking at a 95 if i were you, or even a 200 with a winch, thats a bit of kit! the only thing they dont like is bamboo so you should be sweeeet!!

wilkins cider farm in mudgely is top for a good cheese. no wine but a drop of cider instead. you can be there for 3 hours drinking and eating the cheese old roger brings out and he'll never charge more than a fiver. blue cheese is my choice, with a fetzer and sycamore canyon cabernet mmmmmm http://www.ukcider.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Producers_in_Somerset#Wilkins_Farmhouse_Cider

Took this one down a couple of years back, ok to climb imo, but they do make a mess on the ground. Ian (janner) had to go back and spent the whole day raking the guys 20sq ft lawn, we did an ok job of it the first time

I was at uni studying ocean surveying and really didn't want to end up in that profession as it is quite a specialized degree(stuck on a boat drawing maps...zzzzzzz), decided i wanted to climb trees(!?) so i quit uni and did volunteer work for a while to earn sponsorship to buy ppe, pay for nptc's and subsidize my wage with a firm in Cornwall. earnt peanuts working long days on the ground, 1st thins, fencing with the occasional bit of arb so i left there and got a job as a 2nd climber where i quickly found myself in the thick of it.treeguy for nearly 4yrs and been to the other side of the world climbing, yeehaaaaa.

A Kauri near fairy falls

Especially if it all came down the same size as the last piece!

if there's a phone line in the way chuck a rope over it and pull it away or towards the tree and tie it off, usually there is enough give to make life much easier one way or other.

pm's on way. ta

I thought that the dead smaller branches inside the crown have died due to natural selection by way of light not penetrating through the outer canopy, therefore removal of some(not all & not lions tailing) will allow the energy that would have been wasted on these doomed growths to be transfered to the outer canopy as per nature but without this waste. I think that a 10% - 20% thin can usually be found in weak future unions, crossing branches, overextended growth and the occasional leader/secondary leader at the tips to allow light/wind to pass through the canopy. When a crown raise is also included we hit 30% and the maximum we should really remove from a healthy tree in one pop. If this had been the spec for street trees over the last 50yrs surely our cities would now have many many specimen trees which would require less work. some of the larger trees i see near lines/lamp posts seem to have got used to being cut away from target and have almost given up growing near to it(spookily like they know), or grown higher and are no longer blocking eg street light from the street.

use half hitches to lower multiple branches works a treat on whirled trees (monkeypuzzle and the like) but watch out for the weight snapping branches before you get to cut them...saves petrol though. step cut a few braches at a time so as to get more cutting done while you've got your saw(make 'em good and not tangled) if your having to throw branches a bit of a way to hit the drop zone pile them up and do all your cutting then all your throwing (within reason), handy one for wide leylandii hedges! If your felling a stem on a hill/near a target which may take a wack with the stem kicking up or you dont want it rolling use a piece of lowering rope (2-3m) to do a snatch (i guess) cut some notches below fell cut (front and back) for rope to sit in, tie rope above and below fell cut so it holds and cant go anywhere, fell away. remember the ropes gonna try to get off the stump more than the stem! Branches always make good hooks, strops can be good for security on handhelds. Sometimes leave your 200 hanging in the middle of the tree if you don't need it for tips. If your working on pollards and need to cut and chuck get a piece of rope, choke off the new growth, cut from one side while tightening the choke, throw the whole lot to your groundie.

Or a treesurgeon!

zipping on the tail is a goodie! on crown raises over roofs etc hooking drooping branches over your foot with secondary growth before cutting then swing in to the crown where you can hit the dropzone from

Just forked out £30 on a piece of hitch rope with a splice, enter me please as at that price its gonna have to go on the wall!(not that i'm moaning Noddy)

don't sew them up at all, a bit of copydex does the job and boy is it easier!

What are the benefits of an extending bridge?.... I can see that shortening it would be handy but otherwise...?