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treemeup

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Everything posted by treemeup

  1. That'l be why i wasn't exactly sure It's a beaut tho!
  2. Thanks, I'm enjoying it! If I remove the pith and fill it in at a later date with a peg would i avoid splitting do you think?
  3. I start with a ring, cut off the bark and any rot then cut down into the wood kinda guessing the distance for a bowl shape, do this a few times in parallel then go the other way(to form a grid) then bore in at an angle or tap at the pieces to remove the waste, once a sort of bowl starts to form use the tip of the bar in a side to side motion to nibble away and smooth (watch out for kicks!) Woke up thismorning and the sap wood on this one had started to crack, been at it for a bit with a grade 40 flap sander so i could get it oiled. hopefully the colour will fade, before the oil the colours were more subtle and varied And a bit of cherry too.
  4. Cheers guys! I've been using a 60 grade flap sanding disc on the angle grinder to lose the chainsaw cuts which works really well, left the back door open yesterday and filled the kitchen with dust, had some unhappy housemates! I had heard that plum gives some good colours, the compartmentalization walls were green when i was sawing them so hopefully that will come out in the finish. Ive broken a bone in my foot so off work for a few weeks, here's what i'll be doing in the meantime.......
  5. Tried carving a couple of bowls recently. The first two are monkey puzzle, the other two are purple plum after a bout of gandoderma and armilaria, just rough sanded and oiled them quick as ive heard its prone to splitting. Ive also used the centre of the ring which maybe i shouldnt have but ive got my fingers crossed
  6. I saw a large totara burr that had been cut so it could be hung on a wall and cleaned/polished/waxed not exactly sure but it was shiny and on sale for NZ$15,000,whether it actually sold......
  7. maybe we should go back to spiking when doing this kind of work
  8. I wish i'd had a sticker on my 20 warning not to touch the exhaust, got me a nasty burn last week!
  9. Cool...I'd like to see some pics of that, and if i get the opportunity i may try the same. I'm thinking a silky may be the tool for the job!
  10. I like this thread! I did a 20% fracture prune on a mature red oak about 3yrs ago...must go and check how its doing next time I'm in the area. We get specced the occasional coronet/fracture and I enjoy doing it and appreciate why this technique is applied although it is tricky to cut a good one, respect monkey'd! After reading some of the posts referring to stag heading would the occasional ring-barking or a 2/3rds ring barking in the right place instead of a reduction cut achieve this?
  11. Sometimes advertisers get it right! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D2FX9rviEhw]YouTube - Extreme Sheep LED Art[/ame]
  12. Here's my last, kinda work related, as this comps sponsored by an insurance company.....
  13. Here's one our type got to first The second isn't a great pic but there are three 1.5m dbh plus oaks in a row, the first has sycamore saplings doing well from the first fork
  14. I love it, as I was photographing it a couple walked past referring to it as a spider. It's on Ashton court estate, near the entrance to the main house car park. There's an avenue of veteran oaks much older than this one on the western end of the estate but this ones got the most character!
  15. I've been with midland for a while now. Were you working over the river from us that day? I think we've finished now, removing fallen ash from over the footpath and out of the river, stabilising a couple of rootballs and found a twin stem lime which will need to be felled as it was pushed apart by a falling ash. How anybody could object to this work is totally beyond me!
  16. I've been meaning to get a couple of pics of this tree for a while, it doesn't wanna fall uphill!!
  17. I think i may have just got home from the first half of this job, all the work we did today was totally justifiable, we removed three heavily leaning ash stems (one with an inch thick crack all the way through at 10m) from over the highway and lifted the rest of the boundry trees over the road to 5-6m depending on there size, I am pro tree also and had no issues with todays spec!
  18. is that the square kauri on the coromandel Drew?
  19. the lads like logs, what can i say..
  20. my first entry, it all looks a little tonka!
  21. once you can do all tree work specifications to a high standard a good climber should be able to find the balance between a busy climber and busy groundies so that all on sight are working to a similar effort level ,when eg dismantling there is little point in dropping everything into stacks in chippable size branches if there are four groundsman on site with the chipper close.....if however there is a 100m drag for the then this would be good treework. on a reduction a quick climber should have more time to evaluate work and cut positioning and therefore produce better treework than a slow climber working to the same time frame.
  22. also i hope the butt of the tree is to the right of the pic...
  23. it looks as though the cracks are running down the stem from the spike holes, but not as much up the stem. could this be due to the transfer of material down the stem by the cambium being halted above the spike mark while still continuing downwards thus leaving the area directly below the hole susceptible to drying and therefore cracking, especially as it's hot and energy transfer must be nearing its peak right now
  24. if you can get a bit of a swing on, get your groundie to flick you with the tail of your line in unison... it'ssuprising how far you can travel!
  25. ok, i'm sure it'l be fine, its on a site called fanpop.com....just got to episode 9 and of the first series and its missing as are the next 2 but its got most of them.....if you can read chinese? you get double the value!

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