MattyF

We built two like this, the main beams old telegraph poles and all the roof beams and cladding milled from larch and Douglas .. main beams held together with hangers. 1” gaps on the cladding... was pretty easy and satisfying. About a week on each with three of us , I was milling whilst the others did the beams and then kept the cladding coming and caught up and helped them finish to put that on.

Christ your a clever babe aren’t you?? With your years of experience and health and safety expert Khris who last time I checked was climbing on a non CE marked device and lowering rope I’m pretty sure between you two that you could run and dictate to hse where we are all going wrong... I’m at the end of my patience with you to so I’m off this thread and forum for the future.. good bye and **************** off.

It’s more likely to tear you in ****************ing half....

True , I don’t really care any more for climbing though.. this whole two rope crap has taken the last bit of enjoyment out of it for me on commercial sites, gone are the days you can take an aimed dive and a swing to get to your target area of the crown from the the other side of the tree , now it’s just some royal fuck on to traipse 80ms of rope through a canopy getting caught up on every thing and worrying about what it’s going to get caught on or leave you in a vulnerable non escapable position ....and really I have nothing to prove to myself or anyone else so if I’m honest a mewp makes the majority of jobs safer and easier so why not. It just saddens me now most sites and life in general is ran by idiots with risk assessments trying to justify there positions in life by making up and justifying what ever stupid idea that pops in to there head because they have a degree.

Can’t do polls from the app Marc you have to go through the normal site.

Don’t grind on any slope or bank with out them... they have a habit of going over without them! Good machines though and with an impact wrench a few minutes to take off the wheels they still fit through a standard gate.

About all the info there is on it pete.

Aye pete there mechanic was out at overland when I rang today and he was the same last time I rang as well a few weeks back , can’t get a more helpful guy when you do but I want to get stuck in and done... apparently it’s self adjusting so I just didn’t want to wind it up to get the slack and mess up some thing! nothing in the manual apart from the belts are self adjusting and the position of the tensioner

No mick I never said it was , but if your going to harp on about it being the law endlessly it’s interesting to see out of 46 votes 43 are not using it.. I could not give a flying **************** either way if you or I use two ropes or not.. I definitely won’t be when I’m rigging trees that won’t suit it or I feel it’s dangerous and it will certainly encourage me to become a bigger fat middle aged bastard by using a mewp as much as possible.

Well it’s pretty obvious who the only two people who are using it in the poll are.

Any one done this and can help ??? I’m looking at mine after one v belt has snapped and I’m guessing it’s as simple as this... undo the PTO pump that requires one bolt this should slide out?? Screw the slack adjuster up pushing the engine up. Now I’m guessing but not sure that is it I can now now install new belts but how far can I wind the adjuster up and is there any thing I’ve missed?? any tricks to getting all four belts on easily?

The Arb talk oracles are still out in force on this thread i see.

I’d take a 462 over the other saws ... truth is I’d probably use the 500i more as it’s the power of a 90cc saw with the weight of a 70cc... I’d be really tempted to try the 7310 though by it’s rave reviews..I’ve only used a few 7910’s briefly and they didn’t blow me away and want to rush out and by one.

Any long term smart winch users out there want to share there opinion?

No cons really ... maybe cost ? I’ve had quite a few saws over the years with them on and they might only get used 5-10 times a year but theres been times when I’ve thanked god for them !

Bit long for this time of the evening but really enjoyed this podcast, lot of sense talked for any one new or experienced in the industry .. worth a watch well listen when you have some time.

Any one tried those metal notch tethers? I find the tether length is down to how long you tie your hitch cord but you definitely don’t want it soft for advancing up a rope.

Can’t actually find a Carlton guide for 404 ?... maybe stick with a stihl.

So when you pull the wheel down I will pull it down hard for the last part and keep holding it there until it stops sparking really and the cutters all look clean at straight angles and no burrs.. from memory and I’ve only set it up once for 404 chain but you can adjust how much you clean from the gullet of the cutter when you pull the grinding head down. Are you using the correct disc ? I did have a quick blast at doing a 3/8 chain that had hit some flint and there was no way I was going to get a satisfactory result so the correct disc for the chain your using and also keeping the disk dressed to the right shape is important, there should be a guide plate for dressing disks and a dressing stone. I would go with what mutely says a Carlton file o plate is a good buy. I think you can set the grinder up to do the rakers too but I have always have done them when the chains back on the bar just because I’m happy with how I’ve set the grinder up for cutters as to me that’s the most important bit to get right. I think what you end up with any way is never quite the same as a hand sharpened chain and resembles a more out the box chain where the gullet is not huge.. my hand filled chains have the habit of getting a deep gullet that rips out wood, put that on a chainsaw mill and you end up with a very rippled finish that will need a lot of Sanding and planing when it’s ready to use... and they will blunt quicker and if you hit some thing hard there is more chance of buckling and breaking cutters.

I use something like the Oregon 520 and it’s spot on so would definitely recommend one... I was always completely against bench grinders but for milling it’s needed for no ripples on boards and straight cuts.. you will always have a dominant side hand filling no matter how good you think you are at it and this will effect the end product.. I don’t think they are slower ... in fact I know they are not as put a chain I had sharpened in a grinder against a new chain and it was faster quite considerably we thought.. trick is take your time , don’t go slamming the wheel down hard on each cutter just gently grind away , knock off burrs until it’s perfect then move on to the next one.. I have an oil pot I brush on each tooth for badly damaged stuff and just watch out for burrs! . I wish I had brought one years ago for milling chains.

This is one of the reasons though I hate driving tractors on the roads is that it seem dick heads pulling out in front of you is the normal, tractors just seem to be a magnet for it... and over taking in stupid places or worse not overtaking when it’s it’s perfectly safe and not keeping the traffic moving so some retard 4 cars back decides he’s going to break a land speed record to get past almost having a head on... any way hope your not injured Jonny.

How can you pull out on that , it’s hardly inconspicuous! Hope your ok Jonny ,looks like it was hit hard to end up how it did... worth buying back for a yard tractor ?

That’s what I mean they are usually smooth and have an anvil on the side of the casing, I’m only familiar with smaller model though.

I thought schliesing’s have a kind of third anvil against the fly wheel where the weld is to to stop wire wrapping around it... my only experience is of 220’s though. I did have a gravelly that did what yours is doing , the shafts where worn and the fly wheel not balanced at all.. it ate bearings and would move backwards and forwards.

Has the fly wheel been balanced ? What is the weld bead around the outside ? I’ve found overland if you can get hold of there mechanic guy are very helpful.