MattyF

Do you cut your own logs or have them delivered ? Just saying as there is nothing worse for deliveries when the customer shows you his brand new log ahead around the back and still thinks your going to charge the same for carrying around an obstacle course to the new log shed!

Do you recon an extra long tether would solve that rich ?

I've owned all of those and the only saw I miss is the 361. There are many better 50cc saws than those two ,they are near ancient design not good power and delivery and awful anti vibes as well ... They made a mistake replacing the 361 though it's a cracking saw!

I would sell the 24 and 26 with out consideration like but would never get rid of a working 361! .

Petzl are never going to recommend the use of the ZZ with the rope wrench because they will not support a product made by ISC it's simples !

Cheers james I'll look them up

Looks a nice busy job james , who did the uprated springs on the l200 mate?

Looks like a 230 turbo ?

I would be interested to see if any one has tried the SAKA knee ascender ??

Does any one want to buy a haas ?? It's only a year or so old !

You have to get the velox now RMac !!! Hadn't seen that joe but it looks good ! [ame] [/ame]

The haas is pricey but worth it , the thing that makes it work well is the elastic runs down nearly the entire device so you get much more return with the up step of the ascender ..... Another way to get a good return is double up the elastic it's nearly as good maybe better.... I will try out some thing at weekend it maybe a knee ascender you can Russle up for about 20 but have to see if it works first !

It performs great in the wet, not as warm or bulky as the Harkie either. In comparison to the pfanner Ventura though it's a tough call , my Ventura now lets water through in heavy rain after a years use so I'm just wearing it for showers and saving the cut and climb for constant wet deluge work. The only thing against it is the smock design over the ease of using a front zip and it has no hood .... The Ventura hood fits nicely over the top and the run off does not go down your neck when paired with the cut and climb jacket .

Oh and don't descend with the ascenders still attached !

It's not really a case of sitting back and repeating more of walking up and sitting back for a rest and admiring the view when you have done 30-40 ft in under a minute with out breaking a sweat! You could go the route your talking about personally I would just buy a haas off honey brothers or one of the knee ascenders off tree kit , I've made my own and it does work well but tbh for the hassle of testing it until you find something that does work efficiently your better off getting a bit of kit out the box for the job.

They are both attached to the main line, the Haas or knee ascender elastic is clipped to the hitch climber as the neck or chest harness on the top hole which will advance your hitch via the stiff tether on the rope wrench, this is why I like a hitch climber over a traditional pulley as its 3 holes all can be utilised to get the best out of the system. You can use a hand ascender with tape instead of a knee ascender it is quite a bit more effort though and I did find a double hand ascender more ergonomic on very long hauls. You should be able to just climb as you normally would with a hitch as the wrench is designed to do this but yes ideally you want to unclip the neck or chest harness for descents. Adam Bourne posted some good working vids of SRT showing the use of alpine butterfly and pulley for retrievable redirects. I found SRT some thing that took me a while to get used to and I definitely dismissed it for any thing other than long ascents at the beginning of using it but I would not use any thing else for work climbing now. This is my basic every day system , I've tried a lot but this I found the best for me. Wrench and hitch climber HAAS CT foot ascender Neck tether Pinto and krab for anchor points On the spikes I have a modded kiwi climbers ascender and loop for ascender attachment on opposite spike neither are really an essential though. I do have a load of slings and revolver krabs for redirects but for nearly all my climbing I've found natural redirects work just fine.

As far as I'm aware if you want to stay on a hitch with ce Approval the only option is a rope wrench and I would go mk 2.... Then all you need is a foot ascender and if you want to make life easy a secondary ascender, the easiest and most efficient would be a haas from my experience.... Then some kind of sling harness or neck tether to advance your hitch and wrench whilst ascending you can make or buy these easily but tree kit have some good stuff on there site and even introduction to SRT vids on there that are definitely worth a view to give you ideas.

Sharpening a saw in the elements bent over and real close with a sharp new file and got a lump of filling in the eye whipped up by the wind which imbedded it self in my pupil then a few days later started going rusty and was no longer on the surface as it was getting scabbed over and vision in that eye started getting worse so a trip to the eye hospital in Welyn to get it out... I have spent most of my working life daily sharpening saws and it's only happened twice but it's not some thing I would like to repeat.

Good pics Steve , I do exactly the same as pic 2 .....any other way seems awkward , I don't like vices you end up too close and metal filings stuck in your eyes ain't much fun!

Clamp the bar and starter covers between knee and heel and lean over the saw ,I've worked with a few rugby playing lads who can't get in this position and have to use a vice in branches and stumps though.

I had high hopes for it! Tbh I'm not sure I would buy another for any saw they look great but hamper performance by being over weight and unwieldy, had to take one off my 560 as you could really notice it production felling , the weight difference snedding over a Oregon pro lite flicking it around it had to come off, great for Arb work though would of probably lasted the saws life time.

I've had over 12 months use out of one ... I've had 4 bars on that saw from new, one of them being a Sugi that was the most expensive and lasted the least... Found it quite easy to get life out of the original bar just don't use it as a felling leaver or get it caught in falling branches I think they are a really nicely balanced bar as well, unlike the Sugi.

Last Sugi bar Light bar on a 540 lasted about 3 months before the sprocket imploded so back to the techlites for me, if I can get 8 month out a bar I'm happy.

I got a piston from little red barn off eBay and Steve cleaned up the cylinder head but fitted an oem ring and clips just incase !

Came a across a large Feild maple today that had came down in the winds last night....