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18 stoner

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Everything posted by 18 stoner

  1. Too right Rupe, i dare say without the ally, you could be looking nearer 2600kg. Trouble is, whatever wheelbase/cab type, the gvw is still 3500, so good on you:thumbup1: Mine was a quick job afterall, and the main objectives were to build something i was capable of doing myself, with limited time and materials i was used to working with. Also i am happy i managed to keep it under 2500
  2. Not sure if its long or extra Rupe, but it has a 10foot body on it and now chip box is nearer 8 feet with the toolbox off the front.
  3. Bit dodgey round our way:001_tt2:
  4. Just needs wheels painting and new rear mud gueards and we`re sorted:thumbup1:
  5. Chip deflector is easily removable and doubles as top rear door if you need to stop anyone seeing in:sneaky2: As for the cab deflector, i recon the neighbours wouldnt be too keen if i took it away:lol:
  6. Thats more like the spirit:thumbup1: What you doin rest of the week?
  7. Finally got there myself! One of the lads borrowed the truck today to go weigh some scrap in, in true pikie style, and as a result, got it weighed empty. 2380kgs with a full tank of fuel. Real chuffed with the outcome, guess its nowhere near as light as yours Rupe, but guess its steel and done quickly. Hers a pic of how it is now;
  8. Set of pussies, its only a few prickles:lol: Its a bit like the groundy sayin draggin brash makes your arms sore:001_rolleyes:
  9. Grant, it would be nice if you keep us informed as you go along with the project:thumbup1:
  10. I think the bigger the bag, the bigger the chance of mould Ian. Air circulation is the key, if you have a nice open, well vented shed to store in, a few holes will be good, but a sealed up "fold yard" type shed will have less circulation. Based on this, i would say if you have bags with an "open" liner, and can store in an open fronted barn, it might be worth slashing the outer cover of a few bags, and see how they go. I think when it comes to the science of drying logs, there are so many variables its a big learning curve for everyone, and unfortunately, it takes a few years to learn what works best for your individual setup. Mine at the moment, is split green into 0.75 cu meter bags, on pallets, slashed holes, on pallets and put in an old open fronted greenhouse. Seems to work for me at the moment:thumbup1:
  11. Trade secret here; Ever since i started big bags, ive been cutting holes in with a knife and put bags on a pallet, cut some in the base and line them up with the gaps in the pallet. Pallets with wider gaps are better:thumbup1:
  12. I have the toggle one on a bit of cord (not sure of its mane!) and its done me fine. Guess theres always room for different types of kit, but i recon your mate wont make a million out of it, but could sell a few.
  13. Very good, interesting post Steve. Although i have done an amount of woodland work, unfurtunately ive never worked any coppice woodland. I guess the soil type has a lot to do with succession of various species. The majority of woodlands i have worked in have been on "wold" soil types that are usually a maximum of 6-8inches of chailk based soil over solid chalk bed. Although oak can grow in these situations, mostly i have noticed if in competition with (especially) ash, there is a very high percentage of whips, wolves and generally supressed trees. Also, in a smaller percentage is beech in this same environment. Many thanks for the detailed reply Steve, and feel free to disect my comments:blushing:
  14. Only just found this thread and you do have some very valid points Steve, especially in your latest post about high nutrient uptake of gums. But, i noticed your comments about oak and beech; Are you saying in a mixed woodland, of the above species oak and beech will do well "underneath" as in my experience these species are the ones that suffer from being "supressed" when mixed? Just curious, perhaps i am misunderstanding your posts slightly. Pete.
  15. Ed, they are some nice Majors, i am quite jelous:thumbup1:
  16. Same here, would come in very handy. As long as its not the same place where you get that none CE marked hitch cord:sneaky2:
  17. Ok then you guys who think its straight up, how come he is selling 361c with an orange handle?
  18. Wasnt real sure about the 361, but generally all pro stuf is white handled. Just wanted it double checking really, so i guess if he is upto stuff like swapping badges, that would be enough to class him as dodgy for me:thumbdown:
  19. Just done a little googling, and the only pictures i can find of a 361c have white handles. His has orange. Anyone know if this is strange as i never had a 361 myself?
  20. If it were mine it would have been firewood before the footing was dug:blushing: Oh, sorry, i think its too close:thumbdown:
  21. Cheers David, did a syccy myself yesterday like it. Any tree with a significant lean on it deserves a dogs tooth, its a great way of setting the hinge perfectly without any panic, and most of all its a safe way of felling a leaner:001_rolleyes: P.S, how come you were limited with your escape route, I bet the was plenty of swimming room?
  22. As my mate Spikey says, get some saw pants first! You need to remember, you will get what you pay for, except, you will get more discount from a main dealer for say a stihl, than you will from B&Q for a McCulloch. Hence more saw for your money. As for the chain brake on your present saw, test it by running it at full throttle and sticking the chain brake on. If it brakes, it was no good! Oh, and as for Alder, it makes very good firewood:thumbup1:
  23. You origional idea was correct. If you do the correct dogs tooth felling cut there shouldnt be any need for straps etc. If in doubt, dont rely on a ratchet strap, get someone who can fell it for you. This is not a jibe at you Dan, but i dare say i might get a slating for sticking my neck out:blushing:

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