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Marc

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Everything posted by Marc

  1. I agree with Hama the tree could be retained by maybe reducing sail area and still keep its aesthetics, but givin the location it's not the right choice unfortunately looks like a fell is the only option, I,ve worked on much bigger trees with similar symptoms only with very few targets. As for mini trees in housing estates hell no, as far as I,m concerned we do not have enough mature trees in the urban environment, again where I am working now you will find huge much larger than your tree barely meters away from houses with the canopies spreading well over the roof tops, people can co habit with very mature trees quite well when managed and surprisingly they love them and do not look at them as threats.
  2. Wonder if an arbtalk thread would be an accepted defence in court? At the end of the day it's the targets that mean this tree should must come down, ticking time bomb isn't everything these days. Find a competent tree works company explain the situation and go with their opinion, and for god sake put them ladders away removing limbs will not help and could possibly make things worse!
  3. Nice work James.
  4. With the rope wrench does using the plates ie pressing the plates together become smoother? I remember it used to be quit harsh and jerky so smooth ascent was made by wrapping around the tongs. Also do you think it will prolong the life of the uni? As this has always been something that put me off getting one. I still want one though it's a great access tool with descent function.
  5. A revolver would probably be tidier? all these tools have there negatives, sure a hitchclimber needs the slack to be tended but has other positives, a lock jack like your finding out has it downsides to but also positives like good slack management. I think it's important with all these great tools out there to not get to caught up in the hype, just use what you enjoy most and what gives you the most efficient time in your day to day work. Of course I am very biased I love my hitch.
  6. Ditch the lock jack and use a hitchclimber:001_tt2: Sorry I can,t offer any constructive help.
  7. Never heard of a decent blower vac to date, I used to use a big billy goat but these are expensive and to be honest of limited usefulness to most users. So I,d avoid the rookie mistake of buying a blower vac and just get a decent blower preferably a back pack model which you can use to blow all detritus into an easy to deal with pile. Then again I was never a commercial gardener.
  8. Yes and no, I,d only use it on kernmantle access line of appropriate size, it's cheap enough look at beal antipodes, or I really like the sterling htp snakebite ropes very little give but just enough. Beal antipodes last time I looked could be found for around £1 a meter so you could get a 60m access line for £60. Like all things these devices respond differently to different ropes, I have an elderid eddy which on those super static globe/dyneema lines is really jerky, I,m not a fan of thos lines as they have no give what so ever although they do seem to make srt access more efficient. I have an old gri gri, cinch and eddy all work smooth on my 10mm sterling snakebite with the rads in both ascent and descent.
  9. Friction hitch cord - Treeworker.co.uk You will find what it looks like here, as to where to find it in Aus I,m not sure.
  10. Good work nev looks like a good bartletts crew there.
  11. Don,t get dis heartened, you sound like you,d make a great asset to any company.
  12. Ever heard of using a gob cut to get the trees over Steve
  13. ? Your not certified how do you mean?
  14. Distal is a bit of a pig sometimes, try either a Knute or vt. As for friction cord only you can decide really, I climb on Imori and really like op 10mm although it's not as good as it used to be longevity wise still works well and will give a few weeks hard climbing.
  15. Looks a pretty standard kit to me, where I,m working at the moment we have a merc sprinter van just to carry our climbing kits/saws as there,d be no room for chip otherwise.
  16. Size of company is not really important, aa approved means very little if anything unfortunately. Most of the companies I work/ed for have been aa approved but fairly small 3-6 guys on the tools with freelancers coming in to help when needed. Training and certification whilst important is not everything, experience is king and better than any paperwork. I,d say go for a small company if you can find one with a good group of lads one preferably that has good freelancers coming and going as they will bring in much differing experience to draw upon.
  17. Get some thin PVC tubing from a DIY store, cut the elastic to a single length not that doubled set up chuck the plastic adjuster toggles put the elastic through cut to size tubing, nice n tidy and no eye watering arse twanging. Tried without the elastic but it was not comfy.
  18. I whole heartedly agree with you, unfortunately realistically domestic clients will most of the time get quotations for free and this should include sensible advice, hence why I asked if it was commercial, and being this is a single tree.... There is work to be done on this tree so should not be a waste of time for the person taking a look. Your also right with some better pictures some here may be able to give better advice, I,m interested in the trunk and base looks like something funky is going on there, the noise is probably from one of the beech rubbing? As for felling the beech I,d hold fire until the oak is looked at more closely.
  19. YouTube it, it's also known as the yo yo technique
  20. It's like marmite.
  21. Rads is very simple, you have your single line with gri gri on, then above it a handled ascender, clipped into the top hole of the ascender a simple karabiner with pulley, the tail of the line goes from under the gri gri through the pulley. Attached to the bottom of the ascender is a foot loop you advance the ascender stand in the foot loop and pulling down on the tail of the line through the pulley will advance the gri gri. It's a stand sit affair but allows you to both ascend and decend on a single line, particularly useful in pine trees and other situations. It's also good for occasional srt access if you begin to use it a lot try to vary the leg you use as it can cause problems.
  22. I like a petzl basic myself, I hold onto the basic but others use a tether on their wrist whichs pulls the basic up the line and have both hands on the rope, I will get those pics to you gin including many of the other set-ups when I am back home as I,ve not figured out how to send pics with an iPad yet and my Internet is painfully slow. As for the kong it's a like marmite,
  23. Good advice should be free and not a few hundred quid, your not commercial are you? It's just finding an impartial arborist with sound knowledge to come round and have a look.
  24. Marc

    Base anchor

    It's just your talking about ways to improve efficiency and response times, an access line already installed is only a good thing, in an emergency I would not want to wait for a second climber to start throwing into my tree to set a line, so in my opinion an emergency line is always required vital and an important benefit of using srt so why use it to work? I was also thinking that you could choke your srt work line to the top and have a shorter tail attached to the access line making everything retrievable from the ground.
  25. Marc

    Base anchor

    Having a base anchor you can belay a climber with is a good idea, working off the srt line seems to me to be losing one of the key benefits I,e it is the access line if your using how can the second climber access the tree? If I eventually do go to srt for working positioning then I,d still use an access line then install a work line. Most climbers I work with are good at srt access and have their own srt kit so if the need ever arises they can get access to the tree as quickly as is possible, it's also very common to have 2 to 3 climbers in the tree at a time unless it's a take down

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