Marc

You kind of just explained the advantages of good application of either a HC or ART product on D'dRT. One positive I can see is the use of the pantin in this set-up as your not losing any advantage like you do with a doubled system. Yet using a pantin on its own without footloop- rope walker type system is not particularly ergonomic I did this for a year on SRT a while ago before I began to feel its negative effects. Hence I moved further away from srt working as I found working on drt more balanced and effcient over a broader range of work. But this is probably because I am used to it and know how to use it more effectively But I can see some of the advantages of SRT and really want to try again its just fine tip work and working at steep angles in relation to your anchor/s that I struggle to grasp as easier including tip work on limbs that cannot take your weight a doubled system in my head at least gives you the advantage in reducing the effort required to take in slack. Anyone want to lend me a RW I am kind of a big deal

Nice work Rich

Thats a good shout for the symptoms as after 30seconds a vacuum would be created in the fuel tank:thumbup1:

Hmm ok, shame as I tried some of the new Samson Vortex first impression is its a nice 13mm climbing that is very static with little give.

I knew you'd come around in the end:001_tt2: I have to admit the more i hear about the RW srt postioning set-up the more i'm actually intrested in trying it. Of course i'll do it with my trusty HC set-up but will probably go back to 13mm rope as I prefer the to grip this, I personally hate the small diameter lines for grip just like them as they are lighter to drag around the tree, An SRT work system though only has half the line and no running friction so why use a small diameter line is there a real advantage I am missing?

It is the be all and end all, any arborist worth his salt has one, its been in production longer than 90% of us have been arborist its always been the one saw you can call on and trust. Although the lemon ratio has increased over the years. I've had mine 2 years now and since I've had it i've rag'd it out of the box, i've cleaned the filter maybe 3 times, cleaned the saw hmmmmmm let me think once at least, the Stihl name on the sprocket cover has worn off its a totally ratty ol dog that i've just used and abused with little care and still it runs still it cuts, still I trust it to bring home the bacon. Although the carb is becoming erratic which has been it biggest achilles heal. Of course its not 10 times better than anything out there, but as a package over its long lifetime has been the be all and end all, the one saw all others aspire to be, I shall mourn its loss. With a back handle whats not to love, the same great saw for snedding and ground work.

Also fuel line damage, this can happen when conifer or something other gets into the gap, rare but can happen. How old is the saw and how much use has it seen? Crank case seals can leak also rare, but if symptoms are same with 2 different carbs you got to look along these lines as chance of 2 duff carbs are slim.

I've had dealers tell me this also, but then went to a trusted guy he got straight on the phone to stihl and told me that they said the saw will be in production alongside 201's untill the new emision regs in 2014. Funny that same dealer who told me 200t is no longer in production and that they can not get hold of any now has several in stock. Although they are selling the 201 for £25 cheaper than a 200t at a shade under £400 all in with spare chain and sharpening kit, guess they are trying to shift some units. I think its wrong to have to mod a saw to get the performance you expect and this may invalidate the warranty which with Stihl stuff is very good if the dealer is willing to play ball! I have a feeling that the 201 will see some revisions after the beta testing its now getting, which seems par for the course in this modern age.

Sometimes the boot between the carb and engine can get damage or loose you checked that?

As far as i'm aware the 200t will still be in production till 2014 so should be availible all this year and next, unless I am mis-informed

or Sailmaker's Whipping | How to make a Sailmaker's Whipping | Rope Care Knots Its not easy to do neatly you can check out mine on my quite frankly superior home made rope guide that never gets stuck! ever!

Just do what i would do and use electrical tape simples

The Sugoi is a beast I often find it to aggressive in a lot of situations, still a great pruning saw. My prefered and most used silky is the trusty Zubat 330. those Fiskars pole pruners are a good tool and take a beating, although mine finally broke, not got round to replacing them yet. And yes I also think if your using a chainsaw your going to big (unless its your tonking) besides climbing around with just a Silky is so much nicer.

Its on open forum, I think as long as we can keep it civil opinions should be expressed, and feedback given wether negative or positive. I just hope flaming ace does not think I am some holier than thou ass, because believe me I have a life membership into the tonking club and do enjoy the dark arts of ***** cutting.

Why the spikes? Sorry but I just do not get it, you posted so you obviously want feedback, but to be honest you did a simple job pretty badly and have created more of a hazard now with more expensive future maintenance for the client. You shoulda just felled it. And sorry if my comments are negative its been a long day.

Believe it or not no, BUT if we get down and one bit sticks out by 6inches the groundie gets it. Here is one of the Trainee climber/groundie doing 1000 lines as penance for not pointing out that twig that stood out at the very top. Although I like to leave future leaders thats what I call my sticky out bits.

Reduction 15% -20% Super Q and JP climbed it, no before pic which is a shame.

Its not bad, i'd only use it for SRT access. One of the nicest lines is the Sterling HTP stuff (known as snakebite in Sherrils) It very Static but still with a litttle give, unlike the Globe Dyneema which has no give what so ever, again i'd only use them as access line or for RADS type positioning. Not been following the thread to much but what do you want the Marlow for, work positioning with the RW?

Would of needed something like a 24m Teupen to do this tree viably, a 15m platform only give you 10ish meters taking into account the base of the machine being out the drop zone. After installing the ratchets I felt it was ok to carry on, any doubt I would not of done it, I have not got balls of steel I am a very steady cautious climber who is **** scared of heights and falling.

Some other random stuff

Just clearing outan SD card and found these from my phone. 1st lot is of an emergency Oak job I did in Sept last year. A little bit of history on the job, I reduce this along with Q by 30% 3 years earlier and installed a 4t cobra brace, we intially applied to fell it due to the poor union Council refused and instead reccomend the works we carried out. When I arrived one third of the crown had split out at Trifurcation point some 8m's up luckly only some minor damage to the fence, the cobra brace holding the remaining 2 stems was under tension and holding the rest of the crown up the split almost reached the ground. We had our 15m platform on site but it was way to short for this 24'ish meter tree so I braced the hell out of it with mucho ratchets and climbed it.

I've used a fake MS460 in Romania where I stubled across a couple of forresters felling and decided to show em how its really done. To be honest it was not a bad saw and obviously reliable with some care as they had beasted it for over a year, but it is not comparable to the real deal. Just in Romania or other countries like that a genuine Stihl is prohibitivly expensive so these saws are attractive, the average wage is still £250 a month at best.

I don't get this thread... Why make life harder for yourself? If you really want to do all this work positioning stuff (never use a saw one handed...) then just use both hands on the topper. It's called the arborist/climbing saw for a reason. It's not that it's really bad or anything but I just feel it could be better and it's just something else to try! I was using my mates 346xpg (toastie warm hands ) today and it's an awesome saw for sectioning down a lot faster than the 200t but it was oak! I think i will switch saws for the moment and see if it suites my style more! I am one of those guys wo would prefer to ditch the 200T as soon as possible on a sectional fell, a more powerfull back handle saw is much quicker and easier on you with less vibration. An ms 361 is a nice saw got enough poke to handle an 18" bar or 20" at a stretch and not to heavy, but still my prefered choice is a MS460 or Husky 372

I'm a real fan of this type of treatment, we used to look after the grounds of a college near here which was once a grand house with impressive landscaped gardens home to many great Cedars, Oaks and Beech everything was muclhed around 10+ years ago with mulch circles extending to at least the drip zone, at first removing the formal lawn under the trees was not liked but given time it now looks great and most do not realise that it was once lawn right upto the trunks. I'm sceptical about Mycor treatments and fertalising. On your site Milly the grass and years of animal grazing compressing the root plates and damaging the base of trees has not helped matters reducing the trees vigour and hindering their chance at keeping pathogens at bay.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0007VKDIQ/ref=asc_df_B0007VKDIQ6347090?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B0007VKDIQ This works well,