Marc
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Everything posted by Marc
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Its been a while, thought i'd post some pics of my recent work. Some Scot pine fells, pretty big trees over 20m to the first branch all leaning slightly twisted which makes spiking errr fun, climbed some straight felled some others, the pictures do not do the trees justice or show how tight some of the fells were as no damage could be done other than a few divets in the ol turf.
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Looks dodgy that job, that lanyard looks thin Also the Pop crane job pics won't show for me "unsupported file format"
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Good stuff Nick
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I was joking about buying a Stihl. Those Stihls going down could of been for many reasons, Huskys are great saws, if i had to by my own saw it would probably be a 357 or 372. If i had to buy a saw for employees to use it would probably be a Stihl they just seem to take indifferent use better than a husky. Without knowing the history of your saw you will probably never know what caused the clutch bell to fail, at least it was an economic repair and you should still get plenty more hours out of that saw.
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I only work for Heritage as a self employed climber, i do know the trees came straight from European supplier I think it was Holland thats it.
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Holy moly thats your problem for sure, run the chain tight? how old is the saw? Doubt its a grease problem although it hards to tell how worn the needle bearing is - to much heat, lack of chain oil badly worn sprocket, over tensioned chain (see this a lot). Shoulda bought a Stihl:001_tt2:
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32 Tilia cordata i believe.
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It may of been possible that you just never found the sweet spot with the Magic? and the Motion just worked for you out the box, i think a lot of these modern harness can be made to be comfy for most with patience setting them up. I find the back support a little low on the Motion a few climbers i know think the motion is aggrevating their back, mine started to get a little strained, I,ve since adjusted it and it seem my back has improved. Basically my point is a poorly fitted harness can strain your back they are adjustable for a reason.
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For the ascent and to work off on my way up, once at the top i,ll switch to a normal system, occasionally if its major deadwood or partial crown lift something simple i can do the whole job off the Rads. The rope walker its much quicker and effcient, yet works best when hanging clear of obstructions so you can shoot up, big trees like this do not come up often. The Rads works best if you can touch the stem or other branches to ease your way up, with srt its nice to not have to isolate a limb, using a single line you have more throw line placing options. The rope can be left in place for rescue or second climber, other than that its much like climbing on a D,dRT system with say a pantin really. Rads with a footloop!
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Its a 20inch Vermeer, the front mounted Ducker was for another company i worked for thats a cool rig to more of a do it all rig but limited in some situation. This is an old planting job done 3 or more years ago, you can see the final results 2 years after planting.
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Footlocking is worth knowing, like all things there is a bad way to footlock and a good way, good technique will reduce stress on knees, back and arms. I still footlock now and again but SRT most trees using rads 90% of the time, tree walker on the rare long free hanging ascents.
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Looked good to me to as a re-pollard, hard to just shape from camera angle, didn,t look perfect but it may of been angle. Its a Lime it,ll come back and given that its in Europe where often the tree work is sometimes different but not necesarily wrong to what we would do.
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That makes more sense because rapid its not!
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A cinch just works better on a single line (srt) as hitches do not perform well when taking 100% of the load hence that fig 8/revolver trick. Yes the prussik is load bearing its only used to adjust round the limb you want to anchor to, to save side loading the karabiner say if just just choked it to the stem without the mini prussik. I then attach the cinch to my bridge and use the whole length of my line as a second single leg/line tie in point using the cinch as the adjuster. It just means you get to use more of the line. For example you lanyard is 3-4m your only ever getting a max of 2m useable line when connected to your side D,s, with the set-up i,m using i get 8m 4 times as much. Most of the time the tail stays tucked away in my hip bag and i rarely use it but when i do,,, it can make life so much easier.
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I use a cinch (type of ascending descending grab) on my lanyard, my lanyard is 10mm ocean poly 9m long, near the karabiner i have a small (tiny!) prussik this way i can cinch round stems without side loading the karabiner which is bad. In this config i then have an 8m long sinle line, I keep the tailexcess of my lanyard in a small hip bag on my left.
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ok Rupe i'll refer to D'dRT as such to avoid confusion i just get lazy and type drt.[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyXwrXgN0qw]YouTube - the F8 revolver[/ame] Here is a video of the Fig 8 Revolver from the picture is use, although i think the Fig 8 can lead to confusion it works perfectly well with a large ring like the ART ring its not really intended for D'dRT. Rads stands for Rapid Ascending and Descending System i think, although i don't find it particularly rapid.
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[ame= ] [/ame] Been posted before, its still an intresting method, also look at the DLRW 2 video.
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I prefer to footlock the tail of my line rather than use a pantin, i also find it more comfortable and slightly more ergonomic as using just your right or left foot can get tiring, the other benfit is you always have your feet a pantin you have to attach and leave on. Using a Ropeguide and hitchclimber with vt/knute can improve your climbing. At he end of the day these fancy gadgets are only as good as the climber using them, I work with climbers still on prussiks that are better than me its down to experience.
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Fig8 or Big ring from a cambium saver, sling and revolver karabiner. Its not the easiest ascending system that i've tried although i'm sure it could be done better than the way i did it. The main benefit is this is a system you can use with minimal extra kit and work the canopy with on srt if you so wish.
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Its a single line he has it on not drt, just not worth the hassle on a drt system imo. I tend to not worry to much its rare you'll get a massive descent, modern hitch cords being tougher etc the reletive cheapness of cord, i just descend and take it easy on long descents. The revolver technique with a ring would work and its worth trying, always good to try these things.
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The pic you've posted is just a technic to descend/ascend on a hitch in a single line config and work the tree on a single line. Your not actually using the fig 8, you could just use a big ring its the combo of ring and revolver which buffer the load to the hitch for single line use. There is imo no benefit using this set-up with D'dRT and i doubt it would save your hitch much maybe a little but barely worth it.
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I wouldn't use Elderid power static it has a thin outer mantle and most if not all of the strength is in the core, its also not very supple. Use a dedicated semi-static climbing rope with a thicker out core better suited to abrasion (I'm no expert though so i may be wrong this is just my limited understanding) and also load bearing along with the core. Most climbing ropes will work with a Lockjack, but i've heard Yale XTC works particularly well as does Samson Arbormaster, or for thinner rope try New England Tachyon. I don't use a Lockjack myself though prefer a Hitchclimber and knot for better control, the LJ is a good tool though and i'm sure someone will will give other suggestions.
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The Tree Austria 3 doesn't look to good to me but i've never tried one, liked the original the best, no. 2 was a dissapointment. The EKN which i think now has some new harnesses out? Tree Motion also the Petzl Seqouia are very good modern harnesses. I'd like to try a Seqouia SRT out somtime
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From memory Steve now has a Petzl Seqouia? The EKN seems to be liked by larger climbers, although i knew a big chap who had a treemagic and loved it, its a personal choice. You can not compare a Treemagic to a Weaver or Willans. I do not judge harnesses by how flimsy or tough they are, its how it feels when i climb thats important to me as long as i get at least a good year climbing out of a harness I am happy. Had my Treemagic a year still has plenty of life left, been climbing on a treemotion though for the last 18 months.
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Lombardy popular job, 2 of the trees had extensive decay in the base and at previous pruning points, along with previous failure. Complete removal and future replant. One Silver Birch removal to, we did well to complete this in a day with a 4 man team.
